Talk to Ryan about those options. He extended the sub-rails on our Gold Crown with new Super Speed Cushions.
Looking to purchase a pool table for my home. Need some advice.
- Thread starter Kris_b1104
- Start date
When you shim the pockets, you put pads on the facings as the way to narrow the size
When you extend the sub rails, you actually elongate the rail and sub rail and put new rails cut to the length to make the size pocket that you want with the appropriate facing angle
This way there’s no stacking of shims
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Contact info for ryan?
Yep. I wasn't asking in reference to simply shimming the pockets, more why change any of it at all, but understand now where he's coming from and appreciate this as well.
IMO, unless your torturing the 10 ball ghost the pockets aren't the problem. When I go play tournaments on 4.5"-4" pockets I don't have any issues adjusting.
No need to tighten them. Like others have said, if you choose to, extended rails is the way.
No need to tighten them. Like others have said, if you choose to, extended rails is the way.
I have an Olhausen with similar size pockets and I don't think I'll reduce the pockets until I can run 3 packs consistently or beat the ghost in a race to 10 with ball in hand after the break.Due to the size of these buckets, unfortunately I am making too many balls on the break
I think I will keep it for 20 years until I am finally frustrated. By the advancement of technology, by then there will be a device that gives me a good layout every time.
Who knows, maybe Pagulayan will come out with the Pristine pool table. For a small payment of $785.99/month
I have a friend who is slightly better than me and had his pockets reduced to 4.25. He told me that he finds playing on the tight table frustrating because he hardly runs racks now.
Maybe 4.5 as someone suggested might be the tightest you should go if you are not a very good (600 plus Fargo) player.
Just my opinion.
BilliardHome
New member
Dealer here, and that advice about measuring first is dead on. Beyond the room dimensions, the real question for stairs is whether you're going with a one piece slate or a three piece. One piece slabs run 700-1000+ lbs as a single unit and turning that on a staircase landing is a two person job at minimum, sometimes needs a third for tight turns. Three piece slate breaks down into 200-300 lb sections which is a lot more manageable for stairs and doorways, and it's what most movers prefer for upstairs installs anyway. Also measure your stairwell width and any turns or landings, not just the room, because that's usually where deals fall apart. Wrote up more detail on the stairs specific stuff here if it helps: https://billiardhome.com/blog/moving-a-pool-table-upstairs. Whatever table you land on, budget for pros to do the teardown and setup rather than DIY, slate cracks are expensive mistakes.
The table you buy will be FAR better than the one you own now, it will give you the ability to PRACTICE, not just play games, do you play in league? If yes, practicing on a table that you will compete on will help, that's my 2 cents worth, hope it helps