is it ok to use 1200 or 2000 wet sandpaper on a shaft??

B

bbb

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i am not a cue maker
in the pool room yesterday i saw a player do that to clean his shaft
he told me used 1200 because that was the highest grit he could get
but now he found some 2000 so he is using that to clean it after use
or to make it feel smooth when it gets alittle sticky
i guess to him its like using Q-wiz
is it ok to do that???
will over time it thin out the shaft??
thanks for your replies
 
1200 grit, scotchbright pads, or any abrasive will indeed over time whittle down a shaft. Clean hands and a dry towel are the answer. Removing chalk from tip and using a clean case will help. Stay away from sandpaper period. Matt D.
 
Know this isn't my thread, but thought it may add some value for the Op also. Same question for magic eraser. Magic eraser seems to work great, but I question whether it removes wood similar to sandpaper. Or is it a better answer? Thanks.
 
DJ14.1 said:
Know this isn't my thread, but thought it may add some value for the Op also. Same question for magic eraser. Magic eraser seems to work great, but I question whether it removes wood similar to sandpaper. Or is it a better answer? Thanks.
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It does not remove wood, it is melamine foam that breaks down before wood does.

To bbb, don't use sandpaper unless you want a toothpick shaft.
 
You could use very fine sandpaper occasionally. Maybe when the tip is changed. Daily use, no. Be aware that melamine sponges open the grain.
 
Larry,

Let the guy ruin his shaft with the sand paper, it will. New shafts have a finish and require a little use to break in. Using sand paper of any kind removes some of that finish and glazed feeling. It will remove some finish, if not now, soon, and open pores which allows moisture in. Sand paper and moisture are the biggest enemies of a shaft.

If your shaft starts to feel tacky, rub it up and down vigorously with a very soft DRY fine terry cloth towel. Then take a fresh new dollar bill and rub it vigorously up and down the shaft. This will transfer some of the silicon from the dollar bill to the shaft whicjh will feel amazingly silky. I also have a small piece of dry vegetable tanned lether to use rubbing the shaft.

Never let sand paper of any kind near your cue.

If anyone disputes this, the source from which I optained this information is Ernie Gutierrez, in person and it used to come in writing when you odered a cue direct from him.

Anyone with a nice cue wanting the blue removed from the shaft is best served sendng the shaft to the maker for a quick clean. It is not a big deal.

BR,
Phil
 
Using 2000 grit paper would take about 6 lifetimes to make any noticeable difference.

I don't do it because it's not necessary, but I'm just sayin'.
 
If your advice is to use the very fine sandpaper because the very fine grain will not matter then you are missing the point that breaking the seal, which was Ernie's key point, will allow moistureto reach the shaft. This may result in problems. But hey, just saying...he has only been at it 50 years...right?:thumbup:
 

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Yes you can use sandpaper on your shaft, but it will wear the shaft down, and the sanding will just open the pores in the wood, making your shaft dirty again faster.
Get your shaft cleaned and sealed and use a damp cloth once in a while.
Those packs with the small plasting sanding thingies are also fine :)
 
phil dade said:
Never let sand paper of any kind near your cue.

If anyone disputes this, the source from which I optained this information is Ernie Gutierrez, in person and it used to come in writing when you odered a cue direct from him.

Anyone with a nice cue wanting the blue removed from the shaft is best served sendng the shaft to the maker for a quick clean. It is not a big deal.
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How do cuemakers, say Ernie, clean shafts ?

Dave
 
phil dade said:
If your advice is to use the very fine sandpaper because the very fine grain will not matter then you are missing the point that breaking the seal, which was Ernie's key point, will allow moistureto reach the shaft. This may result in problems. But hey, just saying...he has only been at it 50 years...right?:thumbup:
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Can you scan (take pictures) and post the whole instructions please? There is some very good information. Thank you.
 
You really want to read a lot of threads regarding "shaft maintenance" or somesuch :thumbup:
Having a microfibre cloth while playing (and using it) helps a lot. Also use search team "renaissance wax".

Cheers!
 
M.G. said:
You really want to read a lot of threads regarding "shaft maintenance" or somesuch :thumbup:
Having a microfibre cloth while playing (and using it) helps a lot. Also use search team "renaissance wax".

Cheers!
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Ahhh, Renaissance Wax. Yep. Said it a hundred times. IMO it's the best compound as the final step finishing a shaft and for maintenance. It works great on every part of the cue as well. (including leather and linen). Minus the tip of course..:)

Non proffesionals should never use sand paper... I don't like an extremely dirty shaft but a little "patina" is actually a good thing...
 
AlexandruM said:
Can you scan (take pictures) and post the whole instructions please? There is some very good information. Thank you.
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Please see my post # 7. This is about all he says to do, otherwise send to him. I doubt that he would elaborate more as the rest is up to the professional.
 
DaveK said:
How do cuemakers, say Ernie, clean shafts ?

Dave
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I do not know, but mine have been cleaned, when needed, by the maker. Proficient Billiards or a competent maker surely coud do the job. I prefer to have the same set of hands always attend to the cue, providing they still can. Pete Tascarella handles my Frank Paradise which I continue to "go to".
 
Thomas Wayne said:


Ernie cleans shafts the same way Chuck Norris does - they glance at the shaft and the dirt jumps off and runs for its life.

TW
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Great post TW. Your work is legendary and as with any cue, the attention is drawn to the butt. However, I am certain that anyone that is so precise, so demanding on workmanship puts as much attention into the precision of the shaft. Shafts are just not as exciting and do not allow as much creativity. What are your thoughts on someone using sandpaper on one of your shafts?

Thanks,
Phil
 
1200 grit is too rough.....1500 is barely adequate.....

I use Croakus cloth and also 2500 grit sandpaper I special order........2000 grit is readily available..... I also use Craftsman Cue Wax..... it reseals the wood and renders the shafts smooth as glass.......my Runde Schon is 30 years old and the shafts on that cue....and all my others as well......are better than new.......I even do this to shafts on my "brand new:" custom cues. All my cue shafts are straight and in amazing condition.

Local players in Fresno ask me to refinish their cue shafts because after they view and touch my cues' shafts, they want the same thing.....there isn't a nick, ding, scuff, scrape, rough or sticky or uneven spot or point anywhere on my cues shafts....Craftsman Cue Wax is the secret. I also leather burnish the shafts periodically as needed.....when you know what you doing, you will always have cue shafts others will envy just like I mine are.

Matt B.
 
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phil dade said:
If your advice is to use the very fine sandpaper because the very fine grain will not matter then you are missing the point that breaking the seal, which was Ernie's key point, will allow moistureto reach the shaft. This may result in problems. But hey, just saying...he has only been at it 50 years...right?:thumbup:
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Phil, It absolutely AMAZES me that there are still those out there that don't get it even when it's right in front of their face in black and white..lmao

Many moons ago I used to think that using varying abrasive levels of crokus cloth was the answer until I realized that some of the abrasive was embedding itself in the shaft wood.. I was told then not to use it and I thought I knew better.. Ruined a couple nice shafts..
 
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