making your own wood stabilizer

jkmarshall_cues

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Question for all the experts,

What ratios do I blend of solvent and oil together with white gas, (Naphtha), and thinner, Tung oil or linseed oil to make my own wood stabilizer (similar to Nelsonite to help prevent warpage)?? Any home brews worth sharing?? Is anybody making their own dipping sauce??
Thanks for your time,
John
 
Due to the hazards of some of these materials, I would just use the Nelsonite or whatever product you are using. It will also save you the time mixing, making sure its stored safely, etc. That time can then be used building cues. I see you have just started posting here and you are a hop over the mountains (several mountains) from me. Are you building cues full time or just starting out?
Jack
www.johnmaddencues.com
 
Actually, I'm a cue builder/maker want to be just starting out. Currently I am 50 years old and a teacher with aspirations of building one-of-a-kind full-spliced hand made old style cues when I retire from teaching in another 12 years or so. That's my dream and vision. I have plenty of time to learn and slowly but surely I'm wading thru all the toils associated with cue work. I built a 32' X 40' X 12' gas heated shop for assembling full-spliced cues. Over the past three years I have been acquiring new/used equipment for the tasks. I currently have 3, full size metal lathes 12" X (37"-40") and am in the process of buying one more, a dual Grizzly floor mount buffer, three large band saws, a floor mount pantomiller, a 10" Delta table saw with Biessmeyer fence and a GS shaft turning fixture, Dewalt 12" chop saw, various sanders, planers, jointers, and two dedicated new 10" radial arm saws for left and right sides of the darts for full spliced cues. I built a 12' X 8' paint booth and bought an accu-spray HVLP set up with a Croix air compressor designed for automotive painting. I have the river of wood and I'm working on the beginning stages of the learning curve. I have been reading and researching constantly, asking questions and visiting anyone regarding wood working and metal working. I find it fascinating. This is probably more information than people want to know however.
John
 
jkmarshall_cues said:
Actually, I'm a cue builder/maker want to be just starting out. Currently I am 50 years old and a teacher with aspirations of building one-of-a-kind full-spliced hand made old style cues when I retire from teaching in another 12 years or so. That's my dream and vision. I have plenty of time to learn and slowly but surely I'm wading thru all the toils associated with cue work. I built a 32' X 40' X 12' gas heated shop for assembling full-spliced cues. Over the past three years I have been acquiring new/used equipment for the tasks. I currently have 3, full size metal lathes 12" X (37"-40") and am in the process of buying one more, a dual Grizzly floor mount buffer, three large band saws, a floor mount pantomiller, a 10" Delta table saw with Biessmeyer fence and a GS shaft turning fixture, Dewalt 12" chop saw, various sanders, planers, jointers, and two dedicated new 10" radial arm saws for left and right sides of the darts for full spliced cues. I built a 12' X 8' paint booth and bought an accu-spray HVLP set up with a Croix air compressor designed for automotive painting. I have the river of wood and I'm working on the beginning stages of the learning curve. I have been reading and researching constantly, asking questions and visiting anyone regarding wood working and metal working. I find it fascinating. This is probably more information than people want to know however.
John

Wow, can I come and build my cues at your shop???
 
jkmarshall_cues said:
Actually, I'm a cue builder/maker want to be just starting out. Currently I am 50 years old and a teacher with aspirations of building one-of-a-kind full-spliced hand made old style cues when I retire from teaching in another 12 years or so. That's my dream and vision. I have plenty of time to learn and slowly but surely I'm wading thru all the toils associated with cue work. I built a 32' X 40' X 12' gas heated shop for assembling full-spliced cues. Over the past three years I have been acquiring new/used equipment for the tasks. I currently have 3, full size metal lathes 12" X (37"-40") and am in the process of buying one more, a dual Grizzly floor mount buffer, three large band saws, a floor mount pantomiller, a 10" Delta table saw with Biessmeyer fence and a GS shaft turning fixture, Dewalt 12" chop saw, various sanders, planers, jointers, and two dedicated new 10" radial arm saws for left and right sides of the darts for full spliced cues. I built a 12' X 8' paint booth and bought an accu-spray HVLP set up with a Croix air compressor designed for automotive painting. I have the river of wood and I'm working on the beginning stages of the learning curve. I have been reading and researching constantly, asking questions and visiting anyone regarding wood working and metal working. I find it fascinating. This is probably more information than people want to know however.
John
John
Add a good dust collection and air system for your spray booth! It will keep you alive - since a lot of the materials (including your woods) are breathing hazards. Most c/m starting out (myself included) sort of skipped over those pieces of equipment - don't. Also research masks (and I don't mean the little paper things!)
Jack
www.johnmaddencues.com
 
nelsonite health factors (naphthalene) nasty stuff

In humans, exposure to large amounts of naphthalene may damage or destroy red blood cells. This could cause the body to have too few red blood cells until it replaces the destroyed cells. Humans, particularly children, have developed this condition after ingesting mothballs or deodorant blocks containing naphthalene. Some of the symptoms of this condition are fatigue, lack of appetite, restlessness, and pale skin. Exposure to large amounts of naphthalene may also cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, blood in the urine, and jaundice (yellow coloration of the skin).

When the U.S. National Toxicology Program exposed male and female rats and mice to naphthalene vapors on weekdays for two years (1), male and female rats exhibited: clear evidence of carcinogenic activity, based on increased incidences of adenoma and neuroblastoma of the nose, female mice exhibited some evidence of carcinogenic activity, based on increased incidences of alveolar and bronchiolar adenomas of the lung, and male mice exhibited no evidence of carcinogenic activity.

The International Agency for Research on cancer (IARC) (2) classifies naphthalene as possibly carcinogenic to humans [Group 2B]. It also points out that acute exposure causes cataracts in humans, rats, rabbits, and mice and, that haemolytic anaemia, described above, can occur in children and infants after oral or inhalation exposure or after maternal exposure during pregnancy.

Over 400 million people have an inherited condition called glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency. For these people, exposure to naphthalene is harmful and may cause hemolytic anemia, which causes their erythrocytes to break down.
 
WOW!!
That stuff is NASTY!!! Thanks for the info. I always use Nelsonite outside, and leave the shafts outside for 12-15 hours before returning them into my workshop. I then leave the shop, then air it out the next time I go out there. Mind you it is 32' X 40' with a 12' ceiling. It has two garage doors that open up and I have good circulating fans to get the left over vapors out. I have around 1350 shaft dowels at 1" and over 600 of them have been turned down to .650 on the ferrule end and .950 on the joint end. I dip them for about 2-3 minutes each then hang them in portable racks ferrule side up. Some of them I hang from above with hooks if the shafts had any warpage to begin with. So far so good. I just ordered another 5 gallons of the new Resolute from Cue Components which is supposed to be less toxic than the old Nelsonite according to Joe. I'll let you know what I think of it next week, it's supposed to be here Monday. I bought one of the shaft fixtures from Greg Circa that runs over the top of a table saw which really speeds up taper cuts. However, you really have to be careful how much you crank up the blade heighth for the second, third, and forth cuts. It beats the heck out of the router screaming at you with the 3 or 4 bladed slot cutters. I just had a 100 tooth 10" table saw blade ground down and had the Kerf removed so it should cut really smooth for finishing passes on the table saw with Greg's fixture. I figure it this way, I'll have my shafts mostly ready then I can concentrate on full-spliced butt designs. It's been fun working, sorting blanks, and learning as I go. Everyone here on AZ has been extremely helpful when I ask questions. For that I very grateful. (<:
John
 
jkmarshall_cues said:
WOW!!
That stuff is NASTY!!! Thanks for the info. I always use Nelsonite outside, and leave the shafts outside for 12-15 hours before returning them into my workshop. I then leave the shop, then air it out the next time I go out there. Mind you it is 32' X 40' with a 12' ceiling. It has two garage doors that open up and I have good circulating fans to get the left over vapors out. I have around 1350 shaft dowels at 1" and over 600 of them have been turned down to .650 on the ferrule end and .950 on the joint end. I dip them for about 2-3 minutes each then hang them in portable racks ferrule side up. Some of them I hang from above with hooks if the shafts had any warpage to begin with. So far so good. I just ordered another 5 gallons of the new Resolute from Cue Components which is supposed to be less toxic than the old Nelsonite according to Joe. I'll let you know what I think of it next week, it's supposed to be here Monday. I bought one of the shaft fixtures from Greg Circa that runs over the top of a table saw which really speeds up taper cuts. However, you really have to be careful how much you crank up the blade heighth for the second, third, and forth cuts. It beats the heck out of the router screaming at you with the 3 or 4 bladed slot cutters. I just had a 100 tooth 10" table saw blade ground down and had the Kerf removed so it should cut really smooth for finishing passes on the table saw with Greg's fixture. I figure it this way, I'll have my shafts mostly ready then I can concentrate on full-spliced butt designs. It's been fun working, sorting blanks, and learning as I go. Everyone here on AZ has been extremely helpful when I ask questions. For that I very grateful. (<:
John

Saw blade shaft machines are really the nut for tapering shafts. I have 2 and have built and sold about 6 others. I have found that on a 10" blade 60 teeth seems to work best. My macines use 12" blades so have 72 teeth. I've tried blades with more teeth but for some reason they never cut as smoothly.

The kerf on a saw blade is the width of the cut, in other words, the width of the blade at it's widest point so I'm not sure what you meen by you removed the kerf. I try to find blades that don't have a thin kerf, which is hard to do now-a-days as everyone makes thin kerf blades for easier cutting and not as much expensive wood being turned to saw dust.

Dick
 
tag said:
In humans, exposure to large amounts of naphthalene may damage or destroy red blood cells. This could cause the body to have too few red blood cells until it replaces the destroyed cells. Humans, particularly children, have developed this condition after ingesting mothballs or deodorant blocks containing naphthalene. Some of the symptoms of this condition are fatigue, lack of appetite, restlessness, and pale skin. Exposure to large amounts of naphthalene may also cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, blood in the urine, and jaundice (yellow coloration of the skin).

When the U.S. National Toxicology Program exposed male and female rats and mice to naphthalene vapors on weekdays for two years (1), male and female rats exhibited: clear evidence of carcinogenic activity, based on increased incidences of adenoma and neuroblastoma of the nose, female mice exhibited some evidence of carcinogenic activity, based on increased incidences of alveolar and bronchiolar adenomas of the lung, and male mice exhibited no evidence of carcinogenic activity.

The International Agency for Research on cancer (IARC) (2) classifies naphthalene as possibly carcinogenic to humans [Group 2B]. It also points out that acute exposure causes cataracts in humans, rats, rabbits, and mice and, that haemolytic anaemia, described above, can occur in children and infants after oral or inhalation exposure or after maternal exposure during pregnancy.

Over 400 million people have an inherited condition called glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency. For these people, exposure to naphthalene is harmful and may cause hemolytic anemia, which causes their erythrocytes to break down.
TAG - WELCOME to the Forum.
 
That stuff does sound nasty. I have seen that some finishing cleaners have the stuff in them also.

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
That stuff does sound nasty. I have seen that some finishing cleaners have the stuff in them also.

Greg

Thing is there is many other chemicals besides naptha in Nelsonite that certainly isn't good for you. Any type of preservative or most hardwoods have toxins to stop bacteria from eating up the wood. I don't think if it was not dangerous it would be any good. Everything in life has it's plusses and minuses. You just have to decide for yourself what chances are worth taking for what benefits that will be attained and go with it.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Thing is there is many other chemicals besides naptha in Nelsonite that certainly isn't good for you. Any type of preservative or most hardwoods have toxins to stop bacteria from eating up the wood. I don't think if it was not dangerous it would be any good. Everything in life has it's plusses and minuses. You just have to decide for yourself what chances are worth taking for what benefits that will be attained and go with it.

Dick



I totally aggree. I have been breathing in just about every toxin known to man most of My life anyway. Stopping now is not going to save me in the end, but I suppose It may prolong things. Believe me if you saw the way I work you would be preaching Me on better ventlation and not wearing a mask everytime, when I know I should;) :D . Nothing funny about It though, and not something I would recomend to others, as I do have pretty substancial respiritory issues, but I had those before.
The world is full of toxins, In fact probably more of them out there in most products then not. Just read the warning on the back of almost any product, even household products have some severe warnings. Ofcoarse If you choose to subject your body to them even more then normal, then yes, you are taking your chances, so have to decide If It's worth It. I'd say almost the same thing about the smell of phenolic, nasty stuff, It does'nt smell too good, reminds me of the old brake and clutch pads, but It does'nt stop Me from using It.
My time has been borrowed anyway, so It's more of a non decision on My part, and does'nt apply as much in My case. It is something for some people to seriously consider though, and a decision they have to make for theirselves.:)

Greg
 
rhncue said:
Thing is there is many other chemicals besides naptha in Nelsonite that certainly isn't good for you. Any type of preservative or most hardwoods have toxins to stop bacteria from eating up the wood. I don't think if it was not dangerous it would be any good. Everything in life has it's plusses and minuses. You just have to decide for yourself what chances are worth taking for what benefits that will be attained and go with it.

Dick
I heard beer kills all of these toxins. :D
 
JoeyInCali said:
I heard beer kills all of these toxins. :D

No, I think you are confused. I think beer (and more beer) just makes you not care about then. :D

Kelly
 
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