Painted cue?

T

txironhead

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Got to talking with a friend about custom cues last night, and he came up with an idea that I liked, but it goes "against the grain", in more than one sense of the term.

Basic design idea was thus: black leather grip, black butt cap, joint and ferrule, then the rest of the handle (or possibly the whole cue) painted with the chameleon "color change" paint. No exotics, inlays, points, etc. Seems like it would be a fairly easy cue to build, as long as you had access to the proper painting supplies. It would have to have a very durable finish (epoxy?), as refinishing would be a pain without completely repainting I'd guess.

Personally, if I got a painted cue I'd either go with candy apple red or a dark green pearl handle and natural shaft. I was just wondering if anyone here has ever done a solid painted cue.
 
You would need to test over coating auto paint with epoxy. There maybe a off gasing issue. That will give you a milky look.
 
txironhead said:
Got to talking with a friend about custom cues last night, and he came up with an idea that I liked, but it goes "against the grain", in more than one sense of the term.

Basic design idea was thus: black leather grip, black butt cap, joint and ferrule, then the rest of the handle (or possibly the whole cue) painted with the chameleon "color change" paint. No exotics, inlays, points, etc. Seems like it would be a fairly easy cue to build, as long as you had access to the proper painting supplies. It would have to have a very durable finish (epoxy?), as refinishing would be a pain without completely repainting I'd guess.

Personally, if I got a painted cue I'd either go with candy apple red or a dark green pearl handle and natural shaft. I was just wondering if anyone here has ever done a solid painted cue.
Click to expand...

I have used pearls before on cues. It turns out really cool looking. I would make sure that you seal the cue first before painting. I remember when I first started and it took about 7 heavy coats of clear to build up enough to not have dips from not sealing. I would epoxy first, sand smooth, spray your paint, sand, and then clear with an auto clear. Auto clear is plenty hard enough for this application IMHO.
 
I've actually already done this with chameleon coat and everything but I use white accents instead of black it did look neat, but I did it along time ago I may no longer have a pic. The cue was strait grain maple but had a lot of sugar and back when I started I was scared to trash anything so I painted the cue.

Its not quite as amazing as you would think but still diffrent.
I used primer just like on a car and everything I was reaching back to my roots of a car painter lol
 
I'd definitely like to see pics. Sounds like a good way to salvage a cue that didn't turn out as expected. I've seen a "swirl" technique with pearls that involves placing saran wrap over the paint and pulling it off, if I remember correctly, that might give a bit more character. Or go old school and pinstripe it.

I know a lot of cheaper production cues now are painted (my Minnesota Fats included), but most seem to be trying to make it look like a nice inlaid pattern.

I keep getting this idea of a stick with '70s metalflake, pinstriping, and a chrome skull butt. Kinda like if Roth or Barris had made a pool cue. Hey, they did have 8-ball shifters.....
 
Thanks to my own thread, I now have the idea of a red metalflake cue stuck in my head. SS joint (looks like chrome), possibly some decoration on the butt....can't decide between a black leather wrap or wrapless. The paint would be pricey I'd imagine (never bought or mixed red metalflake but I know paint's gone up in price) but the wood used could be plain, non-exotic.

Hmm.
 
McDermott made cues that change color when you turn them in the light.

I don't know how to post pictures, so I don't know how to show them off.:frown:
 
Not sure where to find it but I know someone makes a paint that is sensitive to heat. This would be neat when you take your hand off the cue your hand print would still be there for a minute till the residual heat faded.

May not be your cup of tea but just letting you know there is a ton of options out there.
 
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