Making a cue lighter

duece6610

House Mouse
So I have a ebony on ebony cue that weighs over 20oz. I love the look of the cue and at the time I wasn't playing much so the extra weight helped keep my stroke steady. Now since I'm playing more often I'm struggling with soft stroking the heavy cue. My thought is possibly having a cue maker drill our some weight but I have an extension I had made for the cue. I figure an easy solution for that would be put a plastic insert and tap it for the extension. Would it even be possibly to get down to 19oz with drilling out but and what are potential issue with this?
 

chefjeff

If not now...
Silver Member
R.c5253322a378adb004ae373c1aac0e9b



Sorry, I can't help myself.


Jeff Livingston
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
You might save an ounce by replacing the joint pin depending on what's there. It very likely has a maple handle, so drilling it out will not gain you much.
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
It all depends on how the cue was built. If it was cored onto a maple dowel, then.....drilling/coring it out more will not do a lot. Is it a production cue or a custom? If a custom....by whom? Contacting the custom maker may shed some light on what can be done to lighten it. A production cue may have removable weight bolt(s) pictures and maker name needed to offer more assistance
 

duece6610

House Mouse
It all depends on how the cue was built. If it was cored onto a maple dowel, then.....drilling/coring it out more will not do a lot. Is it a production cue or a custom? If a custom....by whom? Contacting the custom maker may shed some light on what can be done to lighten it. A production cue may have removable weight bolt(s) pictures and maker name needed to offer more assistance
Its a customs cue, there no weight unless it's more than 6 inches. It's not cored but I am unsure of the wrap section underneath being maple. The pin is a 3/8-10 modified I believe SS. I bought the cue second hand and do not wish to contact the cue maker. Not to bash but I would rather not. I was planning on switching to a keilwood shaft so I may look into switching the pin also. Thanks guys
 

DeeDeeCues

Well-known member
I bought the cue second hand and do not wish to contact the cue maker. Not to bash but I would rather not.

Huh. Fishy. I'll just put this out there, even if it isn't necessary the case here: When you buy a cue second hand, you are still indirectly supporting the original maker by increasing demand. If you have a problem with a maker, stop buying his cues, new or used.
 

duece6610

House Mouse
Huh. Fishy. I'll just put this out there, even if it isn't necessary the case here: When you buy a cue second hand, you are still indirectly supporting the original maker by increasing demand. If you have a problem with a maker, stop buying his cues, new or used.
I bought the cue 4 years ago, with little knowledge about the cuemaker except he built a quality cue. Since then I've seen how his communication and timeline/planning are less than desirable. I'm not here to bash him or talk down about the quality, because it is great. But dealing with the person isn't worth the hassle from what I've learned.
 

DeeDeeCues

Well-known member
I bought the cue 4 years ago, with little knowledge about the cuemaker except he built a quality cue. Since then I've seen how his communication and timeline/planning are less than desirable. I'm not here to bash him or talk down about the quality, because it is great. But dealing with the person isn't worth the hassle from what I've learned.

Perfectly reasonable, thanks for clarifying.
 

It skid

Member
I bought the cue 4 years ago, with little knowledge about the cuemaker except he built a quality cue. Since then I've seen how his communication and timeline/planning are less than desirable. I'm not here to bash him or talk down about the quality, because it is great. But dealing with the person isn't worth the hassle from what I've learned.
Yup, move on. Maybe just sell the cue and use the money for a more desirable cuemaker?
 
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