I was talking with a friend of mine and the topic turned to cocobolo. He mentioned that he would never use it in the fore arm of a cue because of the hit it imparted. I asked if he was talking about the weight of the wood making the cue feel different and he had said that the wood it self makes the hit different. The only experience I have is with BEM so I really couldn't argue one way or the other and was just wondering how much does the fore arm wood contribute to the feel of the cue and how do different woods compared. Like for example the difference between Brazilian rosewood and cocobolo as compared to BEM. Thank you for your time.
Need some help with the characteristics of wood types
- Thread starter Neens
- Start date
for the hit i like Cocobolo better than Birdseye maple for myself.for the money Cocobolo can not be beat for hit,beauty,stability,weight,etc.
i know some guys won't use it b/c they are allergic but i can't imagine someone not using b/c they didn't like the hit.
i know some guys won't use it b/c they are allergic but i can't imagine someone not using b/c they didn't like the hit.
Any Dalbergia = good cue
<~~~I like some better than others........
<~~~I like some better than others........
You've asked : "was just wondering how much does the fore arm wood contribute to the feel of the cue?"
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that it can contribute maybe up to 50%. Shaft, joint, forearm then your hand. Anything behind that is secondary/rebound resonance. Alter any of the 3 in front of your hand and you can significantly change the hit.
Coco is an awesome forearm for hit. Very dense, some more than others and very visually appealing. As with most everything else in life, there are drawbacks. It can be oily and cause finish problems and being as dense as it is, can also be a little on the heavy side. Some may suggest coring but personally, I choose Coco for it's stand-alone purity of hit. I'd rather not compromise that by adding a different species dowel of wood to the very center of the forearm. I'm well aware that there are circumstances where coring is essential. Most builders wouldn't even consider a Big Leaf Quilted Maple forearm without coring. What was your question again?
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that it can contribute maybe up to 50%. Shaft, joint, forearm then your hand. Anything behind that is secondary/rebound resonance. Alter any of the 3 in front of your hand and you can significantly change the hit.
Coco is an awesome forearm for hit. Very dense, some more than others and very visually appealing. As with most everything else in life, there are drawbacks. It can be oily and cause finish problems and being as dense as it is, can also be a little on the heavy side. Some may suggest coring but personally, I choose Coco for it's stand-alone purity of hit. I'd rather not compromise that by adding a different species dowel of wood to the very center of the forearm. I'm well aware that there are circumstances where coring is essential. Most builders wouldn't even consider a Big Leaf Quilted Maple forearm without coring. What was your question again?
I have one particular cue that gives me all the feedback that I could want, in the right way. It just happens to have a Cocobolo forearm.
Remember my "talking cue" KJ?
On each shot the cue would resonate... nice, smooth, wrong!, almost there... or something like that. It's almost like having a co-driver or navigator in a rally race. Sometimes the cue gets cranky when I don't do things right though
:lol:
Remember my "talking cue" KJ?
On each shot the cue would resonate... nice, smooth, wrong!, almost there... or something like that. It's almost like having a co-driver or navigator in a rally race. Sometimes the cue gets cranky when I don't do things right though
:lol: