jump/break question

trustyrusty

trustyrusty

I'm better with a wedge!
Silver Member
I have a sneaky that I'd like made into a jump/break, and was wondering what it would cost? It has a 3/8-10 pin at the joint, but I was thinking of maybe a j&j type quick-release....? et me know if there's a better choice, or anything else I might want to consider. BTW, I'm going to try one of the Tiger Icebreaker tips on this too.
 
What could be better than the original Uni-Loc quick release pin?

They cost more but if cost is a factor just us a 3/8 x 10 pin instead.
After all, how many time per game will you break it down?
 
Thanks guys, that's why posted....if Uni-lock is the way to go, then so be it. I'll see if I can post a pic of the cue (or a stock pic), and maybe someone could let me know how (and whereabouts on the cue) the new joint would look. Thanks again.
 
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Here is one that I did back in April. Maybe you missed it.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=95215

The 'forearm' on your cue is particularly long with the points ending at about the mid-point of the handle. The cut would be made 5/16" below the bottom of the points with a 1/4" black collar on either side of the cut. Please be mindful that the Uni-Loc set will add approx. 1oz of wght. This can be compensated for by removing approx. 1oz of wght. from the butt by changing the wght. bolt. I've done several Predator BKs this way also.
 
KJ Cues said:
My bid is $75 + s/h and that's using Uni-Loc. Work guaranteed. KJ
Click to expand...

Ya aint gonna find quality work any cheaper than this.

Doing a good job of cutting and rejoining the butt and gtting it to match up is not easy.
KJ is more than up to the task and for what he is charging to install a REAL Uni-Loc quick release pin I would have the cue in the mail TODAY!
(if I were you) ... :o
 
That's the WRONG cue to make a jump/break from, in my opinion. Your jump section will be TOO LONG (unless you cut it in the middle of the points) and TOO HEAVY. (metal joint)
Your best bet would be a separate jump cue.
Next best, a cue designed as a jump/break, or a better cue to turn into one.
 
i have aluminum 3/8-10 quick release pins for j/b's that require no insert.i really like them better that the uni-loc setup and switched completely over.the pins are the .308" minor 3/8-10 with about 4-5 threads and then a barrel on the top with no threads.they screw up and unscrew very fast,and i like the solidness of the 3/8-10 without an insert in a j/b.the pins are $10 and i have them in plain aluminum and anodized gold aluminum.
 
Sheldon said:
That's the WRONG cue to make a jump/break from, in my opinion. Your jump section will be TOO LONG (unless you cut it in the middle of the points) and TOO HEAVY. (metal joint)
Your best bet would be a separate jump cue.
Next best, a cue designed as a jump/break, or a better cue to turn into one.
Click to expand...

I somewhat agree but I took his request to mean that for whatever reason, he wanted THIS cue converted to J/B. This job is cake for me so I wasn't about to talk him out of it. Since my action is now pushing daisies, it's all pretty much a mute point for me....LOL

Seriously Sheldon, I don't need the work right now so no harm done. You told the truth.
 
While I'm waiting on my coffee I thought I'd take a minute to add this.

There is nothing 'cast in concrete' as to what the correct length of a jump cue should be. BCA equip. specs indicate that minimum cue length is to be 40 or 42" (sorry, I don't have a rule book in front of me). After that, the sky's the limit. There is no maximum length. I know plenty of taller people that appreciate a longer jump cue. One in particular would torture me on a regular basis.....and I can play.

Ideal is one thing but ideal isn't right for everyone.
 
Kj

I saw a short guy playing with a 65 inch cue the other day. Your are right there should be no major standards. To each his/her own.
Tom Gedris. Triple Cross Cues:cool:
 
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