Had another interesting conversion come my way, this one from Seybert's.
The client bought a limited edition McDermott (#130 of 250) but for whatever reason wanted the McD QR joint converted to a Uni-Loc. He also wanted a Gen1 Predator shaft matched & mated to the cue.
Seybert's provided me with a Gen1/Uni shaft. I built the dash billet, installed the ring-work, shot finish to size and that shaft was done.
Removed the orig. QR insert from the orig. shaft, plugged with phenolic and installed the Uni insert. 2nd shaft done. I wish I could have saved the QR insert because they are $12 ea. and that's 'IF' McD will sell you one. Don't hold your breath. Now for the exciting part.
I did not want to remove the orig. ss joint collar nor to disturb it's setting. This is a collectible cue and there would have been heat involved. I have some knowledge of the McD. QR jnt. system and felt confident that I could pull this off. For those who aren't aware, the QR pin does not go thru the collar into the forearm. It's an integral part of the jnt. collar and only exists on the collar face. The collar & pin are all one piece. I'll go into my thoughts on that later.
The QR pin was cut off at the surface of the collar. I next proceeded to bore thru the collar's face with a carbide end-mill, .220/.230" deep x .500 id. To keep any heat generated to a minimum, an air-hose provided a constant stream of cool air to the collar. This got me to the wood surface of the enclosed forearm. From there it was a simple matter of the usual Uni-pin install.
When Sey wants a job done, I don't ask why; I just do it. Hopefully this post will provide some insight for those confronted with a similar task.
The client bought a limited edition McDermott (#130 of 250) but for whatever reason wanted the McD QR joint converted to a Uni-Loc. He also wanted a Gen1 Predator shaft matched & mated to the cue.
Seybert's provided me with a Gen1/Uni shaft. I built the dash billet, installed the ring-work, shot finish to size and that shaft was done.
Removed the orig. QR insert from the orig. shaft, plugged with phenolic and installed the Uni insert. 2nd shaft done. I wish I could have saved the QR insert because they are $12 ea. and that's 'IF' McD will sell you one. Don't hold your breath. Now for the exciting part.
I did not want to remove the orig. ss joint collar nor to disturb it's setting. This is a collectible cue and there would have been heat involved. I have some knowledge of the McD. QR jnt. system and felt confident that I could pull this off. For those who aren't aware, the QR pin does not go thru the collar into the forearm. It's an integral part of the jnt. collar and only exists on the collar face. The collar & pin are all one piece. I'll go into my thoughts on that later.
The QR pin was cut off at the surface of the collar. I next proceeded to bore thru the collar's face with a carbide end-mill, .220/.230" deep x .500 id. To keep any heat generated to a minimum, an air-hose provided a constant stream of cool air to the collar. This got me to the wood surface of the enclosed forearm. From there it was a simple matter of the usual Uni-pin install.
When Sey wants a job done, I don't ask why; I just do it. Hopefully this post will provide some insight for those confronted with a similar task.