maching fronts [ forearms]..

[blud]

machining fronts [ forearms]..

FB-17's
Yes, that's what my son Donald calls this set up. FB-17...He came with this idea.

Years ago, we would turn cut 4 pieces of ebony, maple or whatever, on my 4-headed CNC saw.

They would be tapered from the joint end for about 9", then it would step out and cut the next 3" straight, and step out again and turn cut the butt sleeve straight. We would turn cut this for at least 4 times.

Then we would put them in my CNC mill, run the program for it's female pockets.

They were .025 over finished size.Then while it's still in the milling machine, use a program called, "MARK-IT"..

This "MARK-IT",program using an end mill, [.032], would Z, down and bore a hole at the front of the tennon, and also at the end [shoulder] of the front tennon, Z up, then move down to the front section of the tennon on the rear of the forarm, and drill two holes, one for the shoulder of the tennon's front end, and one at the end of the tennon's end, Z up again and move to the front of the butt sleeve and drill that hole, and Z up and move to the end of the butt sleeve.

Remove it and cut out your male inlays, install them, and turn cut to .015 over size.

Now, Just cut the butt sleeve off on the band saw, [ between the end of the tennon and start of the sleeve, about a 1/4" or so of trash], place the sleeve in your lathe, machine away the first hole, turn it around and do the same for the other end.


Next you would machine away the drilled holes. Just machine up to the edge of the hole,and when it's gone, your the exact right lenght for the tennon and butt sleeve.These hole were marking the lenghts of all tennon's and butt sleeves.Using this method, help us have consistancy with all cues. hang them in a cue rack, and all wraps, butt sleeves and so on were all the same lenght.

With the front having a flat spot, to hold it, machine the back of the forearm first. Then turn it around, placing the flat spot in the jaws, and useing a live center on the front of the forearm, machine that length and size accordlingly.

Machine everthing else between centers, and install your handle, and turn cut the cue .about.004 over finish size, sand, prep, finish-coat, and collect cash.....

CONSISTANCY, guys. Really makes it easy to build cues with re-peatability throughout the process. Everything the same-o, each time..

Thanks, Donald.

your dad.
blud

 

[RSB-Refugee]

FB-17's
Yes, that's what my son Donald calls this set up. FB-17...He came with this idea.

Sounds good Blud. Do you scratch a line lengthwise to index the butt sleeve and forearm on the handle?

Tracy

 

[blud]

lines

Sounds good Blud. Do you scratch a line lengthwise to index the butt sleeve and forearm on the handle?

Tracy

Hi Tracy,
Yes I do. I mark it on the sides. just before I machine the hole away, and after it's turned down to within .004, I use a ink pin and mark the side. works for me.

Hell of a neat trick for building cue this way, don't you think?
Build one, inlay it, turn it down, sand it a little, maybe spray a little finish on it, take it to the pool-room show it off and get it sold. Consumer can have a look see with the inlays and no handle. Go home and have it with a handle attached and turn cut the next day, and out the door within about a week.Sold plenty this way.A guy can see what he's getting ahead of time...

By machining all parts between centers, and after assembly, the cue will roll perfectly.

Years ago, when all I had was a panagraph, [ no CNC],I took a 1'X4" piece of maple 30" long and screwed it to the window frame, at the right angle to mark the center line of the cues full lenght so I could line up the front inlays to the butt sleeve ones. I just would sit the cue on the window sill, slid it over to the 1X4 and mark it with a pin.

blud

 

[RSB-Refugee]

Hell of a neat trick for building cue this way, don't you think?

Yes I do

Build one, inlay it, turn it down, sand it a little, maybe spray a little finish on it, take it to the pool-room show it off and get it sold. Consumer can have a look see with the inlays and no handle. Go home and have it with a handle attached and turn cut the next day, and out the door within about a week.Sold plenty this way.A guy can see what he's getting ahead of time...

You could also go with "custom options" weight, balance even a longer handle if the customer is looking for a different length. The possibilities are endless. It
is very good idea.

Years ago, when all I had was a panagraph, [ no CNC],I took a 1'X4" piece of maple 30" long and screwed it to the window frame, at the right angle to mark the center line of the cues full lenght so I could line up the front inlays to the butt sleeve ones. I just would sit the cue on the window sill, slid it over to the 1X4 and mark it with a pin.

blud

I can not visualize the board and window set-up. Are you talking about using a shadow as a straight edge?

 

[blud]

window

Yes I do


You could also go with "custom options" weight, balance even a longer handle if the customer is looking for a different length. The possibilities are endless. It
is very good idea.



I can not visualize the board and window set-up. Are you talking about using a shadow as a straight edge?

Ok I'll try again to explain.

In your shop you have a window and window sill. The sill [ longer than 30"], is at the bottom of the window. It's like a shelf. Lay the cue on the sill. Now take the 1X4 and attach it to the wall and let it stick up mid way to the cue laying on it's side.

The cue is say .840 at the joint, and 1.250 at the butt. So your 1X4, will be sticking up .420 above the sill at one end and .625 at the other, creating a straight center line down the side of your cue, but it's at an angle. It's not level.

If you don't have a window to use, screw a 2X4 , 30" long to the wall, and make it level, then allow the 1X4 to be .420 above the top edge of the 2X4. and .625 at the other end, above the 2X4, and attach with screws..

Now, with the cue in place, use a pencile or ink pin and scribe a line the length of the cue, using the top edge of the 1X4 as a guide.....

hope you got it, if not call me.
830-232-5991

I hope your understand it this time.

blud

 

[RSB-Refugee]

I hope your understand it this time.

blud

Thanks Blud, that does make sense, to me now.

Tracy

 

[bandido]

Thanks, Donald.

your dad.
blud

I must be missing something here and I'm sure that Donald can't be in the ignore bin as I don't use it. Was a question from Donald posted before Blud's answer?

 

[Zims Rack]

I must be missing something here and I'm sure that Donald can't be in the ignore bin as I don't use it. Was a question from Donald posted before Blud's answer?

I believe that Blud posted something that Donald said about or does when machining forearms.

Zim

 

[bandido]

I believe that Blud posted something that Donald said about or does when machining forearms.

Zim

Thanks Zim, it looked like he was addressing the readers here but then ended thanking Donald whose question or post I didn't see.