Need Advice For Refinishing Maple Shaft and Shaft Maintenance

Texas Carom Club said:
a good shaft for 15 bucks? where let me know!!!
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I'm in CA. Don't nobody do anything for $15! That's 2 cups of "Fancy" coffee with attitude or a little less than 3 gallons of gas! Outside of CA I'm looking at $15 shipping each way so now I am up to $45. As I said, this isn't a special cue. e-Bay has Maple shafts for $39.99 w/ free shipping and J&J will sell you one for $35 if you ask for a discount (he always discounts if you e-mail him) and $15 shipping. If you know of someone in CA, I'll certainly reach out. If you know of someone outside of CA, I'll see what they charge. I do have the tip I'd like to preserve so it may be worth it.

I like to do things myself and usually have pretty good luck if I do my research. It looks like everyone will agree sanding in steps up to 2000 or more. Then wax. I don't like the idea of a bare shaft. I know with winter around the corner and my sweaty hands, that won't work. If the wax is an issue, I'll resand and try the sanding sealer or Shellac.

Best part is all this stuff is in my shop. Other than time, this won't cost a thing. I'll report back.
 
Eric M. said:
I'm in CA. Don't nobody do anything for $15! That's 2 cups of "Fancy" coffee with attitude or a little less than 3 gallons of gas! Outside of CA I'm looking at $15 shipping each way so now I am up to $45. As I said, this isn't a special cue. e-Bay has Maple shafts for $39.99 w/ free shipping and J&J will sell you one for $35 if you ask for a discount (he always discounts if you e-mail him) and $15 shipping. If you know of someone in CA, I'll certainly reach out. If you know of someone outside of CA, I'll see what they charge. I do have the tip I'd like to preserve so it may be worth it.

I like to do things myself and usually have pretty good luck if I do my research. It looks like everyone will agree sanding in steps up to 2000 or more. Then wax. I don't like the idea of a bare shaft. I know with winter around the corner and my sweaty hands, that won't work. If the wax is an issue, I'll resand and try the sanding sealer or Shellac.

Best part is all this stuff is in my shop. Other than time, this won't cost a thing. I'll report back.
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Most cuemakers will re-finish a shaft for around 50bux. Last time i ever had one done (8yrs) it was around 35ish iirc.
 
Eric M. said:
I'm in CA. Don't nobody do anything for $15! That's 2 cups of "Fancy" coffee with attitude or a little less than 3 gallons of gas! Outside of CA I'm looking at $15 shipping each way so now I am up to $45. As I said, this isn't a special cue. e-Bay has Maple shafts for $39.99 w/ free shipping and J&J will sell you one for $35 if you ask for a discount (he always discounts if you e-mail him) and $15 shipping. If you know of someone in CA, I'll certainly reach out. If you know of someone outside of CA, I'll see what they charge. I do have the tip I'd like to preserve so it may be worth it.

I like to do things myself and usually have pretty good luck if I do my research. It looks like everyone will agree sanding in steps up to 2000 or more. Then wax. I don't like the idea of a bare shaft. I know with winter around the corner and my sweaty hands, that won't work. If the wax is an issue, I'll resand and try the sanding sealer or Shellac.

Best part is all this stuff is in my shop. Other than time, this won't cost a thing. I'll report back.
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Does your shop have a wood lathe? If so, if it is long enough, pm me and I can give you some tips to safely hold the shaft centered so you can run it for maintenance.

Then you can do it for others, which will lead to doing tips, then conversions, then plain Janes, pretty soon you will be stockpiling wood and tools and hanging out arguing in the ask the cuemaker subforum.

Sometimes it's actually cheaper to pay someone, but I applaud your diy spirit. You'll get it, you won't ruin anything, it'll be fun and gratifying.
 
try magic eraser as mentioned. usually ppl are surprised the first time on how effective it is.

also, sandpaper 3000-7000 can be difficult to find in hardware stores, but is easy to find online
 
Eric M. said:
I'm in CA. Don't nobody do anything for $15! That's 2 cups of "Fancy" coffee with attitude or a little less than 3 gallons of gas! Outside of CA I'm looking at $15 shipping each way so now I am up to $45. As I said, this isn't a special cue. e-Bay has Maple shafts for $39.99 w/ free shipping and J&J will sell you one for $35 if you ask for a discount (he always discounts if you e-mail him) and $15 shipping. If you know of someone in CA, I'll certainly reach out. If you know of someone outside of CA, I'll see what they charge. I do have the tip I'd like to preserve so it may be worth it.

I like to do things myself and usually have pretty good luck if I do my research. It looks like everyone will agree sanding in steps up to 2000 or more. Then wax. I don't like the idea of a bare shaft. I know with winter around the corner and my sweaty hands, that won't work. If the wax is an issue, I'll resand and try the sanding sealer or Shellac.

Best part is all this stuff is in my shop. Other than time, this won't cost a thing. I'll report back.
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Be careful with those $39 e-bay shafts. I got a couple recently. I had no problem with the shaft itself, but I ended up replacing the joint ring, ferrule and tip.

If you can't get a simple cleaning for $15-20 I'd suggest getting out of CA lol.

If you really can't get it done locally, then order a maintenance arbor for your shaft and use your drill to spin it at home.
 
skogstokig said:
try magic eraser as mentioned. usually ppl are surprised the first time on how effective it is.

also, sandpaper 3000-7000 can be difficult to find in hardware stores, but is easy to find online
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just make sure to wet the ME with 91%alc and not 70%. 70% will pop the grain.
 
Rain-X eh? Hmmmmmmm……
I realize that I live in the past, but on a bare wood shaft,a gentle rub with a big ball of 000-0000 steel wool followed by some Zippo lighter fluid on a paper bag or paper towel rubbed in until the shaft feels a bit warm has worked for me.
I’ve upgraded from the steel wool to the magic eraser and alcohol.
On shafts with a clear coat….. quality car wax.

Rain-X eh?
:)
 
Mr Machine said:
Rain-X eh? Hmmmmmmm……
I realize that I live in the past, but on a bare wood shaft,a gentle rub with a big ball of 000-0000 steel wool followed by some Zippo lighter fluid on a paper bag or paper towel rubbed in until the shaft feels a bit warm has worked for me.
I’ve upgraded from the steel wool to the magic eraser and alcohol.
On shafts with a clear coat….. quality car wax.

Rain-X eh?
:)
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I tried lighterfluid in the past and all it did was turn the chalk into a blue goo. Magic Eraser and 90%alc is waaaaay better. I did one the other day and it looks almost like new.
 
I used the lighter fluid after the chalk was gone :dunno:
I never got my shafts really blue, never figured out why.
:dunno:
 
1. Does burnishing with leather seal the shaft? For instance, can you use a Magic Eraser with 90% IPA, let dry, then burnish with a piece of leather to seal the shaft.

2. If you use 70% IPA, and that lifts the grain, then what? Burnish with leather? Or, do you have to sand the shaft?

3. What steps does a good cue repair person take when cleaning a shaft for $35-50?
 
OK,

I started out with 600 grit. I realized there was still plenty of the factory finish even though this cue is probably 40 years old. 240 grit would be way too rough. If fact, the only reason I started with 600 is this cue was rough. I doubt anyone would let their cue go this far. I got it used so will blame the previous owner! From there I went to 1000. As mentioned above, you're not sanding down a weathered picnic bench, this sanding goes very quickly, it doesn't take long at all. The shaft felt like new. For those of you suggesting just sanding, I can see your point. I then went to the car wax. the wax ended up raising the grain in some of the worse areas. Another light sanding with 1000 grit and another coat of wax and this shaft feels like new.

For the other cue that was in much better shape, I did a quick sanding with 1000 grit. I probably could have gone to 1500 and maybe 2000 and been done with it. I went from 1000 grit to 2 coats of Rain X. Again, feels like new.

Some people mentioned not liking that super slick slide of the Rain X or wax. I like it, the less I feel on my bridge, the better. For those, maybe do the sanding with 1000 and give it a try. 1500 or 2000 if you need it a bit more slick.

Thanks for the help. I'm glad I asked before pulling out the Lacquer. This was much simpler and faster than I imagined.
 
Here is my routine:
  1. magic eraser sheets (I buy cheap knockoffs from amazon and cut them in half), with or without white gas / denatured alcohol

    Amazon.com

    www.amazon.com
  2. maybe some shaft cleaner / polish
  3. Q-Wiz Shaft Cleaner and Burnisher (again from amazon, I like how you can wash it off and reuse it)

    Amazon.com

    www.amazon.com
I haven't resealed a shaft in the 35+ years I've been playing. The RainX seems like an interesting idea but possibly too many chemicals for what simple sealing wax can do naturally?

Also, I've been cleaning my tips off with a paper napkin each time I play, which noticeably keeps my case and shafts much cleaner.
 
All of these comments are interesting. I am lucky enough to have a guy at my store. If you are loyal to the store, they are pretty loyal to you...
Tip replacements cost me 20rmb, service my shafts 50rmb (basically less than 10$...)

I think this is literally the only context that I think Carbon takes on a wood shaft and wins. None of this faff. Can batter someone with a carbon shaft, and then use it straight after. No dings...
 
First, I would find out why my shafts are getting dirty. When I have a tip put on, I don't want the shaft or ferrule touched if possible. If it is a good shaft don't ruin it.
 
If you want a white shaft, Soft Scrub will do it.

A Mr. Clean Eraser will also clean a majority of the gunk off.

If you want to remove a ding, heat a quarter cup of water in your microwave and when it boils dip a Q-Tip in and press it to the ding. Two to four tries will get most dings out. After, run a drinking glass back and forth over the ding spot and finish with some 3000 grit sandpaper, available at Home Depot.

Lou Figueroa
 
Everyone has their own technique.

Mine is to put a small piece of paper towel wet on the dents and let it sit for a while. Looks like a bad shaving day. Then I press a hot curling iron so the steam rises up and finishes the job. Sand down with 1000-3000 to smooth the grain down.

Works quick and easy.

IMG_6807.jpeg
 
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