Need Advice For Refinishing Maple Shaft and Shaft Maintenance

E

Eric M.

Member
I have 2 cues with Maple shafts that are starting to show some age. They are nothing special but are straight and have some nice tips so I'd like to keep around.

One is pretty rough at the last 12". Is a light sanding and a few coats of Deft 01701 Interior Brushing Lacquer suitable or is there something specific I should be using for cue shafts?

The other is still fairly smooth. What do you use to clean, polish, preserve Maple shafts? I see a few products out there but wonder if they are really any good?

Thanks,

Eric M.
 
Lacquer- shaft = no beuno.
Ymmv. I sand 220 to 1000. ( 1000 will clog pours for smoothness) finish with carnuba car wax. Smells great and easily workable and buffable.
 
751592d9996c7c97dc5963d293e8462a.jpg

You might get what you want by buying a shaft maintenance kit like this one from McDermott. I like it! It keeps the shafts looking good and super smooth.


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Eric M. said:
I have 2 cues with Maple shafts that are starting to show some age. They are nothing special but are straight and have some nice tips so I'd like to keep around.

One is pretty rough at the last 12". Is a light sanding and a few coats of Deft 01701 Interior Brushing Lacquer suitable or is there something specific I should be using for cue shafts?

The other is still fairly smooth. What do you use to clean, polish, preserve Maple shafts? I see a few products out there but wonder if they are really any good?

Thanks,

Eric M.
Click to expand...
How rough are they? Is it grain lifting or is it dings?

If it is just grain lifting, grab some 800 sandpaper and sand in long strokes with the grain, turn the shaft a bit between strokes. When it is smooth, move on to 1200, and maybe 2000.

My advice above will likely generate a bunch of responses about ovaling the shaft, or putting an hourglass shape to it, or a bunch of other bs, but I'm not suggesting a person be ham fisted about it. 800 won't take much off, it will remove the high spots quickly and that is when you stop and move on to finer paper.

I use a shellac on my shafts, maybe a 1lb cut mix. I apply right before final sanding.

I never use any waxes, or cueslick or that type of garbage on my personal shafts. I will occasionally buff my shafts with a brown paper grocery bag.
 
Lawnboy77 said:
751592d9996c7c97dc5963d293e8462a.jpg

You might get what you want by buying a shaft maintenance kit like this one from McDermott. I like it! It keeps the shafts looking good and super smooth.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I agree with the buffing sheets. I don't disagree with the other products, but I don't like how they make a shaft feel. Just personal preference.
 
Sneakyjumper said:
Lacquer- shaft = no beuno.
Ymmv. I sand 220 to 1000. ( 1000 will clog pours for smoothness) finish with carnuba car wax. Smells great and easily workable and buffable.
Click to expand...
220?????????? Ever other stroke will be millimeter smaller. WAAAAAAY to rough. MAYBE 600 if really grimy. First off, clean it with MagicEraser wet with 91%alc. Will remove blue but won't pop the grain. After that remove small dents by using spit, steam, hot water. Hit it a few times with 800/1000/1200. Done. No additives. Maybe CueSilk but thats it.
 
garczar said:
220?????????? Ever other stroke will be millimeter smaller. WAAAAAAY to rough. MAYBE 600 if really grimy. First off, clean it with MagicEraser wet with 91%alc. Will remove blue but won't pop the grain. After that remove small dents by using spit, steam, hot water. Hit it a few times with 800/1000/1200. Done. No additives. Maybe CueSilk but thats it.
Click to expand...

I never suggest stream for ding removal. I find it funny that the same people who say that you shouldn't leave a cue in a hot car will suggest putting an iron to a small portion of their shaft.

Most minor dings can be minimized by putting a drop of water in the doing and letting it sit overnight.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
I never suggest stream for ding removal. I find it funny that the same people who say that you shouldn't leave a cue in a hot car will suggest putting an iron to a small portion of their shaft.

Most minor dings can be minimized by putting a drop of water in the doing and letting it sit overnight.
Click to expand...
That works on really small ones but it normally takes multiple applic. to pull one. I've used steam on larger dents for years and have never damaged a shaft yet.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
How rough are they? Is it grain lifting or is it dings?
Click to expand...
Just grain lifting.
Do you think the Lacquer will be as good as the Shellac? I have both in the shop. I'm more of a fan of Lacquer for the projects we do .... but we aren't finishing cue shafts!
 
Eric M. said:
Just grain lifting.
Do you think the Lacquer will be as good as the Shellac? I have both in the shop. I'm more of a fan of Lacquer for the projects we do .... but we aren't finishing cue shafts!
Click to expand...
Don't use any of that crap on a good cue shaft. Just clean off the bluing, sweat out any dings then sand with 600/800/1000/1200. All you need to do. If you want you can use Qwax or any good carnuba to wax it. Not needed tho.
 
Eric M. said:
Just grain lifting.
Do you think the Lacquer will be as good as the Shellac? I have both in the shop. I'm more of a fan of Lacquer for the projects we do .... but we aren't finishing cue shafts!
Click to expand...

I don't like lacquer on the shaft. I use shellac only to partially fill the grain, not as a coating.

I like the feel of burnished wood, so I don't want a fully sealed shaft. I also have dry hands and don't live in a high humidity area.

If you build up shellac to an actually clear coat, I fear it would get cloudy due to the moisture in your hands. If you want to seal the cue for moisture protection, I would use renaissance wax or carnauba and burnish aggressively.
 
I would definitely not start out with anything less than 400 sandpaper unless you really want to reduce a fat shaft quickly. I usually start off by hitting lightly with some 400, then 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, then 2000 and up to about 2500 or even 3000 sandpaper. After that a light coat off sanding sealer, and possibly a little wax. That does it, I do this on a cue lathe type device so I can get the shaft spinning for this procedure.
 
Also, for small dents, I've always used tea kettle steam and then a very small piece of paper towel saturated with scalding hot water to be put over small dented area of the shaft.
 
Don't steam/use hot water if shaft is laminated. I just use a toothpick and put a little water/spit right in the dent. Might take take a few tries but small ones will come out like this.
 
Another vote for MagicEraser wet with alcohol to get the blue out and smoothing the shaft slightly. Then finish with a drop of RainX (for car windshields) rubbed in briskly with a paper towel. The RainX leaves the shaft almost too slick.
 
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