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OB Classic Plus Shaft
- Thread starter peppersauce
- Start date
I had the OB Classic pro 11 3/4 mm and couldn't get used to it. It seemed to "throw" the object ball at times. Perhaps it's a case of needing a perfect hit on the cue ball in order to be successful. It was in new condition and I even tried a Kamui medium brown on it. The hit was nice, but results were not consistent, which my aim was probably at fault. I sold it for $140 on Ebay and I see used ones in mint condition, sell for the same every week.
The 314/2 I have plays great. Kamui medium brown, great for 9 ball.
The Jacoby Hybrid Edge also plays great. It pockets tough shots consistently and position is predictable.
I recently bought a new Mezz WX900 (12 mm) and it plays better than all of them. I got it from Nielsen's Billiards. What great people and superb service you get from Neilsen's.
I'm always willing to let locals try any of my shafts, so they can get the feel for themselves before spending money on a shaft they may not like.
My Scruggs shafts hit great too, but I see a specific purpose for using each shaft to get the best performance.
The 314/2 I have plays great. Kamui medium brown, great for 9 ball.
The Jacoby Hybrid Edge also plays great. It pockets tough shots consistently and position is predictable.
I recently bought a new Mezz WX900 (12 mm) and it plays better than all of them. I got it from Nielsen's Billiards. What great people and superb service you get from Neilsen's.
I'm always willing to let locals try any of my shafts, so they can get the feel for themselves before spending money on a shaft they may not like.
My Scruggs shafts hit great too, but I see a specific purpose for using each shaft to get the best performance.
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I had GK cue(now traded away) with a Classic+. IMO, they need two things: a slight re-taper and a hard tip. After doing both to mine it played really nice. Took shaft down to around 12.5-12.6 and installed UltraSkin hard. This set-up is low def. and close to solid wood as to the hit.
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I struggled for feedback and frankly still am. Maybe this will help a bit. :shrug:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=414685
Bob its never going to have the level of feedback that a solid maple shaft has. I tried a few mediums and all felt flat. The hard UltraSkin has become my go-to tip on just about everything. To me it feels like a really good older LePro but with the added bonus of more spin. At 3bux apiece they might be the best deal in pool.
I play with the OB CL Classic+ and I love it.
I wanted a larger tip size, but still low deflection, and this is one of very few choices.
Because it is larger, it has more endmass, and therefore not as low deflection as others, but definitley more than standard maple.
I prefer a very crisp, stiff hit, and paired with a Zan Hard, it is perfect (for me).
A lot of players try my set up and do not like it though...too stiff for them.
If I ever buy another shaft, it will be another XL+ from OB.
I wanted a larger tip size, but still low deflection, and this is one of very few choices.
Because it is larger, it has more endmass, and therefore not as low deflection as others, but definitley more than standard maple.
I prefer a very crisp, stiff hit, and paired with a Zan Hard, it is perfect (for me).
A lot of players try my set up and do not like it though...too stiff for them.
If I ever buy another shaft, it will be another XL+ from OB.
Thanks for this Mr. Schaffer.
I'm leaning another 180'. I play 14.1, and am still pondering the XL with the layered maple ferrule and a Premium Zan soft.
It'll be quite a departure from my current Schon 314/2 with a Kamui clear black medium.
I'm most concerned about the transition from the cylindrical Predator to the apparently slightly conical OB taper. Thoughts?
I'm leaning another 180'. I play 14.1, and am still pondering the XL with the layered maple ferrule and a Premium Zan soft.
It'll be quite a departure from my current Schon 314/2 with a Kamui clear black medium.
I'm most concerned about the transition from the cylindrical Predator to the apparently slightly conical OB taper. Thoughts?
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On a somewhat related note, do any of you fellas use the layered maple ferrule?
I do generally prefer a softer hit. One major appeal would be that I wouldn't always have to be so extra carefully obsessed when cleaning or burnishing in that 13.25 mm gives me a lot of forgiveness and , in theory at least, the bridging area would always be nice and flush with the ferrule; assuming the shaft and ferrule would respond equally to even mild cleaning and burnishing.
I play much more consistently with a fatter shaft, but most likely do not require the full bulk of the 13.25 mm. It just drives me nutso when a shaft and its ferrule aren't perfectly the same in diameter.
OB recommends the Q-Wiz, but the non logo side quickly shows a whitish residue even when used very gently, which is most definitely wood dust. I'm even suspicious of the logo side, and even use it sparingly, but when I do, it appears to be removing only the blue residue; again when used very, very gently and not frequently.
I do generally prefer a softer hit. One major appeal would be that I wouldn't always have to be so extra carefully obsessed when cleaning or burnishing in that 13.25 mm gives me a lot of forgiveness and , in theory at least, the bridging area would always be nice and flush with the ferrule; assuming the shaft and ferrule would respond equally to even mild cleaning and burnishing.
I play much more consistently with a fatter shaft, but most likely do not require the full bulk of the 13.25 mm. It just drives me nutso when a shaft and its ferrule aren't perfectly the same in diameter.
OB recommends the Q-Wiz, but the non logo side quickly shows a whitish residue even when used very gently, which is most definitely wood dust. I'm even suspicious of the logo side, and even use it sparingly, but when I do, it appears to be removing only the blue residue; again when used very, very gently and not frequently.
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