Ivory ferrule stains.

[Mensabum]

Hello cuemaking warriors.
Question....
I install my own tips by hand.
Recently removed a tip that was black all the way thru. Some of the black dust got on my ferrule and when I applied sil kleen, the black color seemed to sink into the grain of the ivory and I can't get it out.
I tried 3000, 4 diff cleaners, even a touch of bleach, all in vain.
Have any of you experienced this and what did you do to clean your ferrule??
Tia!!

 

[garczar]

Hello cuemaking warriors.
Question....
I install my own tips by hand.
Recently removed a tip that was black all the way thru. Some of the black dust got on my ferrule and when I applied sil kleen, the black color seemed to sink into the grain of the ivory and I can't get it out.
I tried 3000, 4 diff cleaners, even a touch of bleach, all in vain.
Have any of you experienced this and what did you do to clean your ferrule??
Tia!!

if it got into the pores/fiber its probably not going anywhere. just call me debbie downer.

 

[GBCues]

The traditional way is
1) wrap the end of the ferrule with painter's tape before doing any work on the ferrule
and
2) spin it in the lathe and blow out the black dust with compressed air.
But it sounds like you've already pressed the black dust down into the pores, you don't have a lathe and I'll guess you don't have compressed air. A can of compressed air may or may not have enough pressure.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Hello cuemaking warriors.
Question....
I install my own tips by hand.
Recently removed a tip that was black all the way thru. Some of the black dust got on my ferrule and when I applied sil kleen, the black color seemed to sink into the grain of the ivory and I can't get it out.
I tried 3000, 4 diff cleaners, even a touch of bleach, all in vain.
Have any of you experienced this and what did you do to clean your ferrule??
Tia!!

Are you 100% sure?
I'll be the first to admit I haven't seen it all.
A closeup sharp picture may help.

 

[Mensabum]

if it got into the pores/fiber its probably not going anywhere. just call me debbie downer.

Was afraid of that.
Would rather pull the bandaid off than pussy foot around wasting my time trying bullshit remedies.

 

[Mensabum]

The traditional way is
1) wrap the end of the ferrule with painter's tape before doing any work on the ferrule
and
2) spin it in the lathe and blow out the black dust with compressed air.
But it sounds like you've already pressed the black dust down into the pores, you don't have a lathe and I'll guess you don't have compressed air. A can of compressed air may or may not have enough pressure.

I've got a compressor w attachments, but never thot about trying to blow it out.
Thanks for the tip!!
I remove the tape after rough shaping, then wear gloves for the final shape and burnish.
Might have to change my routine. I just admit in all my tears of installing tips, this is the first time anything like this has happened.
I wish I knew what tip that was so I could warn the old school guys to be careful.
My biggest mistake was getting moisture on the ferrule B4 removing all the dust and debris. Never make that mistake again.
I'll see if I can get some pics up.
Btw...
Lathe is on my list. Looking for a used cuesmith or thereabouts.
Thanks again for the reply.

 

[muskyed]

I usually wax the ferrule first then some scotch tape before cutting off the tip. the wax seems to seal it first so it stays clean. I use triple EEE polishing wax. has a very fine polishing compound in it. I get it at woodturning supply stores. One container will last me a lifetime. I guess you could use a polishing car wax also. I also use the triple EEE after installing to clean it up and shine the side of the tip. I also first use a q tip with some seal coat on the side of the tip then wax. It's simple and works for me, professionals may have a better way but mine works with what I have in the shop.

 

[Mensabum]

I usually wax the ferrule first then some scotch tape before cutting off the tip. the wax seems to seal it first so it stays clean. I use triple EEE polishing wax. has a very fine polishing compound in it. I get it at woodturning supply stores. One container will last me a lifetime. I guess you could use a polishing car wax also. I also use the triple EEE after installing to clean it up and shine the side of the tip. I also first use a q tip with some seal coat on the side of the tip then wax. It's simple and works for me, professionals may have a better way but mine works with what I have in the shop.

I use Renaissance Wax.
Never use car wax or any of those. I like the scotch tape idea. Thin.
I bought a tip kit. One of those Chinese does ten things in one small package deals, but it did have some excellent tape in it. Very thin masking tape. Been using that.
Something cathartic about shaping your own tips.
I'll spend a good hour on mine.
The only thing I burnish with is spit or tap water and leather. I usually buff it 3 times to get a good glass-like burnish on the sides. I use Hard tips, so Shroomin' don't occur. I never have to deal with it.
I managed to upload a pic for ya.9

 

[Rodney]

That’s not ivory, you can clearly see the weave…looks like ivorine 3 and is usually porous.

 

[Mensabum]

That’s not ivory, you can clearly see the weave…looks like ivorine 3 and is usually porous.

Knew I needed my glasses!!
I put it under UV and it looked like the good stuff. Glad it's not!!
Why would anyone use porous material for ferrules??
I'm not a cuemaker and my knowledge on this is limited.
Put it in a gnat's ass and it'll rattle like a BB in a boxcar!!

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

"Why would anyone use porous material for ferrules??"

Not all ferrule material is created equal. Most with linen in it is needed to be sealed immediately after the final cut.
And possibly a few times through its life span.

As pointed out...
Definitely not ivory. When you mentioned it had swarf in the pits I figured it probably was not.
If you want to keep the ferrule the same size you may need to change it and start over.
I've come close with cleaning products but have never been able to get them 100% after they get infected.
However, there may be another secret out there that I haven't stumbled across yet.

Good luck

 

[Ģüśţāṿ]

I've had some success with magic eraser and denatured alcohol, just depends on how deep the dust goes.

 

[garczar]

I've had some success with magic eraser and denatured alcohol, just depends on how deep the dust goes.

My Schon shaft has these ivorine/melamine ferrules and i use this method. ME and 90%alc. works fine.

 

[Rodney]

Years ago I had some nice clean LBM ferrule material. When I ran out and re ordered the batch was similar to this, full of pits. When finishing or sanding I always sealed them first. Since then I’ve changed to a different material.

 

[Mensabum]

"Why would anyone use porous material for ferrules??"

Not all ferrule material is created equal. Most with linen in it is needed to be sealed immediately after the final cut.
And possibly a few times through its life span.



View attachment 879610



As pointed out...
Definitely not ivory. When you mentioned it had swarf in the pits I figured it probably was not.
If you want to keep the ferrule the same size you may need to change it and start over.
I've come close with cleaning products but have never been able to get them 100% after they get infected.
However, there may be another secret out there that I haven't stumbled across yet.

Good luck

Thanks for the info!!
Best sealer?? Wax or ??

 

[Mensabum]

I've had some success with magic eraser and denatured alcohol, just depends on how deep the dust goes.

I'll try it.

 

[Mensabum]

My Schon shaft has these ivorine/melamine ferrules and i use this method. ME and 90%alc. works fine.

I thot somebody might have the solution to this. Too many cues have these type ferrules for there not to be a recipe.
Thanks Garczar!!

 

[Mensabum]

"Why would anyone use porous material for ferrules??"

Not all ferrule material is created equal. Most with linen in it is needed to be sealed immediately after the final cut.
And possibly a few times through its life span.



View attachment 879610



As pointed out...
Definitely not ivory. When you mentioned it had swarf in the pits I figured it probably was not.
If you want to keep the ferrule the same size you may need to change it and start over.
I've come close with cleaning products but have never been able to get them 100% after they get infected.
However, there may be another secret out there that I haven'

Years ago I had some nice clean LBM ferrule material. When I ran out and re ordered the batch was similar to this, full of pits. When finishing or sanding I always sealed them first. Since then I’ve changed to a different material.

Sealer??
t stumbled across yet.

Good luck