Newly installed table, slates not even

PickeringRC

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Hi everyone, a couple of days ago I received my new pool table, and have been very excited about it for a long time. I added all the extras at quite some cost to make it the best possible table within the design and size for my room.

It was installed and at the time, seemed ok, although the installed asked we didnt play on it for a few hours to allow the glue holding the cloth in place time to amply dry.

Now though, a couple of days later, the middle slate (of three) seems to be quite considerably below the others causing a nasty step.

I see in the forum that most of you reccomend super gluing the slabs together (either directly or with a business card between them) and I didnt see the installer do this (even though he did shim it, seal the gap with some kind of wax, and bolt everything together from the rails)

As all the posts I found date back to over a decade ago, is this still the commun practice?

I am waiting to hear back from the installer currently but am rather nervous as to the solution which from what I read sounds quite drastic, and as such am worried they may try to wriggle out in any way… any suggestions would as such be very much appreciated.

And just in case, no, I table hasnt been moved since it was installed…

Martin
 
I don't have the answer butt will leave that to people who do. But they will probably ask this same question. What brand table?
 
I'm not a mechanic. Stuff happens, tables go out of level after settling. Slates, once set should be set, but shit happens. Contact the installer and they will most likely fix it. If they refuse, get another installer, have them document and photograph the issue and small claims court is an option. It will probably not go this far, most likely the original installer will say "Oops, my bad, let's make an appointment and I'll fix it."

Slates being stepped is not ok. Gluing slates that are not flush with each other will do nothing. You have to get them flush, with or without glue. The glue trick is a nice trick and can add some stability but in the end the slates must be flush or it means nothing.

You have to flush the slates and level them, both processes have to be done correctly or there is a gap.
 
Gluing the slates together is about the only way to ensure that there will not be any future movement along the seams. Unfortunately, this practice is not nearly common enough.

You could ask the initial installer to correct the issue. However, I have little confidence in the installer fixing the issue correctly. If he did not know how to set it up correctly the first time, it's not likely that he will have learned the tricks of the trade by the second time. Even so, it is probably in your best interest to try that option first, as it should be free of charge, and could provide some resolution. Also, it should be beneficial to the installer, to know that his methods require modification. At the very least, maybe he was just having a bad day..
 
Do you know if your table has those bolts to adjust the slate from underneath. It's just that I had 1 of them fail in the past by dropping a thread a after install.
 
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Do you know if your table has those bolts to adjust the slate from underneath. It's just that I had 1 of them fail in the past by dropping a thread a after install.
The very FIRST sign of incompetence was telling the customer he had to wait to play on the table because the cloth glue had to dry! All that did was buy them time to cash the check before the customer found out he got screwed!!
 
Thank you all for the great replies and suggestions. Having spoken with the manufacturer & installer (produced semi-local), he believes that the slates have shifted due to the weight of the table on the insulated laminate flooring. The suggested solution was to add a number of shims between the slate and the beam running underneath the table and slate joint.

Having spent quite some time gently tapping the shims in and re-testing both by feel and by ball roll, I am quite happy that the table is back to being on a single plane.
Do you know if your table has those bolts to adjust the slate from underneath. It's just that I had 1 of them fail in the past by dropping a thread a after install.
Even though this didnt come up with the installer, in retrospect it is quite possibly what has happened. It had a single bolt in the center, which was probably two full turns loose. I have since re-tightened this in addition to the already installed shims, fingers crossed it all holds, I want to play!
 
Thank you all for the great replies and suggestions. Having spoken with the manufacturer & installer (produced semi-local), he believes that the slates have shifted due to the weight of the table on the insulated laminate flooring. The suggested solution was to add a number of shims between the slate and the beam running underneath the table and slate joint.

Having spent quite some time gently tapping the shims in and re-testing both by feel and by ball roll, I am quite happy that the table is back to being on a single plane.

Even though this didnt come up with the installer, in retrospect it is quite possibly what has happened. It had a single bolt in the center, which was probably two full turns loose. I have since re-tightened this in addition to the already installed shims, fingers crossed it all holds, I want to play!
Who in the hell gave you that advice, because its a bullshit answer!! Who made the table, and who set it up??
 
I'm having a hard time picturing the table settling being the cause of the middle slate to drop unless the frame sagged in the middle? I would think if a leg settled in the floor it would only need the leg adjustments to be adjusted?

Am I thinking wrong on this?
 
I'm having a hard time picturing the table settling being the cause of the middle slate to drop unless the frame sagged in the middle? I would think if a leg settled in the floor it would only need the leg adjustments to be adjusted?

Am I thinking wrong on this?
What make of table are we talking about?
 
What make of table are we talking about?
I'm thinking any table with a full frame under the slate . I'm just trying to picture how the middle slate could drop if the table settled in the floor. I would think if it settled in the floor one end or side would drop but not the center. I suppose if one corner dropped enough it could twist the main frame? I could be wrong though, if I am I will admit it and apologize.
 
I'm thinking any table with a full frame under the slate . I'm just trying to picture how the middle slate could drop if the table settled in the floor. I would think if it settled in the floor one end or side would drop but not the center. I suppose if one corner dropped enough it could twist the main frame? I could be wrong though, if I am I will admit it and apologize.
I'm thinking you have this picture in you mind that all pool table frames are built alike, which couldn't be further from the truth.

I've set new tables up that the body of the table, which is also the support frame, is built out of MDF and the weight of the slate on the frame caused the middle of the table to sag by more than 3/4" of an inch, which then requires shims under the middle slate and both end slates to bring the slates back up to level. And if the slates don't get superglued together as to keep them from coming apart, you get your end results.

Now, what make of table did you get, new or used? New to you don't mean it was a new purchase, unless you bought it new, I have no way of knowing without your feedback.
 
I'm thinking you have this picture in you mind that all pool table frames are built alike, which couldn't be further from the truth.

I've set new tables up that the body of the table, which is also the support frame, is built out of MDF and the weight of the slate on the frame caused the middle of the table to sag by more than 3/4" of an inch, which then requires shims under the middle slate and both end slates to bring the slates back up to level. And if the slates don't get superglued together as to keep them from coming apart, you get your end results.

Now, what make of table did you get, new or used?
I'm not the OP and haven't bought a table yet hopefully this summer and debating on either a Diamond pro, A rasson or a New Gold Crown but am leaning towards a diamond.

You are correct that I am picturing a table with a frame structure under it .
 
Who in the hell gave you that advice, because its a bullshit answer!! Who made the table, and who set it up??

Its a locally (Spain) produced table, mixed pool and dining table. Brand new, built to spec and with all the extras they offer (Simonis 860HR, Klematch cushions, leather pockets, Aramith black…)

It has a steel outer frame and legs, with what seem to be four thick MDF cross beams holding the three piece 1” slates.

It is between the slate and one of the MDF beams where the “drop” happened and I have shimmed to what seems to be level (middle slate)
 

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Its a locally (Spain) produced table, mixed pool and dining table. Brand new, built to spec and with all the extras they offer (Simonis 860HR, Klematch cushions, leather pockets, Aramith black…)

It has a steel outer frame and legs, with what seem to be four thick MDF cross beams holding the three piece 1” slates.

It is between the slate and one of the MDF beams where the “drop” happened and I have shimmed to what seems to be level (middle slate)
Was still set up wrong from the start.
 
Was still set up wrong from the start.
I agree… annoyingly there is a loose thread on the Simonis, and he may yet be back to replace it… from the limited insight possible through this meduim, what would you suggest making sure is done differently next time, just the glue joint? Thanks again!
 
I agree… annoyingly there is a loose thread on the Simonis, and he may yet be back to replace it… from the limited insight possible through this meduim, what would you suggest making sure is done differently next time, just the glue joint? Thanks again!
Problem was with the seams, so fix that problem first. While there, point out any other issues bothering you
 
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