While I have done the same procedure to a pin to create a 'tap' as Ryan and now Dave describe,
I would like to offer a note of caution. A 'true' tap is oversize for a reason; it provides tolerance.
Converting a pin to a tap offers no such tolerance. Damage to the shaft can occur if care is neglected.
Not all pins of the same pitch are of the same exact OD. An undersize faux-tap coupled with an oversize
pin in the cue can be a dangerous combination. Excessive outward pressure could possibly split the shaft.
A lot of 'ifs' 'ands' & 'buts' here but neglect the caution and you could be replacing a $300 shaft.
I'll offer a few tips to lessen the danger.
You'll likely have to tap and re-tap the hole several times. Liberally coat the tap with wax each time.
The wax will reduce friction and will slightly soften the skin of the interior wood surface.
The orig. Asian ball-screw tap did as much to 'form' the thread as it did to cut the thread.
You'd want that interior wood to be somewhat malleable.
This next tip requires a higher degree of caution. While tapping under power, slightly side-load the tap.
Angulation of the tap will cause it to over-cut the hole to a varying degree.
This works in wood, not so much in steel.
This all may become a futile attempt to exercise my typing finger because the new version of the Asian
Ball-Screw thread tap is now available. Pretty fairly priced too. Let's see, where did I get that Abalone ?
HTHs, KJ