Low deflection shafts less important when playing one-pocket?

[maha]

i believe you use a lot more spin in one pocket than any other game. you are always spinning balls to increase the angles off the rails. how else are you going to get around balls and move balls toward your hole.

 

[ironworker78]

I think you're pretty spot on here. There just aren't as many shots in one pocket that constantly require tons of english and a hard stroke. There's definitely minimal cueball movement. Hell, I've played pretty decent one-pocket games with a house cue without missing my Predator. Once in a while though, I'll want to go for a crazy stroke shot or two (usually straight in draw shots to draw into the kitchen and back down table) but those are few and far between.

hammer: head : nail: :thumbup:

 

[PetToilet]

If you go to the Plantimum Billiards chart showing deflection of various shafts ( https://www.platinumbilliards.com/rating_deflect.php ), you can see that the difference between LD shafts and many of the non-LD shafts is about half an inch over a 50 inch shot. LD shafts deflect a bit over an inch at that distance and many non-LD shafts deflect a bit over an inch and a half. Clearly, you still have to compensate to a significant degree even with LD shafts. It seems to me that what may be more important that the degree of deflection is the consistency of the deflection. To me, the radial consistency of Predators and OB-1s (and others) means that they are not only going to deflect less, but they should deflect consistently, always the same amount regardless of the orientation of the shaft. So a radially consistent shaft, even if it is not LD, should allow you to learn how much to compensation for side spin.

one I have one. In addition, I got one because I want less vertical deflection, which shoves the cue ball into the felt or into the air which I believe affects swerve. less deflection in general means less std dev and variability due to conditions for better consistency. having one with a pivot point around the bridge isn't the most reliable, at least for me.

 

[Shaft]

If you go to the Plantimum Billiards chart showing deflection of various shafts ( https://www.platinumbilliards.com/rating_deflect.php ), you can see that the difference between LD shafts and many of the non-LD shafts is about half an inch over a 50 inch shot. LD shafts deflect a bit over an inch at that distance and many non-LD shafts deflect a bit over an inch and a half. Clearly, you still have to compensate to a significant degree even with LD shafts. It seems to me that what may be more important that the degree of deflection is the consistency of the deflection. To me, the radial consistency of Predators and OB-1s (and others) means that they are not only going to deflect less, but they should deflect consistently, always the same amount regardless of the orientation of the shaft. So a radially consistent shaft, even if it is not LD, should allow you to learn how much to compensation for side spin.

No disagreement with you, Bill, and I don't flame anyone as a matter of policy.

My point is this. I approach the shot, aim the CB at the OB, and then say to myself, "low left english would get me the best position here." If my cue's natural pivot point equals my bridge distance, I merely need to swing my backhand until I get the amount of english I want (BHE), and then I stroke the ball.

If my cue has a 14-inch pivot point, I need to "temporarily bridge" at 14 inches (guessing where 14 inches is of course), aim the shot, swing the backhand for the english I want, and then SLIDE my bridge hand up to an 8-inch bridge (a combination of BHE and FHE) - AND SLIDE WITHOUT MOVING THE CUE. More opportunities for error, right?

But, who am I kidding? My stroke isn't that perfect anyway. Best of luck in your 1-pocket game!

 

[androd]

Sorry, but I don't get this, at all. Please explain how the LD shafts makes the CB do these things differently.

I'm guessing here but I think the regular shaft allows a slight amout of masse going into the bank that the LD shaft doesn't. the slight curve may allow the CB to approach the OB from a slightly different angle allowing the balls to pass without kissing. As I said before I can make the shot with either shaft, but it's harder with the LD. I believe the LD, being stiffer requires more stroke or force or whatever to get this slight masse. You certainly have to become accustomed to either one. As I said before it works with my stroke.
Rodney.

 

[RunEmOut08]

i bet john schmidt wont be giving up his OB2 for playing 1pocket

 

[BillPorter]

I want less vertical deflection, which shoves the cue ball into the felt or into the air which I believe affects swerve. less deflection in general means less std dev and variability due to conditions for better consistency. having one with a pivot point around the bridge isn't the most reliable, at least for me.

After studying this for a while, I think it prudent that I turn in for the night. Have a good evening everyone!

 

[Patrick Johnson]

vertical deflection, which shoves the cue ball into the felt or into the air which I believe affects swerve

I think this is true (and not all that well known), but I wonder if it's a strong enough effect that high or low squirt matters much to the outcome.

pj
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