JacobyToby
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How much time between cuts is recommended for keilwood shafts?
Keilwood cutting
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Considering the very wide range of opinions and ideas on the subject, this is the perfect answer.
JacobyToby
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Very helpful
I've seen many builders try to turn shaft material quicker just because of the specific material. For example, a laminated blank versus a straight maple blank. Some believe that the laminated blank can be turned on a different schedule because it is laminated and therefore, will not have the same potential to move between passes. Now, I see the same thinking with keilwood. Wood is still wood. I'll stick to my schedule...Considering the very wide range of opinions and ideas on the subject, this is the perfect answer.
I’m not sure if this is meant to be sarcastic but the information is sound. There is no industry standard , only what works for you. The longest I’ve taken between passes is about 8 years, the shortest about 3 months. I’m in no hurry and I don’t do much volume.
Ripleys believe it or not............I know a guy that experimented and turned that style of wood shaft down to finished size the day he received the very large oversized blanks. Last I know he was still playing with it and claims it's still straight as the day it came off the lathe.
Now...this isn't his norm for doing so but didn't want to wait to be able to try out the "specialized" wood he had just received.
Maybe just got lucky with the piece he choose out the group.
Now...this isn't his norm for doing so but didn't want to wait to be able to try out the "specialized" wood he had just received.
Maybe just got lucky with the piece he choose out the group.
All wood has the potential to move. I don't care if it has sat for a week or a decade.
I never bought into super gradual cuts on wood that has already been dried. The first couple can be very aggressive, then take your time on the last few.
Kielwood is generally more stable and an accelerated schedule is possible.
You will have to develop your own schedule and learn to adjust it as necessary depending on the material you have on hand.
I never bought into super gradual cuts on wood that has already been dried. The first couple can be very aggressive, then take your time on the last few.
Kielwood is generally more stable and an accelerated schedule is possible.
You will have to develop your own schedule and learn to adjust it as necessary depending on the material you have on hand.
Isn't that the truth plus one! Have had this exact discussion several times over the course. You just don't know how the tree that any said given piece of wood comes from has grown during the course of it's growing life.
Did it grow on the side of a hill?
Did it grow with another tree leaning against it?
Did it get hit by a strong wind storm and get bent over or partially up rooted and then continue to grow and try to straighten itself out along the way?
The list goes on but so many ways not only during it's growing life but also after it's been harvested that it can have internal stress inside the wood that every time it takes a cut it gets released and the bow continually just keep moving on out.
I have shafts that will cut straight but 6 months later will have movement in them that are over 20 years in my shop. It's not going to stop and I don't care what you do to try and negate it. I've tried the Nelsonite crap. I've tested soaking them in shellac. Resting them extended periods.
It's all pretty much hogwash if the piece has built in stress it wants to release.
I now have a culling system that when they reach a certain size and they still bump when put between centers they go in the scrap pile and get cut up into shorter pieces and used for other things.
Now in the early stages of cutting anything I do take a little longer time because I will only move the cutter in so far to help relieve the tool pressure during the cut. Say if I want to take a hundred thou off a round, I'll do 2 passes back to back only moving the cutter in .025 a shot rather than stressing it out at a full .050 cut in one pass. That's my idea of taking my time and doing gradual passes.
Now, when I get to a certain stage of being closer to finish size it's a whole different ball game on the depth of cut and waiting times.
Yes sir, I like your thinking. I do the same.
Imo , 2 years minimum for completion from 1" dowels.
When you get down to 13.5mm , 3 months to 13.25mm. Then let it sit a while at 13.25mm.
Torrified maple is closed cell wood. It does not absorb and release nearly as regular kilned maple. That's why they are so much more stable.
If wood was cut right and dried right, sudden loss of moisture is what really warps wood imo .
Seen it for two decades here in commiefornia.
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