can anyone help tell me about joints and their feel. i was looking around online and saw some joints with a 5/16 14 piloted ss joint. i was wondering about what kind of hit this puts out and how is this different than a regular ss joint. also what is the deal with a wood to wood joint with a radial pin. ive been hearing this helps create a more consistent hit. also i have seen a couple cues with a flat faced joint, what is this really?? somebody help explain this to me...........
joint question
- Thread starter pooljunkie0082
- Start date
pooljunkie0082 said:
Heres what I know about joints and this info comes from Jim Buss, a well known cue maker. Flat Face Wood to Wood joint, you get the most feedback. Ivory jointed cues will absord some feedback and SS joints absorbs all feedback. The pin has nothing to do with the hit/feel of the cue. Its just there to hold the cue together. The hit/feel of the cue is mostly from the way the shaft is tapered. To get a more consistent hit, you should try out hard hitting cues with a stiff taper like a SouthWest. Some players like it and some dont. Hope that helps.
a "regular" SS joint IS piloted.
"consistant hit" with a radial pin is sales point hype. a radial pin makes a snug fit. it MIGHT hit "better", but it's no more consistant than any other.
a flat face joint is exactly that. both halves of the joint are flat and are in full contact with each other when the cue is put together.
"consistant hit" with a radial pin is sales point hype. a radial pin makes a snug fit. it MIGHT hit "better", but it's no more consistant than any other.
a flat face joint is exactly that. both halves of the joint are flat and are in full contact with each other when the cue is put together.
would a jacoby be in this class of hard hitting cues.dooziexx said:
I don't think so. They are in the skinny side.pooljunkie0082 said:
what is in the skinny side????????Joseph Cues said:
T
THE SILENCER
Guest
two opinions, first mine, phenlonic(plastic) joints, give a quiet, nice soft pastel type hit, with fedback all the way down to the butt cap. i personally prefer and use phenlonic joints. stainless steel, has a much more solid harsh deliberate hit. less feedback in the grip hand. i prefer and use stainless steel joints on my break cue. now here is joeseph franke of new york, soon to be famous cue maker, has to say. phenlonic joints only, with a titanium huge pin. he say's zero weight in the middle, makes for a perfect cue. you could find his "one-of-a-kind" cues, which are full spliced and a production of only 8 a year, in the new 3rd. edition of the blue book, under joeseph full splice cues.
C
CueDealer
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"now here is joeseph franke of new york, soon to be famous cue maker, has to say".
Hope his eyes are better than Anne Franke's. If not, I see why he only makes 8 cues per year.
CueDealer
Hope his eyes are better than Anne Franke's. If not, I see why he only makes 8 cues per year.
CueDealer
I used to think all cue joints played the same. I was dead wrong. I've tried the same shaft on different butts, with different joint collar types. Big difference. Not sure if the difference is just the joint collar, or also depends on the butt wood type. Probably a bit of everything.
Most of the difference I can personally detect, is in the sound. I really don't feel much of a difference, but I can definitely hear it. I've tried plastic, steel, ivory, and wood-wood joints. Since so many players use a predator shaft and a medium-hard layered tip, you can easily compare different cues with what is essentially the same shaft.
Most of the difference I can personally detect, is in the sound. I really don't feel much of a difference, but I can definitely hear it. I've tried plastic, steel, ivory, and wood-wood joints. Since so many players use a predator shaft and a medium-hard layered tip, you can easily compare different cues with what is essentially the same shaft.
from many years of cue repair and playing i will try to lend some knowledge about the joint question.......first i will start with flat face joints....depending if it is steel or phenolic.....steel will keep the transfer of vibration to a very minimal.....in other words no feel in the back hand....with true to life wood to wood joints where there is only a pin holding the cue together you get more feedback in the back hand....with piloted steel joints you always hear they hit hard,this is really a myth,it is just that you get no feedback past the joint.....with ivory i was told by a great cuemaker that ivory and wood have such similar characteristics that there is not much difference......with the use of phenolics you still get feed back,maybe a little dampened but much more than steel.......so the only difference is that steel doesnt allow any transfer of vibration where all other materials allows varied amounts of feedback to the back hand.......the main use of the phenolic rings in the joint is just for structural re-inforcement and nothing more......juston coleman