Leather cases, wraps and SlipStic,

[pete lafond]

One of the top European luxury car manufacturers now uses only SlipStic ingredients on their leather seats. (I am not sure if I'm allowed to say who. If it is OK, I will post the company name).

They found out that because it does not contain any moisture (even though it is in liquid form) the leather can not dry out. Their experience has been that it softens the leather, preserves the integrity, protects it from dirt (repels dirt and grime) and does not allow moisture to get in even if you throw the leather in a bucket of water for a long time. They only apply at the factory once and state that it maintains the natural look and feel of the leather and customers like it.

Our lab has told us that the ingredients in SlipStic is excellent for leather, but I did not pursue it. We were thinking of coming out with a separate package that would offer a long lasting leather scent for cue cases and grips, but not at this time.

 

[Snapshot9]

Neat ...

People love that 'new leather' smell in a new car, so if
you could make their cue cases smell like that, they would
probably love it.

 

[pete lafond]

People love that 'new leather' smell in a new car, so if
you could make their cue cases smell like that, they would
probably love it.

Thanks Scott. Struggling whether to add scent to it and re-packaging with a new label, it might cheapen it. The only difference would be the scent. Kinda nice though, a pool product re-packaged for other industries as opposed to the reverse.

We do add a scent to the cleaner though. The reason is that people do not believe a cleaner works if it does not smell like one. Smell provokes opinions. Our earlier cleaner which was super and cleaned the shaft to better than new stunk like sulfur. We added a coconut scent to it. Anyway we never went to market with it because it left residue behind.

 

[TheBook]

One of the top European luxury car manufacturers now uses only SlipStic ingredients on their leather seats. (I am not sure if I'm allowed to say who. If it is OK, I will post the company name).

They found out that because it does not contain any moisture (even though it is in liquid form) the leather can not dry out. Their experience has been that it softens the leather, preserves the integrity, protects it from dirt (repels dirt and grime) and does not allow moisture to get in even if you throw the leather in a bucket of water for a long time. They only apply at the factory once and state that it maintains the natural look and feel of the leather and customers like it.

Our lab has told us that the ingredients in SlipStic is excellent for leather, but I did not pursue it. We were thinking of coming out with a separate package that would offer a long lasting leather scent for cue cases and grips, but not at this time.

Leather is a skin. This stuff sounds too good to be true. I need to buy a quart or so and rub it all over my body. I won't ever get dirty again, will be water proof, have soft skin, will not dry out and hopefully will not wrinkle. Gosh maybe the ladies ought to by this stuff and put all of the cosmetic companies out of business.

 

[pete lafond]

Leather is a skin. This stuff sounds too good to be true. I need to buy a quart or so and rub it all over my body. I won't ever get dirty again, will be water proof, have soft skin, will not dry out and hopefully will not wrinkle. Gosh maybe the ladies ought to by this stuff and put all of the cosmetic companies out of business.

Yeah, but leather is dead skin. No cells to replenish and gets dried out. If you introduce moisture to leather it will get soft and look good for a very short while, that is until it dries up and starts to crack. However with a formula that has no moisture to it at all, it can not dry out. This leaves the leather looking very good for a very long time. Also consider that moisture can not enter the leather now, so it is now protected from changes in humidity and heat.

As you said, you can rub it on your ladies or even yourself if you like as it is more slippery than KY and even safer. Additionally it is inert and does not react with anything, which means it will not destroy or break down other materials. However I would recommend that you keep the cost down by only applying it to your shaft and butt only. I'm talking about your cue stick.

Anyway thanks for the comments, well taken.

 

[catscradle]

Thanks Scott. Struggling whether to add scent to it and re-packaging with a new label, it might cheapen it. The only difference would be the scent. Kinda nice though, a pool product re-packaged for other industries as opposed to the reverse.
.

FYI.
I personally wouldn't use it if scent were added. The first rendition of quick-clean had a scent added and I thought it ruined the product. I definitely don't want a scented shaft or wrap for that matter. I wouldn't buy a special product for my leather wrap anyway, Pledge does a find job.

We do add a scent to the cleaner though. The reason is that people do not believe a cleaner works if it does not smell like one. Smell provokes opinions. Our earlier cleaner which was super and cleaned the shaft to better than new stunk like sulfur. We added a coconut scent to it. Anyway we never went to market with it because it left residue behind.

I don't know what scent you add, but it sure smells like garden variety acetone to me. It works pretty good, but it is not as good at what it does as slip-stic is at what it does. I wouldn't buy the cleaner again.

 

[pete lafond]

I don't know what scent you add, but it sure smells like garden variety acetone to me. It works pretty good, but it is not as good at what it does as slip-stic is at what it does. I wouldn't buy the cleaner again.

It is only meant to be a surface layer cleaner we do not what to take chances on ruining cue shafts. We also did not what to leave any chemical traces behind and or to enter the wood. If you use a strong chemical based cleaner on your shaft, our cleaner will remove any residue so nothing is left behind to damage the wood.

Just so you know the cleaner has a super distilled heptanes base. (those that use lighter fluid would see similar results except that lighter fluid is somewhat dirty and some residue remains on the shaft).

We do have a cleaner that will make your shaft brand-spanking-new but it is chemically based. In your opinion, would you use a two step cleaning method? Step 1. A harsher chemical base but cleans completely. Step 2. Our existing cleaner to remove residues from step one.

Marketing says people like simple and 2 steps is too much, just interested in what you have to say.


What happens when harsh chemicals are left behind is that they create soft points in the shaft. This alters the flex points which adds to unwanted deflections. Cue shaft makers spent lots of money to develop more uniform flex and players spend lots of money for these shafts.

What people forget is that many polishers and cleaners are meant for finished furniture and not for bare (or almost) wood. Silicon especially should be kept far away from wood.

 

[catscradle]

It is only meant to be a surface layer cleaner we do not what to take chances on ruining cue shafts. We also did not what to leave any chemical traces behind and or to enter the wood. If you use a strong chemical based cleaner on your shaft, our cleaner will remove any residue so nothing is left behind to damage the wood.

Just so you know the cleaner has a super distilled heptanes base. (those that use lighter fluid would see similar results except that lighter fluid is somewhat dirty and some residue remains on the shaft).

We do have a cleaner that will make your shaft brand-spanking-new but it is chemically based. In your opinion, would you use a two step cleaning method? Step 1. A harsher chemical base but cleans completely. Step 2. Our existing cleaner to remove residues from step one.

Marketing says people like simple and 2 steps is too much, just interested in what you have to say.


What happens when harsh chemicals are left behind is that they create soft points in the shaft. This alters the flex points which adds to unwanted deflections. Cue shaft makers spent lots of money to develop more uniform flex and players spend lots of money for these shafts.

What people forget is that many polishers and cleaners are meant for finished furniture and not for bare (or almost) wood. Silicon especially should be kept far away from wood.

I'd try a 2 step process and see how it worked, but I suspect your marketing people are right most people want it simple. Actually wouldn't it be a 3 step process because step 1 would really strip everything off the wood and you'd have to reseal or apply slip-stic, right?
I find a slightly damp paper towel is sufficient if I'm not sloppy when applying the chalk. If it gets really dirty I then do the Magic Eraser route. I also found Rain-x to do an excellent job of cleaning it, but I'm leery of using it because, as you mentioned, chemicals are bad for wood and I'm not sure what is in it.