No clue with glue!

[jazznpool]

Any drawbacks of using Elmer's glue for plastic/phenolic ferrules? Is shafting epoxy okay for phenolic trim rings at joint and butt? Lastly, is yellow carpenter glue okay for gluing a few narrow veneers together as long as they are well clamped?

Thanks, Martin

 

[jim lee]

Are you serious?

Any drawbacks of using Elmer's glue for plastic/phenolic ferrules? Is shafting epoxy okay for phenolic trim rings at joint and butt? Lastly, is yellow carpenter glue okay for gluing a few narrow veneers together as long as they are well clamped?

Thanks, Martin

Martin ,

You will have your best results from 2 ton epoxy for the ring work or joint work. You may even get away with 5 minute epoxy for the ferrules. I use 2 ton for everthing because of it's holding power over time. It really is the best way to go! Good Luck! Save the Elmer's for furnuture HAHA
Jim Lee (JL Cues)

 

[Cue Crazy]

I use 2-ton on My ring work & several other things also. I use it with ferrules too when I can, but as mentioned the 5-minute will get you by in a jam for time. The elmers is used with threaded tenons sometimes, and others just where the ferrule meets the wood, because it's suppose to look better, and not leave a line between them, but I just use the epoxy Myself. I do use elmers sometimes, but not for anything requiring structural support.

Veneers, well I know there are different type epoxies used, maybe even some other types of resins used, but will leave that to someone with more experience working with them to answer.The marine industry would be a good place to search for those products IMO.

Greg

 

[cueaddicts]

There's a brand of 5-minute epoxy (devcon, I think) that actually dries a cream color and is absolutely the best we've found for ferrules. It starts off a light blue but when it dries, it blends in really well where the shaft meets the ferrule. As long as you have everything faced, cleaned, and ready to go the 5-minute stuff shouldn't get you into trouble.

I, too, am curious about what's best for glueing veneers together. Have heard epoxy works fine, but is anything better? Concerned about streaking the color in the soft veneer wood.

Sean

 

[cuesmith]

There's a brand of 5-minute epoxy (devcon, I think) that actually dries a cream color and is absolutely the best we've found for ferrules. It starts off a light blue but when it dries, it blends in really well where the shaft meets the ferrule. As long as you have everything faced, cleaned, and ready to go the 5-minute stuff shouldn't get you into trouble.

I, too, am curious about what's best for glueing veneers together. Have heard epoxy works fine, but is anything better? Concerned about streaking the color in the soft veneer wood.

Sean

I use the Elmers white glue for ivory ferrules and irish linen wraps only. This was one of the "words of wisdom" I picked up from Gus, many years ago. I prefer to use the West Systems epoxy for gluing up veneers.

just more hot air!


Sherm

 

[Murray Tucker]

There's a brand of 5-minute epoxy (devcon, I think) that actually dries a cream color and is absolutely the best we've found for ferrules. It starts off a light blue but when it dries, it blends in really well where the shaft meets the ferrule. As long as you have everything faced, cleaned, and ready to go the 5-minute stuff shouldn't get you into trouble.

I, too, am curious about what's best for glueing veneers together. Have heard epoxy works fine, but is anything better? Concerned about streaking the color in the soft veneer wood.

Sean

IMHO wood glue should be saved for wraps.

Epoxy in a tube is too thick to use for veneers (unless you like glue lines). West is my choice of epoxy for all things point and veneer related.

 

[lignum]

I know my snooker cues and your 9ball cues (or USA style cues) are different but my splicings (veneers , splicings) are done almost exclusively with Polyurethane , the remainder with decent epoxy (T-88 - my favorite , Araldite Industrial , Devcon , West System) . I prefer the polyurethane because it works well with high clamping pressure . Epoxy requires less pressure so as not to squeeze too much glue out of the joint but you can clamp the hell out of poly !

edit: forgot to say , with the poly there is no "glue creep" or any other visual/finishing probs and it's very , very strong and finally sands easily and invisibly !

 

[jazznpool]

Hats off to all who responded to my glue questions! Thanks.

Martin

Any drawbacks of using Elmer's glue for plastic/phenolic ferrules? Is shafting epoxy okay for phenolic trim rings at joint and butt? Lastly, is yellow carpenter glue okay for gluing a few narrow veneers together as long as they are well clamped?

Thanks, Martin

 

[1-pocket-player]

This may sound stupid but do any cuemakers use Gorilla Glue for anything cue related? I use it all the time around the house for repairs and it works great I guess my only problem with it is how much it expands.

-Andy

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

This may sound stupid but do any cuemakers use Gorilla Glue for anything cue related? I use it all the time around the house for repairs and it works great I guess my only problem with it is how much it expands.

-Andy

I've heard of a few using it in their cues. I have certain reservations about it though. It does work well for general use, (I've also used it for a few household and hobby uses). I would be a little uncomfortable about using it in a cue though. The term "time tested" does come to mind. I have to agree with Murray, the West Syetem is hard to beat.

 

[lignum]

Gorilla glue is Polyurethane like I was talking about . Works well , is very strong , waterproof , resistant to most finishes/solvents , clear finishing and no creep . Dont worry about the expansion , it's to fill any little gaps . Only time I use epoxies instead is when I'm worried about inlays/splices chipping at the edge when turning .