need opinions

[olauzon]

i have a predator like butt, brownish cocobolo w/green veneers, the typical thin butt cap. could be falcon or a lam, wood to wood uni-lock played with ob-1. I'd like to have a few things done to it.

i'd like a butt cap made of some white phenolic material with a quarter, or something silverish, inserted in the back. i'd also like the joint collar to be white phenolic as well. i would definitely consider options of joints but don't want this cheap shooter go through the roof. i'm not specific on the phenolic material, this stick needs a slightly stiffer hit and gone with the predator look.

lastly, i'd like one of my ob-1 shafts ferrule to be shortened. red pad and sniper (re-using the existing 3 hour new tip) j/k

what kind of price range am i looking at here? i am open for ideas. this stick is shooting really nice as it is but looks like crap and i want to stiffen it up a smack.

pehr

cheers

 

[RDCustomCues]

This is not going to be a real cheap mod. And you will have to replace the tip if your shortning the ferrule as well. Unless j/k is just kidding sorry new to some this net slang. You may be looking at a refinish as well. If so your most likely going to have more in this cue then what its worth. With that said if you want to keep the cue and that does not matter several of us can help.

 

[olauzon]

i already do. i'm not looking for resale value, this will be with me. i'm looking to perfect the hit, as good as it can be given the woods, and to give it.. lets just say an 'off' predator look of the butt; not necessarily sneaky. the cosmetics of this stick is not that important, i just want it to look a little better (not hard) and hit slightly stiffer

ps. by perfect i mean as good as this one can get or close

 

[KJ Cues]

i have a predator like butt, brownish cocobolo w/green veneers, the typical thin butt cap. could be falcon or a lam, wood to wood uni-lock played with ob-1. I'd like to have a few things done to it.

i'd like a butt cap made of some white phenolic material with a quarter, or something silverish, inserted in the back. i'd also like the joint collar to be white phenolic as well. i would definitely consider options of joints but don't want this cheap shooter go through the roof. i'm not specific on the phenolic material, this stick needs a slightly stiffer hit and gone with the predator look.

lastly, i'd like one of my ob-1 shafts ferrule to be shortened. red pad and sniper (re-using the existing 3 hour new tip) j/k

what kind of price range am i looking at here? i am open for ideas. this stick is shooting really nice as it is but looks like crap and i want to stiffen it up a smack.

pehr

cheers

Hello Sir,
I can do what you are asking and I have the mtrls. in stock. If you're not looking for a total re-finish I think I can keep the cost under $100. I'm currently doing a cue such as you've described for one of Seybert's clients. I'm mating a Predator shaft to it, however that cue will get a total re-finish as per the clients instructions. One thing that got my attention on that cue is that the points were brought in line with a ball-point pin. That may be a little tricky for the re-finish.

Anyway, if you're interested, drop me a PM. Thanx Much, KJ

 

[WheatCues]

i have a predator like butt, brownish cocobolo w/green veneers, the typical thin butt cap. could be falcon or a lam, wood to wood uni-lock played with ob-1. I'd like to have a few things done to it.

i'd like a butt cap made of some white phenolic material with a quarter, or something silverish, inserted in the back. i'd also like the joint collar to be white phenolic as well. i would definitely consider options of joints but don't want this cheap shooter go through the roof. i'm not specific on the phenolic material, this stick needs a slightly stiffer hit and gone with the predator look.

lastly, i'd like one of my ob-1 shafts ferrule to be shortened. red pad and sniper (re-using the existing 3 hour new tip) j/k

what kind of price range am i looking at here? i am open for ideas. this stick is shooting really nice as it is but looks like crap and i want to stiffen it up a smack.

pehr

cheers

If I'm reading your request correctly, you want a new butt-plate, new joint collar, which will require refinishing and replace existing tip after shortening and replacing ferrule with existing tip....

A Piece of cake !

95.00 + Shipping and work is guaranteed ! with combo discount !

Call anytime if you have any questions.....


Thanks, Eddie Wheat -East Coast Cue Repair 321-631-1827

 

[Cue Crazy]

One thing that got my attention on that cue is that the points were brought in line with a ball-point pin. That may be a little tricky for the re-finish

I've seen a few SPJ's done that way. Looks like they stuck with the original centers on the blank, and then evened the points with a marker or pen before finish if the points didn't hold after turning the OD. It's pretty common on those from what I've seen.

 

[masonh]

i have seen some high end cues like that as well.the top of the outside veneer is just drawn in with a pen.

 

[WheatCues]

i have seen some high end cues like that as well.the top of the outside veneer is just drawn in with a pen.

That's why I can really appreciate Ryan's "Rat Cues" work from Meuller he builds his rings very well... his slots are very deep and never has to worry about run-out with the veneers !

That's thinking ahead.... or learning from experience ! either way the end result is authentic !


- Eddie Wheat

 

[Cue Crazy]

That's why I can really appreciate Ryan's "Rat Cues" work from Meuller he builds his rings very well... his slots are very deep and never has to worry about run-out with the veneers !

That's thinking ahead.... or learning from experience ! either way the end result is authentic !


- Eddie Wheat

Hi Eddie, Maybe You knew and were just comenting on rings. We were talking about the veneers in the points, but speaking of cutting deeper slots in rings. I have done that also, and you still have to worry about runout showing up in those. Yeah no worries about fading the billet strips out, but It can show up in the spacing between the slots.

Greg

 

[WheatCues]

Hi Eddie, Maybe You knew and were just comenting on rings. We were talking about the veneers in the points, but speaking of cutting deeper slots in rings. I have done that also, and you still have to worry about runout showing up in those. Yeah no worries about fading the billet strips out, but It can show up in the spacing between the slots.

Greg

Oh my bad... I misinterpreted the posts..... please disregard !!!

as far as the billets are concerened, I can see where that would be a potential problem if not very careful with the milling....


- Eddie Wheat

 

[WheatCues]

Oh my bad... I misinterpreted the posts..... please disregard !!!

as far as the billets are concerened, I can see where that would be a potential problem if not very careful with the milling....


- Eddie Wheat

But since were on the subject... I have a genuine question to ask you guys....

If you turn the forearm down within .5000-.8000 oversized diameter of it respective size then cut the point cavities....next you install the veneers/points and turn it all down untill you graze the forearm then make your cleanup passes.... you end up with even points !

Then how do you endup with run out on the veneers iwithin the points ????

I'm a little confused here !!!!!



Thanks, Eddie Wheat

 

[Cue Crazy]

Oh my bad... I misinterpreted the posts..... please disregard !!!

as far as the billets are concerened, I can see where that would be a potential problem if not very careful with the milling....


- Eddie Wheat

No bad at all, I often do that Myself, Infact I had to check to make sure I hadn't Misinterpreted It.

With the ring issue. It could happen in the indexing when they are first made/milled, but can also happen if the ID is not bored concentric with the OD of the ring. I've seen the spacing issue even when both of those were done correctly, and after the rings were actually installed though. An example would be the rings at the wrap, I see runout there in fullsplices more often, and unless they've been chopped they don't usually have ringwork there, but It's not uncommon for a cue to pickup runout in the middle, and If there were dash rings there, then It could show up in the spacing between the slots of the rings If the runout is just cut out of the cue. It can appear as if the rings weren't indexed properly when they were being made even when they were. It can also happen at the joint if the pin wasn't installed perfectly centered to the cue, and the last router pass was made using the pin as the center. I like to do My final turns off of a center hole in My pins, and for the above reason I turn the tenons for My rings between centers on the lathe, using the center hole in the pin. That way I know they are concentric with the pin as well.

Greg

 

[WheatCues]

No bad at all, I often do that Myself, Infact I had to check to make sure I hadn't Misinterpreted It.

With the ring issue. It could happen in the indexing when they are first made/milled, but can also happen if the ID is not bored concentric with the OD of the ring. I've seen the spacing issue even when both of those were done correctly, and after the rings were actually installed though. An example would be the rings at the wrap, I see runout there in fullsplices more often, and unless they've been chopped they don't usually have ringwork there, but It's not uncommon for a cue to pickup runout in the middle, and If there were dash rings there, then It could show up in the spacing between the slots of the rings If the runout is just cut out of the cue. It can appear as if the rings weren't indexed properly when they were being made even when they were. It can also happen at the joint if the pin wasn't installed perfectly centered to the cue, and the last router pass was made using the pin as the center. I like to do My final turns off of a center hole in My pins, and for the above reason I turn the tenons for My rings between centers on the lathe, using the center hole in the pin. That way I know they are concentric with the pin as well.

Greg

I understand.... I was under the impression that everyone utilizes a compound taper to insure that the end up with perfect point run out and then use the forearm as there new center... next, match the handle up to the forearm... it always seemed the easiest and less risky way to achieve the maximum results !!!

And install the pin last to insure concentricity.....

See that's what makes this art so damn interesting is becasue there's really alot of ways to get from A to Z when building cues !

Thanks, for the response.....


- Eddie Wheat

 

[Cue Crazy]

But since were on the subject... I have a genuine question to ask you guys....

If you turn the forearm down within .5000-.8000 oversized diameter of it respective size then cut the point cavities....next you install the veneers/points and turn it all down untill you graze the forearm then make your cleanup passes.... you end up with even points !

Then how do you endup with run out on the veneers iwithin the points ????

I'm a little confused here !!!!!



Thanks, Eddie Wheat

If the above cue in question is a spj, then It is fullsplice, and blanks can run .900 or over depending how far through the build proccess they were. That leaves alot to trim. Nothing wrong with what your saying IMO though, providing the woods are really stable, the spj's are just made differently I suppose.

 

[Cue Crazy]

I understand.... I was under the impression that everyone utilizes a compound taper to insure that the end up with perfect point run out and then use the forearm as there new center... next, match the handle up to the forearm... it always seemed the easiest and less risky way to achieve the maximum results !!!

And install the pin last to insure concentricity.....

See that's what makes this art so damn interesting is becasue there's really alot of ways to get from A to Z when building cues !

Thanks, for the response.....


- Eddie Wheat

I usually just use a straight taper on my handles, but I can install the pin after the cue is turned to final if I wanted, so I don't depend on the method I explained, just have had good luck that way when I use It. I turn the nose centerdrill, and polish most of My pins Myself, so that gives me a good centerhole in the pin to do this with. I face the handle between centers when I do that also, but face & tap the shaft out of the jaws. I have even done It the way You mention after the finish is on, and the pins went in centered. I guess for me that would come up most often when chopping a house Cue to install a joint.

Like You mentioned there are alot of ways to get there, guess It's just a matter of personal preference. I have no set ways per say, as I'm always trying new things & different methods. Everyday is still a learning experience for me, and I don't imagine that will change anytime soon, so Who knows how I will be doing them in a year or so.

Greg

 

[WheatCues]

I usually just use a straight taper on my handles, but I can install the pin after the cue is turned to final if I wanted, so I don't depend on the method I explained, just have had good luck that way when I use It. I turn the nose centerdrill, and polish most of My pins Myself, so that gives me a good centerhole in the pin to do this with. I face the handle between centers when I do that also, but face & tap the shaft out of the jaws. I have even done It the way You mention after the finish is on, and the pins went in centered. I guess for me that would come up most often when chopping a house Cue to install a joint.

Like You mentioned there are alot of ways to get there, guess It's just a matter of personal preference. I have no set ways per say, as I'm always trying new things & different methods. Everyday is still a learning experience for me, and I don't imagine that will change anytime soon, so Who knows how I will be doing them in a year or so.

Greg

I try to learn every chance I get as well... Evolution is a necessity in this industry and after many many years of building cues I believe I finally have something to offer the small world of cuemaking besides a clever commercial and resume' posts..... lol !!!


Thanks again !



- Eddie Wheat