Teeeten site show MSRP, sure you might find cheaper.
My first tip installation. Went south
- Thread starter smoochie
- Start date
Teeeten site show MSRP, sure you might find cheaper.
Back to the Porper mushroom tool. It has a vertical depth adjustment to prevent the blade from touching the ferrule. The key is take your time. It’s a hobby not a livelihood. And learn from practicing on expendable cues.Back when I did them by hand years ago I couldn’t bring myself to use a mushroom cutter, worries about getting into the ferrule corner haphazardly….You make a valid point on tips to start with. Triangle would be one like the lepro you mentioned. One thing I did do was hold the shaft vertically tip down when shaping elkmasters using a razor blade (exacto knife to be specific) slight pressure down on tip and I’d trim close and down in sections, kept me from pulling on the tip sides or flexing it causing distortion to it.
I always liked 15mm triangles they seemed to be denser…so with a typical shaft there was always a lot of over hang….so even today if I install one like that I’ll trim a lot off like I described before finishing it with the lathe.
If one isn’t careful and don’t set the backlash right the excess especially with a very soft side, will reach out and grab your tooling, pull the tool into it (the slack/backlash) as well as flexing the end of shaft and can snap or rip a ferrule and tennon off no problem.
Plenty of threads of this happening on here to various people over the past 2 decades. Happens real quick then you learn fast.
Just joking. But the real music is the sandpaper passing over the working surface
I use a 6 point socket that fits snugly over the ferrule if the tip is the same diameter as the shaft. I have never had a problem gluing the socket to my cue. If the tip is a larger diameter than the shaft it just has to be close to centered, trimming will take care of the rest.
Right. Except that's where I branch off. Instead of slicing the tip to size, I use a flat file to grind the tip to the ferrule. This is done by "clamping" the tip to the file with one hand and rotating the shaft with the other. Eliminates flat spots although you do get a slightly tapered tip. Needless to say, this method requires near perfect centering.
I only use the socket thing when an existing tip falls off (I had it happen twice, once my install, once a cue makers install, both times during a tournament). I happen to have a lathe, its a metal lathe but I made a Delrin collet so I can chuck up my cue, that's what I use to cut down an oversized tip. The rails on a Valley work great for burnishing the sides of the tip.
Lol. That's what I do except it requires the masking tape to get the diameter right. I know that takes all of 5 minutes but when I ran out of 14, I went to 13s and just pop them on. Any old angle iron works for that. The one I use is about a meter long
Picture something like that rack and pinion jar opener where the cue tip is the jar lid. Now it just needs something to get it centered on the shaft.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Damn, that's perfect!
That's where the short piece excels. I can get out to 10 inches or so but I have to hold on to the whole rig for the few seconds it takes the glue to set. Not that much of a problem for just the one tip. Then I just press the shaft tip first into the floor till the glue stabilizes.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Whether you have a lathe or do it by hand a Kiridashi knife is a great tool to have. You don't have to constantly buy new razor blades with this knife. It is easier to hold and control. It is flat on one side, and a few passes on the whetstone keeps it razor sharp.
I see in most of the "by hand" videos the tip sides are chopped down with a utility knife and leaves irregular bumps to be dealt with. Imo this knife seems easier and trims the sides flush and clean.
Here is a video, not Hollywood quality, but gets the point across:
Here is mine
I see in most of the "by hand" videos the tip sides are chopped down with a utility knife and leaves irregular bumps to be dealt with. Imo this knife seems easier and trims the sides flush and clean.
Here is a video, not Hollywood quality, but gets the point across:
Here is mine
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poolsparky
New member
Hope you were able to get your tip on. Yes, a cue lathe will make a huge difference. But it's costly if your only replacing your own tips. For me I have a cue repair lathe from Cue Man Billiards and I love it. But I do cue repair as well, so I was able to justify the expense. Maybe you could visit some Pawn shops in your area and find some cheep cues to practice on. It will take some time and the right products but you can do this with a little practice. Good luck!
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
^^^^ What he said.
If you can't find cheap enough cues, you can just buy a dowel rod for a couple of bucks. There isn't a ferrule, but if you are just practicing technique it's a cheap way to get started.
have you used it on an Elk master with any success?
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Have not tried Elk Master yet. I use a lathe and Triangle, Layered, Bulletproof, White Diamond have all come out great.
I did manage to have a successful second and third install..........I did a fourth install even better. All is good except the elk master is very hard to perfect its trim. But I did manage fine. However on my Revo my silencer got a little eaten up and I feel it's time to replace the silencer I am not going to touch that, so my next install going to have to be with a cue mechanic that should get me a new Revo silencer & a new tip. I was just playing around, to be honest, I like to learn, etc. That's basically what went down.
The silencer got worn because after I remove a tip, maybe I sanded more than I needed to clean it up which made the silencer thinner and thinner. Now I barely can see the red layer (Silencer). So yea I went to the mechanic and he said that he did not have the original Revo silencer (red) he said he got a similar one but brown color (A phenolic) material, he said the Revo silencer (red) is also a phenolic material. I know here I went on a tangent but is he correct? He said this brown that he has is similar to what "Ignite" uses. and if I want to install it underneath the new tip or not. Still undecided maybe ill check here then decided tomorrow when I am at the pool hall.
Cheers.
The silencer got worn because after I remove a tip, maybe I sanded more than I needed to clean it up which made the silencer thinner and thinner. Now I barely can see the red layer (Silencer). So yea I went to the mechanic and he said that he did not have the original Revo silencer (red) he said he got a similar one but brown color (A phenolic) material, he said the Revo silencer (red) is also a phenolic material. I know here I went on a tangent but is he correct? He said this brown that he has is similar to what "Ignite" uses. and if I want to install it underneath the new tip or not. Still undecided maybe ill check here then decided tomorrow when I am at the pool hall.
Cheers.