NYC -- Slim pro taper laminated shafts warping

[Gorramjayne]

I've been through a number of laminated skinny shafts in the last year, but I keep getting mild warping. Only one warped enough for me to stop playing with it, but mild warping is still annoying.

I'm beginning to wonder if skinny pro-taper profiles defeat the 'stability' of laminated shafts. Maybe the pie sections are too small to be stable depending on how they're bound?

Does anybody near NYC have the ability to turn out a shaft between 11.5mm - 11.75mm with a 14-15in pro taper that will be stable through weather changes? I'd prefer a very short light (LD) ferrule. I don't really care if it's laminated or solid maple as long as it's sturdy at that diameter. I'd need this within a few months, if anybody has blanks already turned down to 12mm or below.

Is this doable or am I always going to be at risk of my skinny shafts warping?

 

[Kimmo H.]

Welcome to the forums

How much roll out you have got on your shafts?
Wood is a natural material and it moves around a little due temperature and humidity.
My shafts are well kept and still most of them have a tiny bit of roll on them. Straightest shafts that I have are all 12,75mm with a long pro taper (pee cat 314 / SS360/2). I dont have a problem with that though as I understand that a few tenths of a millimeter wont make difference in playability

As I make my living turning metals and plastics I can say with confidence that making a shaft out of any material, even steel, that is Perfectly straight is difficult due to tension in the material itself. Any cutting will cause minor warpage when the part (shaft in this case) is as long and small in diameter as it is. Wood of course is different but the basic principle still applies.

My personal experience is that one should not obsess too much on shaft straightness, it just messes up your head if you are constantly rolling over the cue on the slate to see if there is any roll out. A millimeter off roll out wont miss you a shot.
Many snooker players chech straightness only by looking along the cue on their hands while rotating it around. If theres no visible wobble it is okay to play with.

If all your shafts warp a lot you may have some bad habits to cause it. Cues should be stored in room temperature and should not be used to lean on or to be leaned against a wall.

Note that im not exactly a cue maker, just a repair / maintenance person and a machinist

 

[KJ Cues]

Welcome to the forums
Note that im not exactly a cue maker, just a repair / maintenance person and a machinist

Information can come from many different directions.
When it's accurate and helpful as yours has been, it's also appreciated.

Thanx Much, KJ

 

[cueman]

In my experience long thin tapers are not only bad for laminated shafts, but bad for all shafts. If you use a long thin taper just count on your shaft warping.

 

[Gorramjayne]

Thanks for the attention.

The shafts typically raise a few millimeters when rolled. Usually it's enough to see even at a glance. One, a Pechauer P+ Lite, got to looking like a corkscrew. My Katana Bushido only warped a little, but getting my face on the slate next to it I can see the buckle.

Edit: I can't humid/temp control my place, very old Brooklyn brownstone using radiant heat and window A/Cs, but I disassemble my cue when not playing. While I try to baby my shafts, I take take more masse shots than is probably necessary. Some of it might be my penchant for masse, some might be bad luck.

I grew up with a few vintage snooker cues in the house and I remember those pencil-thin things rolling dead straight, even after years of being used to bang American pool balls around. It just confuses me how the snooker cues have stayed so perfect over decades, and the comparatively thick shafts today last less than six months before a noticeable wobble.

Am I going to have to suck up my purism and learn to play a conical taper if I want to stay under 12mm? I'm hoping to hear from some builder who has the wood selection and technical expertise to turn out a skinny pro-taper shaft like this.

 

[Kim Bye]

Thanks for the attention.

The shafts typically raise a few millimeters when rolled. Usually it's enough to see even at a glance. One, a Pechauer P+ Lite, got to looking like a corkscrew. My Katana Bushido only warped a little, but getting my face on the slate next to it I can see the buckle.

Edit: I can't humid/temp control my place, very old Brooklyn brownstone using radiant heat and window A/Cs, but I disassemble my cue when not playing. While I try to baby my shafts, I take take more masse shots than is probably necessary. Some of it might be my penchant for masse, some might be bad luck.

I grew up with a few vintage snooker cues in the house and I remember those pencil-thin things rolling dead straight, even after years of being used to bang American pool balls around. It just confuses me how the snooker cues have stayed so perfect over decades, and the comparatively thick shafts today last less than six months before a noticeable wobble.

Am I going to have to suck up my purism and learn to play a conical taper if I want to stay under 12mm? I'm hoping to hear from some builder who has the wood selection and technical expertise to turn out a skinny pro-taper shaft like this.

What type of case do you store your pool cues in?