One of the 3 pieces of slate is off level.

Rambosky

"The Grunt"
I guess I need to get someone to tear up my cloth and see what's going on. My guess it's the under frame that was made in China is warped.

What would be a basic charge to come out remove the rails and cloth and shim that piece of slate?

I might as well get the Simonis 860 put on while he's doing this.
 
Rambosky said:
I guess I need to get someone to tear up my cloth and see what's going on. My guess it's the under frame that was made in China is warped.

What would be a basic charge to come out remove the rails and cloth and shim that piece of slate?

I might as well get the Simonis 860 put on while he's doing this.
I've stated before, a slate can be leveled on 2 x 4's, so your frame has nothing to do with the end results of leveling your slates. At times, the frame can be challenging, but...never-the-less, the slate should have turned out level when who ever set up the table was done...in the first place. The table can stay warped, but the slate can still be leveled flat.

Glen
 
Level slate?

I agree unless the environment has changed, once the slate is level it should remain level. However a new frame can and does settle. Under the wrong conditions the frame may and often does develope a sag or even warp. The only way to solve it is to take it to bare slate and true it up from square one. If the table now has a few years on it and the environment it is in does not undergo any drastic changes in the future it should stay very playable for a long time.

Just my 2 cents worth I prefer Championship Tour Addition. But that's just my personal opinion.
 
Can't the slate be releveled from underneath by using shims between the frame and the slate? Also, what type of level would be best to use when leveling the slate.
 
Dawgie said:
Can't the slate be releveled from underneath by using shims between the frame and the slate? Also, what type of level would be best to use when leveling the slate.
No, because the slate is screwed down to the frame of the table with slate screws under the cloth. A machinist level is the only level to use.
 
Rambosky said:
I guess I need to get someone to tear up my cloth and see what's going on.
You're correct. The first thing you have to do is to get the cloth off and see what's going on. A lot depends on how much the slate is off. If it's off just a fraction, in time you will see a line where the slate comes together that is result of the balls rolling over the edges. This could be caused from either the slate being off or there being a gap between the slates where they meet. In the "old days" when covering Brunswick Anniversary models, it was not uncommon to have a slight variation in the slate that we would correct by using plaste of Paris to make up the gap. We'd mix up plaster of Paris and spread it about six inches from the joint in the slate, wait for it to dry and it would correct the problem. Now, if the slate is 1/8" off, you have a different problem that is only going to be corrected by shimming.

If you get someone who knows what they're doing, they'll be able to fix the problem and save your cloth - unless it's ready to be replaced anyway.
 
Rambosky said:
I guess I need to get someone to tear up my cloth and see what's going on. My guess it's the under frame that was made in China is warped.

What would be a basic charge to come out remove the rails and cloth and shim that piece of slate?

I might as well get the Simonis 860 put on while he's doing this.
I just re-read my last post and have two things to add. After applying the plaster of Paris, it has to be sanded smooth with a flat sanding block using paper that is around 180 grit.

Also, it looks like you are ready to abandong the clothe anyway since you're talking about using Simonis.
 
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