New OB came in the mail today

J SCHWARZ

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
OB makes great cues. I've corresponded quite a few times via email and phone call and have always had a good experience.
 

Mitchxout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The shaft is the OB1 Classic. Now that I've shot with it for about 2 hours I've got problems. It's my first LD after 40 years of playing. My misses with outside are overcutting and it's going to hard to adjust I'm afraid. Normally, my centerball shots are thicker but I'm aiming thinner. It's a little confusing. :confused:
 

banditgrrr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The shaft is the OB1 Classic. Now that I've shot with it for about 2 hours I've got problems. It's my first LD after 40 years of playing. My misses with outside are overcutting and it's going to hard to adjust I'm afraid. Normally, my centerball shots are thicker but I'm aiming thinner. It's a little confusing. :confused:



Give it some time and you'll get used to it. I have several very high end cues and could not/did not want to go back to a standard shaft. I have the OB1 for every one of my cues and couldn't be happier.
 

Mitchxout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Give it some time and you'll get used to it. I have several very high end cues and could not/did not want to go back to a standard shaft. I have the OB1 for every one of my cues and couldn't be happier.

One thing I like is there's hardly any adjustment between using side English or center. Takes a lot of confusion out and I see where it could shorten the learning curve for a new player. I've played so long the other way, I'm not sure if I can make the adjustment. The cue is very high quality and hits great. Just have to remember to aim a little thicker than I'm used to.
 

The Renfro

Outsville.com
Silver Member
The shaft is the OB1 Classic. Now that I've shot with it for about 2 hours I've got problems. It's my first LD after 40 years of playing. My misses with outside are overcutting and it's going to hard to adjust I'm afraid. Normally, my centerball shots are thicker but I'm aiming thinner. It's a little confusing. :confused:

3 options...

Learn to move parallel to the shot line for english....

Lengthen your bridge out longer than you ahve ever imagined and work your way forward until the english correction works as you are used to...

Have the local repair guy put a large pad of carbon fiber under the tip to add deflection back... You can use smaller and smaller pads with each new tip until you have no additional pad and are used to LD.....

I always go with option 3 and never get to the point of having no pad.. I like a little deflection and when I get the shaft right it's dead on for what my brain thinks should be happening......
 

bdorman

Dead money
Silver Member
3 options...

Learn to move parallel to the shot line for english....

Lengthen your bridge out longer than you ahve ever imagined and work your way forward until the english correction works as you are used to...

Have the local repair guy put a large pad of carbon fiber under the tip to add deflection back... You can use smaller and smaller pads with each new tip until you have no additional pad and are used to LD.....

I always go with option 3 and never get to the point of having no pad.. I like a little deflection and when I get the shaft right it's dead on for what my brain thinks should be happening......

I think all OB cues have a carbon fiber pad, standard equipment. The first time I sent my cue in for a re-tip I told the repairman to put a pad on it if he thought it was necessary. His response was, "It's necessary if you want to keep the OB warranty." (it was a black pad and a black tip so I couldn't tell that it had come with a pad)
 

The Renfro

Outsville.com
Silver Member
I think all OB cues have a carbon fiber pad, standard equipment. The first time I sent my cue in for a re-tip I told the repairman to put a pad on it if he thought it was necessary. His response was, "It's necessary if you want to keep the OB warranty." (it was a black pad and a black tip so I couldn't tell that it had come with a pad)

The key here is LARGE.... The OEM pad is for protecting the ferrule.. I have the added pad installed to increase the endmass and sometimes they are pretty thick to get the ball moving off the tip contact....
 

Mitchxout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The key here is LARGE.... The OEM pad is for protecting the ferrule.. I have the added pad installed to increase the endmass and sometimes they are pretty thick to get the ball moving off the tip contact....

Is there a potential problem with the ferrule if tts removed?
 

bdorman

Dead money
Silver Member
Is there a potential problem with the ferrule if tts removed?

IMHO, every ferule on every cue is "a potential problem." This is because the shock of hitting a hard ball is transfered to the ferule via a soft element (the tip). That allows the shock to localize on a small area of the ferule. The pad simply spreads the shock out across a wider area, lessening the chance of cracking the ferule.

Carbon fiber has a phenomenal strength-to-weight ratio. It provides great protection for any ferule with very little addition to the weight. I'd put it on any cue.
 

zpele

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is there a potential problem with the ferrule if tts removed?

Yes both because of the way the shaft is cored as well as the fact that the ob1 (or 2... I'm not sure which) has a wood ferrule and it can be damaged if the pad is removed.
 

poolguy4u

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The shaft is the OB1 Classic. Now that I've shot with it for about 2 hours I've got problems. It's my first LD after 40 years of playing. My misses with outside are overcutting and it's going to hard to adjust I'm afraid. Normally, my centerball shots are thicker but I'm aiming thinner. It's a little confusing. :confused:



.
Send it back and let them know it is missing balls already.

When you first buy a cue and you don't miss, then you know you have a good cue.:grin:
 

Mitchxout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
IMHO, every ferule on every cue is "a potential problem." This is because the shock of hitting a hard ball is transfered to the ferule via a soft element (the tip). That allows the shock to localize on a small area of the ferule. The pad simply spreads the shock out across a wider area, lessening the chance of cracking the ferule.

Carbon fiber has a phenomenal strength-to-weight ratio. It provides great protection for any ferule with very little addition to the weight. I'd put it on any cue.

Are the carbon fiber pads available for purchase?
 

Mitchxout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
.
Send it back and let them know it is missing balls already.

When you first buy a cue and you don't miss, then you know you have a good cue.:grin:

No joke, Billiard Warehouse gives you time to try out a cue and send it back if you don't like it. I'm liking the OB more and more but there's going to be a period of silly mistakes.
 

Mitchxout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
3 options...

Learn to move parallel to the shot line for english....

Lengthen your bridge out longer than you ahve ever imagined and work your way forward until the english correction works as you are used to...

Have the local repair guy put a large pad of carbon fiber under the tip to add deflection back... You can use smaller and smaller pads with each new tip until you have no additional pad and are used to LD.....

I always go with option 3 and never get to the point of having no pad.. I like a little deflection and when I get the shaft right it's dead on for what my brain thinks should be happening......

Thanks for the tips, I'm experimenting and found if I firm up my grip from about 2-3 to 4-5 the cue works a lot better. 1 being the lightest and 10 the tightest.
 
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pocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Completely and totally the reason I love this website. Every now and again you learn something interesting, or are exposed to another view of something you thought you had a good understanding of.
 
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