logos update & question

ragbug74 said:
Thanks Chris, I did mix up the terminology "transfer" and "decal". I can see where the transfers would be easier to hide in the finish. The nice thing about the self-printed decals is the flexibility to print whatever you'd like at home instead of having to order them.

Greg, how did the edges of the decal look after you finished over the shaft/decal you posted above? On the cue I applied one on, I put the decal on one of the points of the dark butt wood on a housecue conversion. If I had put it between the points on the maple forearm, it probably would've hidden the background/edges a little better. If I think about it (and have time) this weekend, I'll take a picture of my application and post it.




To be honest I've only used them a couple of times so far. I still only build a hand full of cues a year, and most people don't want decals, just hand signed.
The ones I have used were on maple, so perhaps that's why, but I didn't seem to have any problems with the edges lifting, in fact I was pretty surprised that I didn't because I actually expected that from the get go. I did cut as much of the excess backing that I could, I think :rolleyes: , but not sure If that made the difference or not. I also had a seal cote on the cue/shaft before applying, and the surface was prepped.

I like the idea of reversing the font, and of just applying the ink, but I have not tried those yet.:)

For those that don't already know, You have to spray the sheets, over the ink with some kind of clear, or the water will rub the ink off when applying them to the cue. Greg
 
I have used this companys rub on paper, and if used with a color laser printer, seemed to work very well. You just have to follow the directions closely, and trim very close to the picture or lettering.
http://www.waterslide-decals.com/rubon-transfers.html
This is a quick demo that I just did. If I would have cleaned the surface and taken my time, etc, it would be alot better.
I did this on a piece of white abs
DSC00016.jpg
 
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Cue Crazy said:
For those that don't already know, You have to spray the sheets, over the ink with some kind of clear, or the water will rub the ink off when applying them to the cue. Greg


There are (2) types of decal sheets available...one for inkjet printers and one for laser printers. With the laser printer fixing the image with heat, the image won't "wash off" when applying the decal. My suggestion is stick to the laser version unless you have no choice.
 
greg, i don't want to sound argumentative, but why are you using decals for your logo?
 
bruin70 said:
greg, i don't want to sound argumentative, but why are you using decals for your logo?


Nothing argumentative about asking a simple question:) .Simple answer is I just did It for fun, or because I could I guess:D I've only actually used them twice, and both times were on shafts. Some of makers here mentioned It to Me a long time ago, and showed a couple of pictures, and I thought It would be neat to try.As I stated above Most are hand signed, because I really only build a hand full a year, and most people want them hand signed anyhow.Your probably thinking why decal, when I could engrave My initials in the butt cap, and the truth is I can do that also with My panto. The decals aren't standard practice for me though. I've never had a problem with trying new things, even if they don't become standard practice. I had shafts in mind the whole time, and had considered making some laminated shafts at one time. These seemed to be an idea for putting logos on those at the time. I am not the first person to try this stuff by far.:)
 
i just went to staples and bought a label maker with clear tape. cost me 75$ tape comes sticky and ink is on the inside dries invisible

MVC_059S.jpg
 
I finally got around to snapping a pic of the label I tried. Most of the glare is off my table light and the flash.
 

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