Laminated tip glue?

What is the best glue for making multi-layered leather tips?

Just a swinging wild ass guess, but I’d bet that all the equipment you would need to make them properly would make it cost prohibitive. Good luck in your quest. Personally, I’d just buy them.
 
I worked with leather for many years back in the day and one of the best leather glues available is plain old Elmer's wood glue. I forget the brand of leather glue I used but I interchanged between the two with no problem. But! I was making mostly holsters and the like. When you make layered leather cue tips you have to factor in the equation of heat and I don't know how the available leather craft glues would react to that.
 
What is the best glue for making multi-layered leather tips?

" Secret think you are pursuing....
" That's what makes the layered tip-
the pig skin is important-
BUT THE GLUE IS WHAT IS JUST AS IMPORTANT.....
Curious to see if any one feels the same way "
 
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" Secret think you are pursuing....
" That's what makes the layered tip-
the pig skin is important-
BUT THE GLUE IS WAHT IS JUST AS IMPORTANT.....
Curious to see if any one feels the same way "
I agree, I bet it is a recipe kept in a bank vault....no one will give it up. Be prepared for mis-information too. Many factors to consider, as the glue will affect the elasticity or rigidity of the leather after it sinks in and sets....Good Luck on the OP's quest
Dave
 
When i have bonded skived/seamless leather flat belts for old machinery, i tried epoxy, contact cement, superglue. The best, most durable of those was plain old hot hide glue. I never tried Titebond (same as Elmers) but have heard it works well in that app.

I'd certainly try hot hide glue (not the liquid stuff). Seems like it could be grippy, the flakes are. It can be modified with glycerin for flex, though in the thin layers in a tip, i would not start with any.

Hide glue is available in various gram strengths, which is not directly related to actual strength - it more relates to how fast it tacks. But the higher GS are purer product. I'd try something above 265 GS, probably 315 GS, which is what fiddle makers use.

Pure unflavored Knox jello is high purity hot hide glue. Never heard what the GS might be.

The big problem with hide glue is it is not waterproof.

Most of its other characteristics would seem ideal for cue tips.

smt , mostly a milk dud kind of guy. Does not like layered tips.
 
When i have bonded skived/seamless leather flat belts for old machinery, i tried epoxy, contact cement, superglue. The best, most durable of those was plain old hot hide glue. I never tried Titebond (same as Elmers) but have heard it works well in that app.

I'd certainly try hot hide glue (not the liquid stuff). Seems like it could be grippy, the flakes are. It can be modified with glycerin for flex, though in the thin layers in a tip, i would not start with any.

Hide glue is available in various gram strengths, which is not directly related to actual strength - it more relates to how fast it tacks. But the higher GS are purer product. I'd try something above 265 GS, probably 315 GS, which is what fiddle makers use.

Pure unflavored Knox jello is high purity hot hide glue. Never heard what the GS might be.

The big problem with hide glue is it is not waterproof.

Most of its other characteristics would seem ideal for cue tips.

smt , mostly a milk dud kind of guy. Does not like layered tips.

Great info. I will give it a try. Thanks
 
Out of pure curiosity, what are the specs are for leather? Do you just go get some un-dyed glove leather? or is there something special about the tanning process? How do they get a uniform thickness for the layers?

smt
 
Out of pure curiosity, what are the specs are for leather? Do you just go get some un-dyed glove leather? or is there something special about the tanning process? How do they get a uniform thickness for the layers?

smt
I am still in the early stages. I did order some un-dyed leather, I haven't tried any yet. Hope to this week.
 
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