Opinions on using Aramith Pro Cup Measle Cue Balls with Brunswick Centennial Balls
- Thread starter ChrisinNC
- Start date
I substitute the Aramith measles ball for the orig. Centennial cue ball
in both sets of Centennial pool balls I have & it works just fine for me.
in both sets of Centennial pool balls I have & it works just fine for me.
Good move with the cue balls....
...I would suggest save them for one pocket also.
If it’s possible, try saving one table for 14.1 and one pocket only.
The old grand touring rooms barred rotation and 8- ball from their main tables.
It was invented for t.v. use so viewers could see the spin(s) applied. We've got a couple at the 'hall and i can take it or leave it. Prefer just a standard cueball myself.
I could be wrong, I think the Jim Rempe training cue ball predate the introduction of the Super Pro Aramith. Putting it together with the Super Pro TV, ball cleaner was likely suggested by someone in marketing, without consultation from knowledgeable pool player.
Jim Rempe training ball is fine with a lower tier set, as I believe its made from the same phenolic as lighter red circle cue ball.
Jim Rempe training ball is fine with a lower tier set, as I believe its made from the same phenolic as lighter red circle cue ball.
I'm with others in that I trust my 22 year experience first and foremost. But I also value measurements.
The red circle, is in my opinion the "cleanest" cue ball as far as resisting chalk marks. It was different in the past.
It is the same weight, but reacts differently. Way back in the 1990's this was discussed, and Saluc said or someone reputable claimed Saluc said the red circle was made with a slightly different resin (the carom resin), but was same size and weight. But that resin had a little more bounce to it. I believe that based on experience, and brand new red circles did not look the same as the Super Pros when brand new.
However, at some point I believe the red circle became the same as the Super Aramith. Because genuine red circles made by Saluc started showing that same kind of high gloss finished layer, and would get dirty just like the blue circle and others.
I personally have not seen any genuine measles ball be "cleaner" ...than the others. It gets as grungy as the blue circle, red aramith logo and others which Saluc says is the same.
Perhaps the finishing of the balls is slightly different. Can be same resin, but the finishing process can vary. Also, how thick the ultra hard finish is. That was a big claim back in the day by Aramith.
I also believe wear changes how dirty a ball gets. When it is brand new, it stays fairly clean for a very short while. Then it gets chalk marks very easily that cling after it is getting some wear. Then as the ball ages (like in a pool room) where most of that clear outer later is worn off - the ball plays "clean" again.
I think this is a big contributing factor to the various experiences and mass confusion. Same balls, but at different stages of wear and various conditions too.
People underestimate how much wear a cue ball takes. It gets spun around, generating heat on many shots. That's what leaves marks on the cloth. Those are burn marks. It is impacted by a tip covered in abrasive chalk every shot. Most chalk is ground up sand. It drags, spins and rolls across the chalk-impregnated cloth every single play and shot. All abrasive. Most pool room cloth is loaded with chalk. No matter how much you wipe it down or vacuum. A cue ball is essentially being abraded non-stop.
Micrometers do not lie. The balls do shrink as they are used, and often faster than one would expect. Worn cue balls that are shrinking down also do lose a little weight, which makes them draw easier a touch. It really effects stun shots and center ball play. Higher level players are very sensitive to this. Bangers don't notice.
Cue balls do in fact sustain damage from phenolic tipped break cues. Mine did. My genuine measles ball was covered in these tiny crescent moon shaped hair-thin impact lines or micro fractures. Not sure how to define them. What I did know was, these went through the clear outer layer into the ball and could not be wiped off or cleaned no matter what.
My hardest break speed varied from around 22.5 - 24 MPH. I was using a BK2.
I suspect some people denied this happening because...1. they might not have good enough close up vision to see these impacts on the ball 2. maybe they never checked in that kind of detailed way 3. they don't break anywhere near that hard.
I didn't have some kind of killer power break by any stretch of the imagination, but it was harder that the vast, vast majority of anyone in my league - so my guess is most folks don't generate the speed to make that happen.
It also stands to reason that if you hit a phenolic ball with a phenolic tip - some kind of scuff or damage is possible.
Well anyway, it's been reported by others damage is done which is why some tourneys and some owners in the past banned phenolic tip break cues.
The red circle, is in my opinion the "cleanest" cue ball as far as resisting chalk marks. It was different in the past.
It is the same weight, but reacts differently. Way back in the 1990's this was discussed, and Saluc said or someone reputable claimed Saluc said the red circle was made with a slightly different resin (the carom resin), but was same size and weight. But that resin had a little more bounce to it. I believe that based on experience, and brand new red circles did not look the same as the Super Pros when brand new.
However, at some point I believe the red circle became the same as the Super Aramith. Because genuine red circles made by Saluc started showing that same kind of high gloss finished layer, and would get dirty just like the blue circle and others.
I personally have not seen any genuine measles ball be "cleaner" ...than the others. It gets as grungy as the blue circle, red aramith logo and others which Saluc says is the same.
Perhaps the finishing of the balls is slightly different. Can be same resin, but the finishing process can vary. Also, how thick the ultra hard finish is. That was a big claim back in the day by Aramith.
I also believe wear changes how dirty a ball gets. When it is brand new, it stays fairly clean for a very short while. Then it gets chalk marks very easily that cling after it is getting some wear. Then as the ball ages (like in a pool room) where most of that clear outer later is worn off - the ball plays "clean" again.
I think this is a big contributing factor to the various experiences and mass confusion. Same balls, but at different stages of wear and various conditions too.
People underestimate how much wear a cue ball takes. It gets spun around, generating heat on many shots. That's what leaves marks on the cloth. Those are burn marks. It is impacted by a tip covered in abrasive chalk every shot. Most chalk is ground up sand. It drags, spins and rolls across the chalk-impregnated cloth every single play and shot. All abrasive. Most pool room cloth is loaded with chalk. No matter how much you wipe it down or vacuum. A cue ball is essentially being abraded non-stop.
Micrometers do not lie. The balls do shrink as they are used, and often faster than one would expect. Worn cue balls that are shrinking down also do lose a little weight, which makes them draw easier a touch. It really effects stun shots and center ball play. Higher level players are very sensitive to this. Bangers don't notice.
Cue balls do in fact sustain damage from phenolic tipped break cues. Mine did. My genuine measles ball was covered in these tiny crescent moon shaped hair-thin impact lines or micro fractures. Not sure how to define them. What I did know was, these went through the clear outer layer into the ball and could not be wiped off or cleaned no matter what.
My hardest break speed varied from around 22.5 - 24 MPH. I was using a BK2.
I suspect some people denied this happening because...1. they might not have good enough close up vision to see these impacts on the ball 2. maybe they never checked in that kind of detailed way 3. they don't break anywhere near that hard.
I didn't have some kind of killer power break by any stretch of the imagination, but it was harder that the vast, vast majority of anyone in my league - so my guess is most folks don't generate the speed to make that happen.
It also stands to reason that if you hit a phenolic ball with a phenolic tip - some kind of scuff or damage is possible.
Well anyway, it's been reported by others damage is done which is why some tourneys and some owners in the past banned phenolic tip break cues.