mini-Demo Progress: later rather than sooner

jjohnson

Registered
I had hoped it would only be weeks but it turned out to be about two and a half months.
But I have tightened up my technique considerably.
I still have much work to do.

I can see everything in this video that you can see but be assured, I will read everything you might care to offer.

I can make this shot 95% of the time or better. That is, I can make the object ball. But it is more difficult to consistently follow the object ball with the cue ball, more or less, straight into the pocket.

Probably not for most of y'all. But if you are where I was at just a couple of months ago, you might learn something.

I mentioned that this regulation table leaves much to be desired. The rails slouch. The cloth is lame.
On the last shot in the video you can really see the cue ball drift on the cloth.
But it serves its purpose for me to practice my shot-making technique.
Hope you don't get bored.

Forgot to mention, what matters is how straight the stroke is from the precise point of cue ball contact through to the exact point of cue ball release.

Again, the video will remain available for about 48 hours or so.
Thanks.

 
Last edited:
FWIW, you sweep from left edge to just about basic left english and hold. The hook in your stroke then takes it to center. Some might think this is a vision center error correction. To me it's an offset to correct the hook.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbb
FWIW, you sweep from left edge to just about basic left english and hold. The hook in your stroke then takes it to center. Some might think this is a vision center error correction. To me it's an offset to correct the hook.
Yes. I call it my "sway" stroke.
You should have seen it just a day or so ago.
I was too embarrassed to post a video sooner.
I know the basic reason for it.
I use the iterative process.
I incrementally approach the solution to such problems.
Closer and closer.
I am correcting it.
And when I do, I will become a shot-maker.
 
Forgot to mention, what matters is how straight the stroke is from the precise point of cue ball contact through to the exact point of cue ball release.
The cue tip is in contact with the cue ball for between 0.8 milliseconds and 2.0 milliseconds, depending on several factors.
the tip has to be moving in a straight line in that short a period of time.
what i mean is
the tip is ALWAYS moving in a straight line during that millisecond
whether that line is pointed in the correct direction is another different issue
btw
your success rate is impressive ...you never missed !!!!
 
The cue tip is in contact with the cue ball for between 0.8 milliseconds and 2.0 milliseconds, depending on several factors.

the tip is ALWAYS moving in a straight line during that millisecond
Yep. One of the most persistent pool myths is that something can change during the nearly instantaneous contact.

pj
chgo
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbb
The cue tip is in contact with the cue ball for between 0.8 milliseconds and 2.0 milliseconds, depending on several factors.
the tip has to be moving in a straight line in that short a period of time.
what i mean is
the tip is ALWAYS moving in a straight line during that millisecond
whether that line is pointed in the correct direction is another different issue
btw
your success rate is impressive ...you never missed !!!!
A subtle joke?

Circumstance: one hour practice session.

Anyway, I edited the video to show you only the shots I made where the cue ball followed
the object ball, basically, cleanly into the pocket.
As stated, I make the object ball at least 95% of the time overall.
Often the cue ball still goes into the pocket but bobbles one way or another.
The rest of the shots I make, the cue ball hits a rail and rebounds back out onto the table.
Very poor cue ball control.
Then there are times I simply fall asleep at the wheel.

The bottom line:
At cue ball address, the cue stick must be perfectly aligned straight along the shot-line.
In this case, from cue ball vertical centerline to object ball vertical centerline to pocket center.
Finally, ideally, the stroke must also be precisely along the shot-line from address through backswing,
transition, forward swing, cue ball contact, and cue ball release.

Simple: right?

If you can see the shot you can make the shot.
That is the Question.
 
A good drill drill is turning the screw on yourself. IOW start easier. Take balls in hand (other balls) (and no donuts) and place them a foot or so apart, anywhere inline with a pocket. NOW start drilling. Same intent, generally better results.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbb
Stop practicing that stroke. You need to take a lesson with an instructor so you can learn how to practice good mechanics. Your practice is just ingraining terrible mechanics. It's good to get video of yourself so that you can see what you are actually doing--rather than what you think you are doing--but you have to have some knowledge of what good mechanics are so that you can try to correct what you are seeing in the video.

The cue HAS to move in a straight line, and your tip should not go up on the follow through. Your tip should either remain level (the same height as when you address the ball) if your desire is to learn the piston stroke mechanics (harder), or your tip should finish on (or near) the cloth about 6 inches in front of the cue ball if you want to learn the pendulum stroke mechanics (easier and the mechanics which are most widely taught).

Making the object ball SHOULD NOT be your indicator of good mechanics. You can put two stickers on the cloth about 6 inches apart and on the shot line. One is for the cue ball, and the other is to monitor your follow through to see if your cue is moving in a straight line. Stroke the cue ball and freeze after you follow through. Stay frozen for five seconds. While you are frozen, examine whether your cue is over both stickers, i.e. is your cue directly above the shot line? If not, your cue is not moving straight. Also, examine where your tip ends up: is it higher, the same, or lower than your tip when you addressed the cue ball?

Instead of stickers, some people draw a chalk line from one end of the table into the heart of a corner pocket at the other end of the table, then they can put the cue ball and object ball anywhere on that shot line, and when they freeze on their follow through they can compare where their cue is relative to the shot line. They might start their practice with the object ball 10" from the pocket and the cue ball 10" from the object ball, then they practice moving their cue straight along the shot line. Once they can successfully do that, they increase the distances. An indicator of good mechanics is when the cue ends up directly over the shot line on the follow through.

Jerry Briesath has a one handed drill to teach you what it should feel like when you stroke the cue ball. You put a ball 10", or so, off the end rail, then using one hand, you rest the cue on the end rail and you try to pocket a ball directly into a corner pocket (you are not hitting a cue ball into the object ball). You slowly take the cue back, you pause at the end of your backstroke, then you smoothly accelerate the cue at the object ball, and on your follow through your cue hand should hit your chest. You will notice that your cue ends up on the cloth on the follow through.

Compare video of your stroke to video of Fedor Gorst's stroke. Are you doing even one thing the same as him? If not, you need to start trying to figure out how to do one thing the same as him. Once you can do one thing the same as Fedor Gorst go on to another thing. Try to emulate exactly what he is doing with his cue. It does not take feats of strength or athleticism to move a 19 oz stick a distance of 10". You can do it.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top