Leveling a 3-pc slate on a smaller, recreational home table

DangleShot

New member
A question for anyone who moves / recovers pool tables. I did read the 8- or 9-page doc on here from 2007-2012 that talks about this issue, I'm a little unsure if my table has the same methods to securing slates and rails since it is smaller and cheaper. According to the mechanic working on my table, my variance happened after the rails were put back on which did not seem to be mentioned at the end of the doc in the bumped or sticky post. Maybe it's because my table might have bolts that secure rails and slates concurrently instead of separate ones? Not sure. I don't know...

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About 20 years ago when I got married and moved out of my parents' house, I had our 7' 3-pc slate Brunswick Bristol II pool table come with me. I had a local pool hall with reputable mechanics move and recover it with Granito cloth. The table always rolled a little unevenly along the ends of the table toward the center and it always bothered me. So when the guys were putting the table back together, they did a great job and had great attention to detail, they added new thicker pocket facings, snipped edges of the black drop pockets so they didn't creep past the edge of the pocket mouths, and let me bevel / file the edges of the pocket holes that seemed a bit sharp, split the old cloth, and created a tiny lip on the edge of the pocket that made slow-rolling balls back up as the cloth was bent over the edge. When they put the slates back on, they had me verify the table was level before they beeswaxed it and put it back together. It seems like the rolling issue away from the end rails was gone.

But then they put the rails back on, and sure enough, when I tested the table, the balls rolled away from the end rails about half as much as they did before. I pointed it out to the guy and he said maybe the balls were old and they rolled bad, which sounded like garbage, that would maybe make the rolls inconsistent if anything. I had some brand new ones and they did the same thing. Then he said maybe the plywood beams under the table bowed a bit when he tightened everything up since the table isn't exactly a gold crown or anything. Or maybe the rails as they were put back on pulled the edges up a minuscule amount. He didn't volunteer to shim it since he would break his seals and have to do all his work over again, and I had verified it was level a half-hour before. It wasn't contentious, I let him go.

Well, later I went under there, there are plywood crossbeams that sit under the divisions in the slate and tried to shim it on both sides with things I had around the house, and I got one side more level but broke the beeswax seal, making a couple impediments under the cloth. So I didn't try the other side.

Now I wanna have the table recovered again, and I don't wanna antagonize this second company I'm gonna have do it. Is this a common issue? If they shim or prop the underside of the slate along the seams, will it cancel out the bowing later? If they start with a tiny lean toward the edges, will it get worse when they put it together, making it roll to the ends more? Did I provide enough information that this could be determined? Should I just let this next company do their thing?

I know this is a complex issue as people noted in the other thread. Maybe the new mechanic will have a workaround or a best practice that will fix this.

Bill from Buffalo
 
A couple of things to try.
Explore ways to make the frame more flat and level.
Have the mechanic level the slates with the rails attached.
I am not an expert on 3 piece slates yet, but I have had good success by paying close attention to the frame, before putting the slates back on.
 
It's a low-grade table. The frame provides only a few shim locations. The installers need to be very careful with shim placement and screw tension, as it could be very easy to distort the slate. It sounds like your previous installers did not glue the slates together. Not everyone does, but the best installers always do.

In my opinion, this table should NOT have worsted cloth installed on it. Fast cloth will only magnify the deficiencies in the design. Though, I do believe that your current issues could be mostly corrected.
 
It's a low-grade table. The frame provides only a few shim locations. The installers need to be very careful with shim placement and screw tension, as it could be very easy to distort the slate. It sounds like your previous installers did not glue the slates together. Not everyone does, but the best installers always do.

In my opinion, this table should NOT have worsted cloth installed on it. Fast cloth will only magnify the deficiencies in the design. Though, I do believe that your current issues could be mostly corrected.
Yeah, that's pretty much what the mechanic said. My dad got the table from a well-known local 'pools-and-leisure' store that sells swimming pools, grills, outdoor furniture, and hot tubs, and their installers did the bare minimum and used the standard pilling woolen cloth. They didn't put anything between the slates and there were tiny lips on the table where the seams were, the center slate sat a tiny bit lower than the edge ones. I'm sure it was all he could afford in slate pool tables. My model was made even before Brunswick improved it by using solid oak rails in the early 90s, mine has MDF-laminate rails and sides. The pool hall mechanic did do a better job but as you noted, he used beeswax instead of super glue, which is probably a good thing, I'm not sure if I would've cracked the slates when I tried shimming the one side myself. I was trying to pound the shims a little from both sides and in two places along the beam so as not to break the seal, but I did slightly anyway, I needed something nearly 1/8" thick to correct it.. My thin, smooth worsted cloth does expose the slope more, but I hate playing on fuzzy woolen cloth, it doesn't take long for it to pit and burn and roll badly as the balls stop. I think the screw tension when he put the rails back on pulled the edges up if that's possible. It's very level when rolling along the long side of the table.

The table has sentimental value so I will probably keep it, but unless I move, I would need to stay in 7' size to make it fit. The one local pool hall installed a whole bunch of new Diamond and Rasson 7' tournament tables, but I hate the look of the sleeker modern tables with their shallow pocket shelves and more parallel pocket openings and don't want a Valley bar box for that reason either. I know Olhausen and some other brands make ornate-legged leather-and-tasseled-pocket home tables but I'm not much a fan of those either. I would wanna stay loyal to Brunswick, but it looks like the only table they have that looks like a Gold Crown in 7' is a model called Black Wolf. Not sure how much better that is than mine.

I wonder if installing some sort of jack like they use in basements to keep the main floor supported when they replace beams would help. I think I'm grasping at straws or worrying for nothing because maybe this new mechanic will do it right or make the needed allowances or adjustments if it happens again. It's a fine line between warning him and telling him how to do his job though ;-)

Bill
 
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