My New Diamond Professional!


The beams are the support, transferring the load to the floor through the legs. Either they are strong enough, or they aren't. The strength is dictated by the cross-section (mostly the height) of the beam. The only ways to get more support are: Larger beams; more legs (shorter unsupported span); stiffer beam material.
 
Read the entire thread. Hopefully you have a brain and can understand. With my Insomnia - I take Ambien - I was up all night Friday night, didn't get any sleep at all. Then after the 4.5 hour install that finished about 1:45 I was soooo tired and hungry I just couldn't hardly play. So, first things first. Which was to fix my lunch since I had not had anything to eat the whole day.
When can I come give you the 4 and out?
 
Look at photo 2 in the OP. The middle beam has the same amount of support as the beams on either side, in that it is resting on the arches at either end. The side beams do sit right over the feet, so I guess the question is if the arches are stiff enough so that they don't sag in the middle. I have the curved arches, and he has the squared off arches. The arches are deep, so very stiff.

Also the three long beams are all bolted to the short beams at each end of the table, so those cross beams would have to bend along with the arches.

Any floor that's not a concrete slab is much more likely to sag than the Diamond Pro table.
 
Here is a different angle on the Diamond pro. There is enough support for 3 sets of slates. The last possible thing I would be worried about is any sagging. The table is a tank!

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I think it has more to do with position and thickness. Nothing is gonna sag due to the slates being laid out across the width not the length. The slate frame “beams” are incredibly stout. The support it provides relative to the pound per square inch is surley overkill, and I respect that…

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I’ve had all the versions of the professional and never had a problem with the slate sagging, my current table is about 15 years old with the top being replaced with the blue label one piece slate a couple years later.
The table plays great no regrets!
I told them I did not want pockets that were having the problem with leaving marks on the balls and got brown pockets, I did put damping foam inn between the pocket and skirt.
I added the bridge holder aftermarket.
I got the pro cut pockets 4.5 corners, plays tough! My high run- 63 and trying hard to beat it but got old ha ha!
My only complaint is a few of the diamonds were poorly cut in, this is a diamondwood top.
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I’ve had all the versions of the professional and never had a problem with the slate sagging, my current table is about 15 years old with the top being replaced with the blue label one piece slate a couple years later.
The table plays great no regrets!
I told them I did not want pockets that were having the problem with leaving marks on the balls and got brown pockets, I did put damping foam inn between the pocket and skirt.
I added the bridge holder aftermarket.
I got the pro cut pockets 4.5 corners, plays tough! My high run- 63 and trying hard to beat it but got old ha ha!
My only complaint is a few of the diamonds were poorly cut in, this is a diamondwood top.View attachment 890793View attachment 890795View attachment 890797View attachment 890796View attachment 890798View attachment 890799
My Pro stayed dead level for over 25 yrs. (concrete slab) until I made the mistake of standing on the slate. Leather pockets never marked the balls either. Good thing I live alone, since I rather enjoy the pinball machine-like ‘crack’ sound when a ball hits the prototype return system. Instead of the aggravation of fishing for the rakes in the traditional under-table locations, my two spectator chairs have cue-holder slots where they are kept extra handy. Cute dog.
 
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