My first point forearm

Thanks SK for putting yourself and your first point forearm out there, a lot of really good information from the been there done that guys. You guys are very generous with your knowledge and it is appreciated. Thank you. Tony

SK, it will be fun to see how you progress, good luck and keep us posted.
 
Thank you everyone for you compliments... I have just finished my second one and the original intention was titlist veneers, but it didn't come out that way to me. Give me your opinions. Pink ivory points.

This one was so much better doing it the hightower method. I still have a ways to go until they're perfect. Much thanks to Dick for helping me with the jig idea.

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Looks much better. What looks to be the problem that you are having with this method is that each veneer needs to be cut, shaved, routed, sanded or what ever method that you use to trim the lower veneer prior to the next glue up must be done at a perfect 90 deg and perfectly flush. The way That I do this is with the use of a router table and a flush cutting pattern bit. The bearing runs along the adjacent veneer and trims the protruding veneer very flush. I have a router table, router and bit set up just for this very purpose and no other. I use it when I am going to use just one or sometimes two veneers. It really helps with eliminating the glue line and tear out at the very tip of the veneer point.

Dick
 
You are wasting a lot of wood there. You could email Bob Dzuricky and buy one of his jigs for cutting the point wood at a skew. Then you could get two sets out of that wood. You also don't need the wood to go all the way to the end of the veneers. I usually start with around 7 inches for point wood, of course, I have a lot of veneers when you include the papers, so my inner points are shorter. If I had only 3 veneers, I would start with 9 or 10 inches.
 
that's a good point on wasting wood on length and cutting each point with Bob's jig it can save a lot that's bold using pink ivory will practicing I have done a couple 2 veneer points and I might have got lucky but I use the same cutter for all of the cut's I use ts&p's bracket on my my midsize cuesmith with grizzly's V cutter I took a square piece of hard maple v cut it for veneer glue up between -C- then made a jig for cutting each veneer on the lathe between -C- and I cut in when forearm is about .940 and 1.25 on end and offset .425 and cut almost to center to help prevent tear out but its different for different machines or when in doubt and trying something new black is your friend on a little different subject I just did my first butterfly and WOW did I waste a lot of wood on that one but end result not too bad
 
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I believe I will do that. I saw Bob's video on that, and I was impressed. I am going to make a jig for the table saw first. Thanks Tony.
Tony Zinzola said:
You are wasting a lot of wood there. You could email Bob Dzuricky and buy one of his jigs for cutting the point wood at a skew. Then you could get two sets out of that wood. You also don't need the wood to go all the way to the end of the veneers. I usually start with around 7 inches for point wood, of course, I have a lot of veneers when you include the papers, so my inner points are shorter. If I had only 3 veneers, I would start with 9 or 10 inches.
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