My Olhausen re-assemble project question.

tjlmbklr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I recently had my tables pockets shimmed (yes the right way). I disassembled the table and left the work of the rails extensions to the pro. When re-assembling the table I was very intricate on how I put it together. Making sure all pockets had an equal amount of pocket/slate showing, and also making sure the rails sited down on both ends were true (not angled in or out from side pockets). Also making sure the corners were 90 degrees. How ever I noticed when I went to measure to distance from the inside of the rail cushion to the opposite end, it was 44.25" all the way down the length of the table. Now I know there is a margin of error +/- from the specs of 44" on the true playing surface of an 8ft table. But the 44.25" isn't my concern; the length is 88.125. Should it be 88.5 to be in specs. to the fact that a table should be twice the length as the width. I wish I would've measured the table before hand to see if it was like this before. So what is an acceptable margin of difference here? Should I be concerned? I have the leather drop pockets tight to the rail pieces (maybe I can squeeze a 1/16" more if I really tried)

Any tips on how I can get the table dead nuts? I am anal-retentive with precision sometimes!
 
tjlmbklr said:
Any tips on how I can get the table dead nuts?

Normally there's a bit of play in the rails to allow some adjustment. I'd suggest loosening the rail bolts and pocket retention bolts (bolt that goes thru the rail into the pocket iron) and giving it another go to get dead on 44" X 88" which is the correct measurement for an 8' table. In reality there is no margin for error. Make sure to tighten the rail bolts first before doing the pocket bolts.
 
Dartman said:
Normally there's a bit of play in the rails to allow some adjustment. I'd suggest loosening the rail bolts and pocket retention bolts (bolt that goes thru the rail into the pocket iron) and giving it another go to get dead on 44" X 88" which is the correct measurement for an 8' table. In reality there is no margin for error. Make sure to tighten the rail bolts first before doing the pocket bolts.


Sounds like where I was leaving my next step. The one thing I am confused on is; the pocket retention bolts cannot be accessed after the the rails are in place. So therefore any play that can be aquired in these bolts will have to be done before I tighten down the rails. So if I end up moving too much I have to loosen the the whole thing again to see if I can get those retension bolts to where I need them.

One thing I was consisdering trying was keeping all the pieces together like I saw the table mechanics do at the poolhall (Gold Crowns) and flipping it over. Then get the distance length and width right then flip it back and bolt them down. Aside from needing a second set of hands; is this an option?
 
A very useful "tool" to have is a stretch of 2" PVC pipe (or a 2 x 4) cut and sanded smooth to exactly the width of your playing surface. With the rails loosened up, you can adjust them until the pipe just touches the cushion on each side as you roll it down the table. Lay it in the grove against the cushion to make sure it is true across the side pockets. Then set the length exactly using a tape measure. I would think it best to do off-table, if the holes thru the slate are fairly accomodating.
 
I wouldn't do it like that, the area in the rail where the pocket attaches is thin,it may break. Even doing it to Gold Crowns can work them loose over time.

Attach 1 left and 1 right rail to the head/foot rails,(U shape) attach the middle pockets to one of the 2 sections ,install all the rail studs in one section and just in the end rail on the other section, drop the one with the pockets and all the rail bolts right into place and the other you slide on to the pocket irons and the drop it down into posistion, install the remaining rail bolts,adjust the posistion like you did before,eye the long rails,snug all the bolts,check to make sure they are still straight and tighten them down.

When the rails are snug before you tighten them down make sure the middle pockets are tight against the rails, if not bump them from the end to tighten the gap if any, thats how I do it , hope this helps.
 
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In my opinion, its more important to have the rails square than exactly 44 x 88. If this is a home table and you have #6 pockets, just make sure your side rails are in line with each other and your end rails are square with the side. you might damage something trying to force it.
 
I don't understand why you can't access the pocket retention bolts/screws along with the rail bolts. With everything loose you should be able to get the correct dimensions then tighten it all down.
 
sdbilliards said:
In my opinion, its more important to have the rails square than exactly 44 x 88. If this is a home table and you have #6 pockets, just make sure your side rails are in line with each other and your end rails are square with the side. you might damage something trying to force it.

I'm wondering if he has any gap between the rail and the pocket leather.
 
Thanks a lot guys. Tomorrow is the day I have dedicated to rip it all apart again (to an extent) to see where I can fix my issues. I'll post if I have any issues.
 
Dartman said:
I'm wondering if he has any gap between the rail and the pocket leather.

^^^^^
I do now.

And to answer your other question, I can only see the pocket retension bolts when the rail bolts are loose. Thus meaning I have to pull them outward to access them. then loosen them, move them where I think they should be, then put rail back into posistion.

Here is a post I started on my curious concern on if my table isn't the only one that is off.

I recently had my rails extended to tighten my pockets. I went a 1/2" from stock. My table is a Leather drop pocket Olhausen standard 8'. I know the playing surface is supposed to be 44"X88". But most important it should be twice the width as the length. Well my table after hours trying to get it correct is 44.25(1/4)"x 88.375(3/8)" so I am one 1/8 inch off on my length. And the width is the tightest I can get it. I am square all around the table and all the pockets seem to be showing the same amount of opening. when I first put the table together I was more then a 1/4" off on the length. To compensate I now have small gaps between the pockets and rail ends that bother me.

So this brings me to my question, is the 1/8" acceptable, it was much more before hand. I however didn't measure it before I originally dis-assembled it, so I don't know where it was before. So I am asking all that are willing to help a fellow AZ'er to measure your tables cushion tip to cushion tip length to width on any size table and post your results. My goal is to hopefully not be discouraged when I find out that I am not the only one that is of a few %.

Thank you all in advance

TJ


Original Thread
 
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At this point I'd suggest undoing the rail bolts and then readjust each pocket to be flush with the rail edge (no gap). The pocket gap all around is most likely the cause for the rails not having the correct play area dimensions.

I doubt your situation is unusual and would guess there's many home tables that are off by a few CH's.
 
Dartman said:
At this point I'd suggest undoing the rail bolts and then readjust each pocket to be flush with the rail edge (no gap). The pocket gap all around is most likely the cause for the rails not having the correct play area dimensions.

I doubt your situation is unusual and would guess there's many home tables that are off by a few CH's.


I was
torn between having a pristine looking table, or a table that is dimensionally correct. I decided the dimensions were the wiser choice. I may now have a little gap between some pockets and the rail, but I know the table is playing true.

I guess my quest was more to see if my issue on a table that isn't a top of the line was normal.

Thanks again to all for your help.
 
IMO - if you shoot down to an Olhausen dealer I doubt you will find tables in the showroom with gaps between the pockets and rails. Consider that any gap will most likely increase either the length or the width (or both) of the finished rail assembly. If you spend the time to eliminate the gaps you have I would think you could get the playing surface to the correct dimensions. At times working with pool tables takes some extra perseverence to get it right.

BTW - Olhausen makes a very nice table. Not exactly the best but up there with the good ones and a far cry from the imports.
 
Dartman said:
IMO - if you shoot down to an Olhausen dealer I doubt you will find tables in the showroom with gaps between the pockets and rails. Consider that any gap will most likely increase either the length or the width (or both) of the finished rail assembly. If you spend the time to eliminate the gaps you have I would think you could get the playing surface to the correct dimensions. At times working with pool tables takes some extra perseverence to get it right.

BTW - Olhausen makes a very nice table. Not exactly the best but up there with the good ones and a far cry from the imports.

In theory that makes sense, but I would have to have the strength of a few large men squeezing the whole thing together while I tightened the bolts. and I know it would still fall short of it's marks.

It just can't go any tighter then it will, so therefore i have to actually lengthen to get the "twice the length as the width" theory to work.

TJ
 
table

Tj, it sounds like you have solved your problems. Remember i told you that table mechanics do not make a fortune at this but it pays the bills. This is what i am talking about. It seems like we are always fixing the mistakes.
Hey, i just wanted to say that that is a nice picture if you and your wife.
Keep up the good work on the newly wed side and i hope to see you later.
Thanx, Ron
 
LCCS said:
Tj, it sounds like you have solved your problems. Remember i told you that table mechanics do not make a fortune at this but it pays the bills. This is what i am talking about. It seems like we are always fixing the mistakes.
Hey, i just wanted to say that that is a nice picture if you and your wife.
Keep up the good work on the newly wed side and i hope to see you later.
Thanx, Ron


Those are very kind words Ron; thank you!
 
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