WilleeCue said:I have come to terms with being a half a bubble off, but now you tell me I am also a few tenthousands out of round?LOL
I never said anything about you being out of round so what are you talking about..
Looking to get a new chuck; "Set-tru", 6-Jaw or Collet type?
- Thread starter Jr's Farm
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I never said anything about you being out of round so what are you talking about..
I must have been one of the lucky ones-
Several years back I purchased a Grizzly 13.5-40" which comes standardly with a 3-jaw scroll w/ hardened jaws. I can put in a ground 1/2" gauge pine, check the od with my 1/2 thou. indicator and run to within .0004- repeatedly-sometimes the indicator doesn't seem to move. (and yes, I HAVE had the indicator inspected)
Sometimes less, rarley more if I take my time (a few extra seconds, using the same key slot everytime with even pressure, and an indicator on the part when tightening it down).
Now, add a collet filled with a piece of wood, that's another story. To indicate the piece or the collet? Hmmm...herein lies the question.
Never understood the collets with 1 slot down the side. Seems to me if you put something in that collet much larger than the id, you are expanding it out of round. Now, collets with 3 slots for a 3-jaw, and collets with 6 slots for a 6-jaw- collapsing equally together- that just seems to make more sense to me.
I use tapered id collets mostly...
This probably belongs in another post- so sorry to the original poster :smile:
IMO
-Chris
Several years back I purchased a Grizzly 13.5-40" which comes standardly with a 3-jaw scroll w/ hardened jaws. I can put in a ground 1/2" gauge pine, check the od with my 1/2 thou. indicator and run to within .0004- repeatedly-sometimes the indicator doesn't seem to move. (and yes, I HAVE had the indicator inspected)
Sometimes less, rarley more if I take my time (a few extra seconds, using the same key slot everytime with even pressure, and an indicator on the part when tightening it down).
Now, add a collet filled with a piece of wood, that's another story. To indicate the piece or the collet? Hmmm...herein lies the question.
Never understood the collets with 1 slot down the side. Seems to me if you put something in that collet much larger than the id, you are expanding it out of round. Now, collets with 3 slots for a 3-jaw, and collets with 6 slots for a 6-jaw- collapsing equally together- that just seems to make more sense to me.
I use tapered id collets mostly...
This probably belongs in another post- so sorry to the original poster :smile:
IMO
-Chris
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No apology necessary, it's all good info.
As far as collets with the expansion slot go, I can't imagine that it makes any difference, as long as the wall thickness of the collet is the same all the way around and that each of your jaws contact the collet. Just don't chuck up on the slot. The collet may contract or expand out of round, but it still shouldn't matter.
As far as indicating a part with a collet, I would choose to indicate the part, if it was turned on centers already to begin with.
Case in point; doing a repair on a cue, replacing the entire handle section. Once the old handle was removed, the handle to forearm joint screw was located off center. I just indicated the forearm (which was remarkably round, being wood and all) and not the collet, bored the old off center tapped hole and inserted a new oversized dowel pin, on center, concentric to the surface of the forearm. Re-bore, ream, tap, yada-yada.
I suppose in a perfect world, indicating the collet or the part should be the same, but I'd indicate the collet only at the jaw locations.
Regards,
Frank
As far as collets with the expansion slot go, I can't imagine that it makes any difference, as long as the wall thickness of the collet is the same all the way around and that each of your jaws contact the collet. Just don't chuck up on the slot. The collet may contract or expand out of round, but it still shouldn't matter.
As far as indicating a part with a collet, I would choose to indicate the part, if it was turned on centers already to begin with.
Case in point; doing a repair on a cue, replacing the entire handle section. Once the old handle was removed, the handle to forearm joint screw was located off center. I just indicated the forearm (which was remarkably round, being wood and all) and not the collet, bored the old off center tapped hole and inserted a new oversized dowel pin, on center, concentric to the surface of the forearm. Re-bore, ream, tap, yada-yada.
I suppose in a perfect world, indicating the collet or the part should be the same, but I'd indicate the collet only at the jaw locations.
Regards,
Frank