Isoplast 202
- Thread starter Mase
- Start date
I have been researching this material and waiting for return calls from plastics cos. Hopefully someone has it in stock. My current ferrule material ends up cracking. Looking for something better. Will let you know if I can find it.
I have been using Tomahawk for 3 or 4 years now. Shafts come back to me with radial cracks and splits below the tips. I have built cues for 40 years. Never had this problem. At first I loved the Tomahawk. Didn't want to mention the name, but you forced me to.
That is surprising to hear, and something I have never heard before. Tomahawk and Isoplast are essentially "cousin plastics" with Isoplast being slightly "lighter," and Tomahawk being slightly "stronger." In both instances, I do mean VERY slight differences.
Do you mind me asking where you purchased the material?
My friend John Pador ordered it for me on AZ. Last purchase for me was 8 ft. I am down to 1 ft. left. First purchase was for 3 sizes. I have used it for ferrules, joints, and buttcaps.
I haven't given up on it yet. I really do like it. Trying a different method of ibstallation. I still have Westinghouse Micarta which is the best material I have ever used.
I appreciate your response, and candor. The reason I ask, is because the material is designed to specifically resist impact, and stress. It should ribbon when you cut it. When I owned the material, I was cutting a piece of 3/4 inch Tomahawk rod, with a 12 inch compound miter saw. The blade of my saw actually yanked the piece of Tomahawk out of my hand, slamming the material into the back metal guard of my saw. That "plastic" rod actually broke my metal saw guard
without taking damage. Obviously there can always be "bad" batches of anything, but knowing this material as I do, it leads me to serious questions. I do sincerely appreciate your time. I would encourage you to reach out to Kelly, and purchase directly from him. Thank you again for supporting the material. If I can ever be of service, or answer any questions, please feel free to reach out.My very best regards.
Joe P
I have had bad luck cutting small round stock on the miter saw also. Dangerous. I bought some cue ferrule king from Warther. May be the ferrules that went bad were this material. Looks the same as Tomahawk. I am always willing to try a new material, and will continue searching for this Isoplast 202. I had never heard of it till this thread. Might be good, but not willing to pay for a run just to test it. Thank you very much. Roger Pettit.I appreciate your response, and candor. The reason I ask, is because the material is designed to specifically resist impact, and stress. It should ribbon when you cut it. When I owned the material, I was cutting a piece of 3/4 inch Tomahawk rod, with a 12 inch compound miter saw. The blade of my saw actually yanked the piece of Tomahawk out of my hand, slamming the material into the back metal guard of my saw. That "plastic" rod actually broke my metal saw guard
My very best regards.
Joe P
I have never had anyone contact me regarding split or cracked Tomahawk ferrules (except one person who confused a deep scratch from a tip pik with a crack). I have never had any myself and I install a lot on my own shafts I build, all uncapped. Prior to coming to market, Tomahawk was tested with 3/8" tenons and uncapped, including jumping and breaking. No failures.
Obviously if the wall is thin enough, anything will fail. Did you install it as a super thin walled sleeved ferrule for low deflection? Was the tip worn down to a thin wafer?
If you mixed the material I sell with something else that looked the same and don't know for sure which is which, all bets are sort of off.
Regarding the hazards of cutting small round stock with a saw, it often happens when one tries to cut more than 1 or two pieces at the same time. If you let the rod roll/rotate any, that is when it will get jerked. You have to keep a firm grip on each piece and ease the saw into it best you can. A finer toothed blade is always better for this type of cutting. A big miter blade with relatively few teeth and deep gullets the worse.
I did mix Tomahawk with cue ferrule king. So I can't be sure which failed. From now on the cfk is on the shelf. Thanks for your input. Roger Pettit
I am curious as to which type of glue you recommend for installing ferrule. I use Novus 2 fine scratch remover to put a great shine on the finished ferrule.
I would like to add that YOU MUST wait until the blade STOPS COMPLETELY before raising the blade up. While still spinning, the teeth can catch on the material and kick it out. I’ve had it happen and still haven’t found that cutoff!
I thread all of my ferrules with live tooling (except repairs when I am matching a current configuration). With good threads, nearly any glue is suitable IMO.
I have used various slow setting epoxies (west system, total boat, Raka, etc) for installing ferrules, all with success, so I won't recommend any particular brand over the other. On the rare occasion when I do a replacement and the customer is waiting I use Loctite 5 minute...which is more like 20 minutes to me.
I think I will try out the Novus 2, thanks for sharing.
I have been using titebond polyurethane for ferrules. Concerned expansion while curing cracked them as they seem to crack in the middle and not ends.
I have never heard of anyone using a poly glue for ferrules. Cracking in the middle certainly supports the theory that glue expansion caused it. Were they capped without a glue relief hole? Or was it screwed on and the tip installed right away before it could expand out of a capped glue relief hole?
I believe a ferrule cracking in the middle as a result of impacts (as in hitting balls) is astronomically improbable. I have never seen that at least.
Have you ever thought about using EPOXY?
Learn about it, Good stuff!
I have been using acra weld for years. I better stick with that. Thanks