Meucci rebuild

DanO

DanO

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m rebuilding a Meucci Original with a broken forearm. Replacing the forearm was the easy part. The A pin was off center so I removed it, plugged it, and moved on. I built the forearm oversized, double chucked the handle in my headstock, then turned the forearm concentric with the handle without using my tailstock. Forearm is dead nuts so I can now move on to the joint.

I have two questions. First, I want to match the joint ring which is white ish. I have ABS natural that is close, and also some Juma that has an ivory tint to it. I may also replace the shaft rings so it’s a perfect match but the butt has some white so I want to be close. Any suggestions on a good match?

My second dilemma is the original stain is PURPLE. I’m thinking of ordering some concentrated liquid water based dye for this. Also, I can’t find any all purple linen. I have a ton of ivory linen that I may try dyeing with the same stuff I’m planning on for the wood. Ideas?

Thanks gentlemen,
Long time stalker, small time contributor.
 
Thanks for the replies but the original was straight dark purple. No white spec. With the standard Meucci clear over the wrap it almost looked blue. If nobody comes through and my dye idea doesn't pan out, I have a purple leather lizard print from Gill I may go with. I would rather keep it linen like the original though. Keep em coming, every idea helps.
 
meucci wrap

if you're gonna clear over the wrap,just go to a fabric store and get a coarse linen thread,that's all meucci did.ever tried pulling one off by unwrapping it,it breaks every 2 or3 inches.
 
Go to etsy.com and type in purple linen thread in their search box. 10 yards for $4.00. Many options

Good luck


DanO said:
I’m rebuilding a Meucci Original with a broken forearm. Replacing the forearm was the easy part. The A pin was off center so I removed it, plugged it, and moved on. I built the forearm oversized, double chucked the handle in my headstock, then turned the forearm concentric with the handle without using my tailstock. Forearm is dead nuts so I can now move on to the joint.

I have two questions. First, I want to match the joint ring which is white ish. I have ABS natural that is close, and also some Juma that has an ivory tint to it. I may also replace the shaft rings so it’s a perfect match but the butt has some white so I want to be close. Any suggestions on a good match?

My second dilemma is the original stain is PURPLE. I’m thinking of ordering some concentrated liquid water based dye for this. Also, I can’t find any all purple linen. I have a ton of ivory linen that I may try dyeing with the same stuff I’m planning on for the wood. Ideas?

Thanks gentlemen,
Long time stalker, small time contributor.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you for the response but all off those threads are Ø1mm thick which is double what I at least normally used for a cue. Keep em coming. I appreciate the effort.
 
on your linen, go to your local store and buy RIT dye in the color you need. apply wrap as usual,do not linen press it, then apply the rit dye directly to your linen with gloves and a lint free cloth, be sure to cover the cue at both ends with electrical tape and a couple wraps of cling wrap to protect the cue from the dye. works well and its easy.
 
I just returned from the store with the Rit, then read your post. I decided to dye the ivory linen before installing on my test piece. I think I’ll go this route on the final. The dye also looks like a perfect match for the maple. I applied 3 coats of the full concentrate on my test piece to get the color match. If you want to be surprised, Google “dye vs stain” and read the differences for wood applications.

Thanks to KJ finding me the perfect material match for the ivory ring, I now have the forearm reconstructed and ready to turn. Game on.
 

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looks very good , I am glad this cue is coming together for you. And yes, the rit also does a wonderful job on dyeing woods. For an unbelievable dye, try food coloring to dye wood, you will say No Way.
 
danieldakota53 said:
looks very good , I am glad this cue is coming together for you. And yes, the rit also does a wonderful job on dyeing woods. For an unbelievable dye, try food coloring to dye wood, you will say No Way.
Click to expand...

So you mix water with the RIT and the Food coloring and then surface dye the wood?....
 
rit dye alone or food coloring alone, both straight out of the bottle work well, if a lighter color is desired, yes, you can add water to thin them down. But each by themselves does an amazing job of coloring woods.
 
danieldakota53 said:
rit dye alone or food coloring alone, both straight out of the bottle work well, if a lighter color is desired, yes, you can add water to thin them down. But each by themselves does an amazing job of coloring woods.
Click to expand...

Just my 2 cents... I would recommend an alcohol based dye.... something on the order of TransTint liquid. No raised grain, and problems associated with water. Again this would only dye the surface, (not going all the way thru the wood) and with some woods there is some that resist dye, (depending on density / oil content) etc.

Personally I like my dye to go all the way thru the piece......but that's another story.
 
The new forearm is birdseye maple. I applied the Rit straight out of the bottle to test it while oversize. It took three undiluted coats to get the tone I’m after. I agree with no water.

I diluted the dye with hot water in a bowl, dyed the test linen for about 5 minutes, and then rinsed till the water was clear. I think longer will look slightly darker. I let it completely dry before wrapping on my test piece and pressing with starch.

The Rit website has a huge selection of color charts. When you click on any color it tells you what colors to mix to achieve that tone. The stuff is only $4 bucks at my local fabric store. Never thought I’d ever be typing “local fabric store”. :eek:
 
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