Mushroom Tip, need advice.

tigerallenyim

Hate has no home here
Silver Member
I use a Triangle, medium hard tip.
Been having problems to where my tip mushrooms often.
Any tips on how I can prevent this from occuring, a tool that can modify the tip so it does not mushroom as often, modify my playing skills, or change the tip itself entirely to something different?

Thanks in advance!
 
tigerallenyim said:
I use a Triangle, medium hard tip.
Been having problems to where my tip mushrooms often.
Any tips on how I can prevent this from occuring, a tool that can modify the tip so it does not mushroom as often, modify my playing skills, or change the tip itself entirely to something different?

Thanks in advance!

I use a Triangle, and I haven't had much trouble with it. If it mushrooms once, I'd trim it (not just burnish it). I've been breaking with a Triangle for the last month or so, and even it isn't mushroomed; it's just flattening out.

If you like the hit, stick with it, I would say just trim it...it shouldn't be happening repeatedly...
 
I'm using Triangles myself, prefer them to laminated and others (about to try a milk dud though). Rarely I had same problems with mushrooming. When you yourself (or at a workshop) cut the sides of the tip to fit your ferrule diameter, make sure the sides are burnished then. Burnishing prevents from mushrooming.
 
Vahmurka said:
I'm using Triangles myself, prefer them to laminated and others (about to try a milk dud though). Rarely I had same problems with mushrooming. When you yourself (or at a workshop) cut the sides of the tip to fit your ferrule diameter, make sure the sides are burnished then. Burnishing prevents from mushrooming.

This is a good point. The tips on my cues are burnished (as part of the retipping).
 
Make sure whoever puts your Triangle tip on presses it in a vise for a few seconds before putting it on. This should eliminate most of the mushrooming. If it does mushroom never use those angled burnishers on the tip as it just pushes the mushroom back in and sponges up the tip. Take it to the repairman and have him trim the excess off. That should solve your problem.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
Porper Tool

tigerallenyim said:
I use a Triangle, medium hard tip.
Been having problems to where my tip mushrooms often.
Any tips on how I can prevent this from occuring, a tool that can modify the tip so it does not mushroom as often, modify my playing skills, or change the tip itself entirely to something different?

Thanks in advance!

Porper has a tool that works just like an old style pencil sharpener. You slide the ferrule into the end of the tool, turn the shaft and the excess gets shave right off. It works pretty slick.

Most places sell a greenish liquid specifically made made to use to burnish the sides of a tip. Use a Q-Tip to apply to the sides of the tip that has just been trimmed, rub that area until it shines and, voila, its burnished. I could be wrong, but it makes sense to me that all tips that are not real hard, will flatten out a bit over time and will need to be trimmed down and then burnished.
 
tigerallenyim said:
I use a Triangle, medium hard tip.
Been having problems to where my tip mushrooms often.
Any tips on how I can prevent this from occuring, a tool that can modify the tip so it does not mushroom as often, modify my playing skills, or change the tip itself entirely to something different?

Thanks in advance!

Hello, tips will always mushroom after new installation, this is normal. Leather tips will compress normally in the first two weeks,and they will need to be trimmed. Howver, you do not have to take your shaft to a repairmen to fix your problem. Buy yourself a Proper Little Shaver, it will cost you around $20. Below are photo's of this item and a short demonstration on how to use it.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

The last photo shows the tip with the mushroom removed. Then I would use some masking tape at the edge of the ferrule and the bottom of the tip. Apply Super Glue non-gel to the edge of the tip, leave it for about 30 seconds, then wipe it off. Lightly sand the edge of the tip smooth and burnish the edge. Last of all re-shape the tip and you are done.

The super Glue will help hold the edge of the tip, this process is very simple, there is no need to not take care of it yourself.

By the way, the Porper Little Shaver is a great tool, and it will last the average person many many years for this purpose
 
Ever since I started using layered tips (Talisman) mushrooming has been a non issue.

When I used to use LePro tips I would burnish the tip right after I put my cue together with a cardboard drink coaster. I would wet my finger and get the edge wet before wrapping the coaster around it and turned it quickly until is "Squeeked". It would leave it nicely burnished and would literally shine when it was done correctly.
 
Hello, My name is David and I would like to suggest to you the ATROX TOOL. I'm the VP of the manufacturer of the tool.
The SAC Channel of the tool is a smooth tapered channel and since the tool is hinged, you control the tension of the burnish. It will never scratch the ferrule and burnishes the tip perfectly. It can never ever snap the tip off. It's ten tools in one. There was a thread outlining the specs of the tool in a thorough product review of the ATROX TOOL. It also comes with a lifetime warranty.
Any handheld cutting tool really isnt the way to go at all for burnishing purposes unless you are shaping it. Other than that, a professional cue repairman who knows what they are doing will help.


You can see more about the product on our website www.killerstroke.com

And Here's the thread of the product review.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=54247

Thanks,David
 
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AHHHHH gotta love the tips that shroom out.

When I was usting le-pro, triangle, or Triumph, I'd run into a few of them that would mushroom out all the time, and what I would do is take the shaft to a friend of mine who has a lathe at his pool hall and he would trim up the tip and normally after the first trim, it never mushroom'd again.

When I went back to Moori tips, the same guy put it on and trim'd it up right away and the tip has yet to mushroom out.

Now if someone has a tip that is shroom'n out, I tell them they can do three things, scuff the tip down, or use the Ultimate tip tool, or goto my buddy and pay him 2$ to have it trimmed.

I also know some guys who get the tips, cut down before having it installed on the ferrule, which causes it to not mushroom out as much too, but then you also cut down on the life of the tip too.
 
StormHotRod300 said:
Now if someone has a tip that is shroom'n out, I tell them they can do three things,
#1 scuff the tip down,
or #2 use the Ultimate tip tool,
or #3 go to my buddy and pay him 2$ to have it trimmed.
#3 is the only choice you should give them if they are a friend. If you are about to play them in a tournament and don't like them suggest #2 and hope they twist their tip off. #1 will get the local cue repairman a ferrule job pretty soon.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
Hi tigerallenyim,

I used to get a 'shroomed tip myself and also a bunch of unexpected miscues because of it. I say 'unexpected', because I hardly use any more than 3/4 to 1 tip of English.

It's mainly due to my (old) grinding method of chalking: applying chalk using too much force, scraping the chalk from the cuetip's top to bottom. Unknowingly I'd remove the chalk off the edges of the cuetip which is essential for gripping the cueball when using English.

Also, I believe the edges of a mushroomtip can't hold chalk as well as a non-shroomed tip.

A cue-repairman I know, who himself plays with a Sniper tip (like I do), told me that shrooming is usually related to the way how you chalk the cuetip. Makes sense to me, since I used to grind the chalk from the tip's top to the bottom. If you do this a lot, you will flatten the cuetip and make it shroom over time.

Chalk is basically a piece of stone and grinds the cuetip. Since a cuetip is softer than stone, something's gotta give. That same cue-repair guy told me that a (Sniper) cuetip is so strong, it only wears out because of the chalking. You could go on playing with one cuetip for a long long time -I'm talking YEARS- if you didn't have to chalk.

The same cue-repair guy told me to 'wipe' on the chalk instead of forcing the chalk onto the tip. Now I hold the cube of chalk in my left hand, hold the cue pretty much horizontally, and put the cuetip in the cube and rotate the cue - without really pushing the cue into the chalk. Result: my ferrule is much cleaner, I have less miscues and the cuetip stays in shape.

My advice, if your cuetip is pretty flat/worn out, I'd replace it and start chalking without using (excessive) force. If you already chalk without forcing the chalk onto the tip, then forget I ever posted ;).

Also, chalk with your own cube of chalk. Your cube shouldn't have a deep 'hole' in it. It should have a hole similar to the hole it has (maybe slightly deeper), when you get one fresh out of the box. When the hole gets too deep, you might damage your ferrule when chalking.

In order to avoid this, once my cube gets worn out too much, I scrape the chalk on a pavement, getting rid of the edges and making the hole less deep again. This will ensure you will be able to wipe the chalk on the cuetip with ease.

I hope this helps.
 
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tigerallenyim said:
I use a Triangle, medium hard tip.
Been having problems to where my tip mushrooms often.
Any tips on how I can prevent this from occurring, a tool that can modify the tip so it does not mushroom as often, modify my playing skills, or change the tip itself entirely to something different?

Thanks in advance!

After reading this thread, I am a little surprised. There people who have the opinion, that chalking your cue can cause a tip to Mushroom(Not a chance). There are people who have the opinion that layered tips will never Mushroom(not a chance), and there are those who have the opinion that only trained Cue Repairman or Cuemaker can fix a Mushroomed tip(Not true).

Folks, tips Mushroom because of inconsistencies in the leather, whether they are layered or Non Layered. The concept of the layered tip is also simple, by combining and compressing thin stripes of treated Leather, you will get a more consistent tip throughout, however, they will still Mushroom.

All the word Mushroom means is to compress. This will happen for many reasons, soft leather, leather treated improperly, breaking / shooting every shot hard, or naturally by compressing through normal play.

Cueman, made the statement that by pressing the tip before installation, that this will reduce the amount that a tip will Mushroom. This is very true, in fact it hastens the natural process of compression that tips normally go through when used during play.

Cleaning up the edge of a tip to remove the Mushroom is not rocket science, this is very very basic maintenance, that everyone who plays pool should be able to accomplish, just like shaping a tip. By following the procedure I out lined in a previous post to this thread anyone can keep their tip ready for action themselves.

There are plenty of thing that players should not do themselves, but trust me this is not one them.

I truly hope this helps, and have a great night!!!!!!!
 
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The higher the profile of the tip the more chance of mushrooming. Try a lower profile on that triangle, maybe a little over a 1/16th of an inch. Burnish it in and you should be goos for a long time.
 
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