Moori Tip maintenance

[Bluey2King]

What is the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip? I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast. Also it does mushroom a little bit and I carefuly sand that and use the "V" part of the tool to give it a nice firm smooth finish.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

Any recomandations?
Thanks

 

[AZE]

[x] shaper tool
[x] Porper burnish/mushroom tool
[ ] "V" on ultimate tip tool
[ ] tip-tap.

Don't forget chalk!

 

[gregoryg]

Don't use it...

From what I've seen, those tools tear up layered tips. If you can, have a cue repair shop show you the safe and proper way to maintain your tip. There have been plenty of posts on AZ for all the advice you could ever want on tips. And yes, Moori's DO mushroom, only defense against it is pressing the tip before installation. Good luck keeping your Moori in shape.

 

[av84fun]

What is the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip? I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast. Also it does mushroom a little bit and I carefuly sand that and use the "V" part of the tool to give it a nice firm smooth finish.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

Any recomandations?
Thanks

I've been using Moori mediums for years and have never had ANY trouble with them.

I get SLIGHT mushrooming only after NUMEROUS racks. I would assume that those who get significant mushrooming frequently are simply hitting their shots too hard.

I use the Ultimate tool as well. Have for years. You are using it correctly but like me, you probably burnish too infrequently. Doing it every couple of days would be ideal.

Using the burnishing V may cause slight scratching on the ferrule unless you are very careful but that is mostly cosmetic unless you really grossly misuse it.

I especially like the "tapping grid" or whatever it's called. Actually, it is better to ROLL the grid onto the tip not tap it...but I like the fact that it is not a cluster of "pins" that penetrate the leather.

Regards,
Jim

 

[cubc]

I never have to shape my tip.. I tap it with that tool occasionally but thats it. When I used to shape it it would always change shape to the way I shot it seemed.. SO i just left it alone and it's fine.

 

[stikapos]

What is the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip? I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast. Also it does mushroom a little bit and I carefuly sand that and use the "V" part of the tool to give it a nice firm smooth finish.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

Any recomandations?
Thanks

Yeah. Put on another tip. Moori's are about as unpredictible as most women. Ugh.
tim

 

[Patrick Johnson]

Mooris shouldn't mushroom for long. After you've straightened up the sides once or twice you shouldn't have to do it any more. I don't recomment the burnishing "v" on the Ultimate Tip Tool; I've seen it pull more than one tip off. And I don't recommend using the sandpaper shapers too often; it will wear your tip down too fast. A Tip Pik works great for "texturing" the tip so it will hold chalk, without removing leather. Don't worry about hurting your tip with it; I've used a Tip Pik on layered tips for years and years - it doesn't hurt a thing if you just tap it straight into the leather without twisting.

pj
chgo

 

[Irish634]

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

I don't think I am alone when I say you shouldn't use a pick on a layered tip.

 

[miha]

try burnishing with a piece of microfiber or leather cloth between the V on the ultimate tip tool and the tip itself. you won't scratch the ferrule and still get a nice burnish. don't jam the tip too tight in it, i've seen `em get pulled off too.

 

[CocoboloCowboy]

What is the proper way to maintain my Moori med tip? I have been using the "Ultimate Tip Tool" putting it on the floor placing my tip in the dime dent and rubbing my hands back and forth on the shaft kinda like I was starting a fire but not so fast. Also it does mushroom a little bit and I carefuly sand that and use the "V" part of the tool to give it a nice firm smooth finish.

I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it.

Any recomandations?
Thanks

"I was talking to a guy and he said that you should never need to do anything to a Moori besides use a pick tool on it." <<<<<-----He gave you great advice.





I personally CRINGE the way some people over Tool Layered Tips, but the Cue Repair love these people.

I personally would never use the following Tools on a good layered TIP.

Ultimate Tip Tool, Tip Pick, or Pick Tools

I use the following for Tip Maintance, a Dime Willard VERY SPARINGLY for creating a radius. But your style of play will maintain you tips radius to your personal style of play. Cost is about $6.00.

150 Grit Sand Paper & 220 Grit Sand Paper to keep the tip rough when it gets a GLAZE on it and will not hold Chalk. 150 get use seldom, and 220 is the paper of choice.

For Mushroom Burnishing Porper make a wonderful tool to remove them, for under $5.00

Last item I carry is the Tip Tapper, and I do not use it as a File, I just tap the tip, and it again it will Break the GLAZE on on a Tip that will not hold Chalk. Cost is about $6.00.

BTW Chalk is slightly abrasive, and if you Chalk the Right Way you tips should last a very long time.

 

[chefjeff]

I don't think I am alone when I say you shouldn't use a pick on a layered tip.

That's been my experience, too. A slight tapping to help embed chalk maybe, but nothing too violent.

And when chalking, don't go up. That is, start at the center of the tip and chalk toward the edge. That keeps chalk from smooshing under the layers and having them come loose. This usually isn't a problem with the Moori's I've used but other layered tips come apart more easily if not careful.

fwiw,

Jeff Livingston

 

[1040worker]

I have a shaper burnisher I really like. It is a wood block with a routed out area in the perfect shape of a dime with industrial grade grit like you would see on a large belt sander. On the side of the wood block is a leather burnishing strip. It works better than anything I have ever used.
I got it from a cue dealer in CA. I think it is wolfbitecues. He was easy to work with and charged me $15.00 for a set of two, one was longer for shaping and the other was shorter for scuffing. I love it.

 

[Patrick Johnson]

I don't think I am alone when I say you shouldn't use a pick on a layered tip.

But why do you say it?

I've used nothing but a Tip Pik on many different brands of layered tips for years without a single problem. What do you think happens?

That's been my experience, too. A slight tapping to help embed chalk maybe, but nothing too violent.

What has been your experience? What does "too violent" mean? I tap hard with a Tip Pik and have never had a problem with any layered tip because of it.

pj
chgo

 

[av84fun]

try burnishing with a piece of microfiber or leather cloth between the V on the ultimate tip tool and the tip itself. you won't scratch the ferrule and still get a nice burnish. don't jam the tip too tight in it, i've seen `em get pulled off too.

Excellent idea. The tool does a fine job of burnishing with very little downward pressure. With proper use, there is no way it will pull a tip off...at least not one that has been glued properly.

Regards,
Jim

 

[Irish634]

But why do you say it?

I've used nothing but a Tip Pik on many different brands of layered tips for years without a single problem. What do you think happens?

You run the risk of very likely causing delam. Most layered tip manufacturers will tell you to simply scuff it with 80-120 grit.

 

[Spade]

I heard there's a new tip coming out that NEVER mushrooms and never has to be shaped.
I think maybe its Predator?

 

[av84fun]

You run the risk of very likely causing delam. Most layered tip manufacturers will tell you to simply scuff it with 80-120 grit.

I have seen numerous reports of what you are saying. I've never used a pik-type tool so I have no comment on them.

But one of the things I like about the Ultimate tool is that, instead of a pik it has a grid of "bumps" that do a fine job of roughing the tip but cannot penetrate the layers like pik tools can.

However, I would presume that used PROPERLY...i.e. avoiding excessive pressure on pik tools, they probably are fine.

I like the Ultimate because it combines shaping, burnishing and roughing and...used properly...does a fine job on all three.

Regards,
Jim

 

[socks]

But why do you say it?

I've used nothing but a Tip Pik on many different brands of layered tips for years without a single problem. What do you think happens?

pj
chgo

the very top layers are extremly thin and the points on tip picks are very sharp. if the point penetrates the layer of lether, which is very likely due to the thickness of the leather, it allows an air pocket to form between the layers which weakens the glue bond and then they seperate.

i've tried cue cubes and willard shapers and that long metal thing with the sand paper in it, but i still think the best tool is this:
http://www.walgreens.com/store/prod...jump&navCount=1&skuid=sku372260&id=prod372259

in regards to the mushrooming, once its at its full mushroom state, take it back to the guy that put it one, and ask him to trim the sides and reshape, i wouldnt image it costing more than $5 if anything and you shouldn't have any further issues with mushrooming.

 

[Patrick Johnson]

You run the risk of very likely causing delam.

Well, I use a Tip Pik on a layered tip at least once every time I play or practice. That amounts to literally thousands of times on dozens of layered tips - and never a problem of any kind. Guess "very likely" is different for different people.

pj
chgo

 

[Patrick Johnson]

the very top layers are extremly thin and the points on tip picks are very sharp. if the point penetrates the layer of lether, which is very likely due to the thickness of the leather, it allows an air pocket to form between the layers which weakens the glue bond and then they seperate.

So why has this never happened to me over thousands of uses? I think these are old wives' tales.

pj
chgo