OB Classic Pro - Pro Taper

H

hungryjoseph

Registered
I know I might get a lot of flak for this thread but I figured I'd ask anyway.

Anyone get a pro taper done on their OB classic pro? Or any other hollowed out laminated shaft?

I emailed OB and they suggested against having it done, as did my local pro shop. I've never been one to follow a manufacturer's advice on almost anything I own...

I just want to see if anyone has done it, how their shafts are holding up, and what they think of it.
 
just do it and let as know how it plays!!! I am sure you will like it and shaft will be fine.
I did not like taper on classic, not sure how different it is from classic pro
 
No...but I have an OB classic that I had turned down to ~12 mm.

Same sort of end result....OB classic with a pro taper, but smaller diameter (standard for an OB classic is about 12.75mm.

Makes the ferrule wall thinner, though, and I would guess may be prone to cracking if you hit hard.
 
MSchaffer, thank you for letting me know. I am assuming your shaft has held up fine? No weird roll or splitting/cracking/bending? What kind of play does it see? How hard do you hit with it?

I am not too concerned with the ferrule cracking since I plan on keeping that at 11.75. I want to bring the first 15 inches down to 11.75 along with it, which is a substantial reduction as you move down the shaft... From what OB tells me the first 5 inches are hollow in the Classic line of cues and are solid through the rest of the shaft. I guess I am more concerned about the rest of the shaft being pieced together with many pieces, so decreasing the diameter throughout the shaft is decreasing the overall surface area in which each piece contacts with another. This decreases the overall strength the shaft can handle. I've played with a 12mm maple for a while with no real problems so far.
 
mel_smOg said:
just do it and let as know how it plays!!! I am sure you will like it and shaft will be fine.
I did not like taper on classic, not sure how different it is from classic pro
Click to expand...

The classic is 12.75mm Pro taper, while the classic Pro is 11.75 diameter tip with a conical taper.
 
I think the shaft would be fine if turned down since you're leaving the ferule alone. You are also leaving the first 5 inches pretty much alone, so should be no problem...
But...I think an 11.75 shaft with a pro taper is gonna get really "whippy" I bet you'd get mad spin off that shaft, but it would seem to me that it would play very soft and different...
Let us know how you like it if you do it.
 
The shaft is laminated, with glue holding many strips (floabw) of wood together. Heat breaks down glue bonds. To change your taper correctly and safely (safely for the shaft and the repairer's reputation), the shaft must be sanded excessively. And excessive sanding causes heat and stress. The glues can break down the bonds and the wood can warp from too much stress. All of this can cause the shaft to delaminate. Also, the taper is so narrow to begin with, the conical taper adds needed strength.

I don't rely on cue repairs for a living, so I just refuse to take chances on other peeps cues. And I've seen it before, it only takes one person's $250 shaft to be ruined and they blame the repairman privately, even though they know better. My reputation is worth more than a $30 risky job and I work too hard for my cue investments to takes chances.

It sounds like you may prefer a Meucci Black dot. Sell your OB and buy a Meucci. No risk and you should end up with money in your pocket to boot. Good luck.

Daren

Respect, Courage, and Commitment!
 
arps said:
i'm confused. is it OB Classic shaft? or OB Pro shaft?

based on their website, there's no "OB Classic Pro".
Click to expand...

The OB Pro was referred to as the OB Classic Pro when it was first released.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
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