Ivory vs Cue Ball Ferrule .and other ferrules....was capped or collared joint

qguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I might as well make a new thread, since the capped vs collared joint thread went to become a ferrule discussion

I would like to inform the readers that this is BASED on my own experiments and experiences. I dont have as much credentials compared to the other members of this board, but I started playing about 18-20 years ago and started playing and collecting locally made (Philippine made) cues since 1998

also in all of the experiments cues that I have tested, I only use Blue Diamond TIP


Ivory vs Cue Ball Ferrule

One of my older playing cues has Cue ball ferrule, I had played with this cue for about 2 years. I also have several other cues with Ivory ferrules. Since it would be very hard to compare 2 different ferrules using different shafts and butts and tips... I decided to make an experiment. we would remove the old Cue ball ferrule from my cue and make an exact replica of it made from ivory. The Diameter would be the same, the height of the solid core on top of the ferrule would also be the same. We would also use the same Tip...NOT the same brand of tip but the OLD tip that the old shaft had. We even used the same brand/type of glue to glue the tip to the ferrule. Basically the only difference from the old cue would be the Ivory material....

So whats the verdict....

It hits the same, the sound is the same, I could not see, hear or feel any difference between the CB ferrule and Ivory ferrule

So why use Ivory ?, well it looks better than any other ferrule that I had used, your cue has "higher resale value". It does not turn yellow as much as cue ball ferrule (it changes color but not as much as the CB ferrule)

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IVORY vs IVORENE / Phenolic Fibre Board AKA "PIBRA" in the Philippines

I seldom use my cue with the AEGIS ferrule due to the sound/hit that the cue produces, it has a very "HARD" hitting sound compared to the Ivory ferrule, this is very evident when you make a miscue.

The Pibra (Phenolic Fibre Board) pretty much has the same hit/sound/feel as the AEGIS ferrule


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Buffalo horn ferrule

Well my second favorite ferrule material (I guess you know which is my favorite :-)

Well its color Black, takes a very high shine, its a very light material (weight not color, remember its black) and its very very strong when age properly. (age the horn for at least a year before using, or it will shrink !!!)...One of my break cue uses this ferrule. One of my old playing cues uses this ferrule too and its 11.00 mm (yes that 11.00 mm) and I break with it ( how strong do I break ?, to give you an idea, well I dont break like a girl, BUT ONCE and only ONCE on a new table, new felt I pocketed 6 balls plus the cue ball :-)

I also use this material for Joints and Butt caps.....Richard Black a custom cue maker from the US uses it too....
 
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im using an ivory ferrule, im thinking of getting an ivor-x, some people say its great. also, i have a brunswick tip, it sometimes miscue, but i think it depends on the chalk 'tisa'.
what chalk do you use? what's the best chalk out there? im using a brown master premium (20 pesos each) not the one you could get for 9 pesos only.
 
There are two ways of putting ferrule - one that caps the shaft, and one that is slipped through the shaft. With the latter, you will see the wood being the core and the ferrule being the outer ring when installing the tip.

This is not anymore merely decorative. There are two functions of the ferrule - one is structural, and the other is for weight distribution. Structurally, it keeps the shaft from shredding apart due to the impact it is subjected to. Some folks are finicky about their cue weight distribution, and this is where they start being selective with the ferrule material. But without esthetics being considered, metal alloy material can even be used (as it is used in snooker). In fact, if you try wetting the ferrule of some taiwanese cues, you will find out that they melt away because they are made of laminated pulp.
 
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