Performance Shaft and their 12.75 tip size

MasterClass

MasterClass

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Why is that? This is for predator and Ob1 shafts that i have tried. Not sure about the rest.

Is it not possible to just make it 13mm and maintain the performance or reduced slightly?

Or is that already possible. I know there is a fat shaft for predator. never tried it. So i cannot comment. What about OB1?

Why the magic number 12.75?
 
I suspect it is just to be different of the usual 13, part of the marketing strategy. I don't think 0,25 will make a difference, but the Z shaft at 11,75 does !!!
 
madfox said:
I suspect it is just to be different of the usual 13, part of the marketing strategy. I don't think 0,25 will make a difference, but the Z shaft at 11,75 does !!!
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It does make a difference.
In order to reduce cue ball deflection the end mass of the shaft needs to be reduced. This is done by several ways:
1. Reduce the tip diameter
2. reduce the ferrule size (length of the ferrule)
3. use a light material for the ferrule.

The 12.75 "magic number" is mostly due to marketing strategies. Remember that when Predator came out with the 314 shaft over a decade ago, most cues came with a 13mm shaft and an inch long ferrule. This what players were used to and pool players do not adjust to dramatic changes that well, this is why the first phase was a 12.75mm tip diameter and 1/2 an inch ferrule. The Z shaft was the second phase and the second generation was the third phase that got the 314 shaft a 1/4 inch ferrule.

The rest of the "players" in the aftermarket shafts business just follow the leader with the specs....

p.s. just to make it clear - I do not work for predator no do I receive any payment or endorsements from Predator (although I wish I did), I'm just a fun that has been around for a while....
 
Then i would wonder, are those fat predator shaft really low deflection shafts still?

Also, Snooker cues are pretty low in deflection and they have brass ferrule! But they do tend to have much smaller tip size of about 10mm.

I do some what like the hit of the OB1 shaft but it seems to feel very "skinny" so somehow i think the way they taper the shaft has got something to do with the deflection. Not sure if they also made the front portion hollow.

I one thing i really do not like about predator shaft is for some slow acceleration screw shot to control the cue ball, the shaft hit sounds like it has cracked or something. but other wise the 314-2 are pretty good.

But believe it or not, the best low deflection shaft i have used was actually a pair of maple shafts made for me together with my titlist conversion by Jim Buss. I explained to him that I am a predator user and would like something similar. I remember he said something about the taper but he could not describe how he made it because he does it by feel.
 
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But believe it or not, the best low deflection shaft i have used was actually a pair of maple shafts made for me together with my titlist conversion by Jim Buss. I explained to him that I am a titlist user and would like something similar. I remember he said something about the taper but he could not describe how he made it because he does it by feel.
Imo if you make the front 6 light, make the back 6 medium stiff then the next 6 stiff, the front will deflect more off the cueball ( thereby the cueball squirting less ) . Speaking inches from the tip.
It feels good because your grip hand naturally gets more feedback from a stiffer shaft than a from a hollowed whippy shaft.
Go ahead measure your shaft. I bet it easily has 1MM taper in 12 inches.
 
JoeyInCali said:
But believe it or not, the best low deflection shaft i have used was actually a pair of maple shafts made for me together with my titlist conversion by Jim Buss. I explained to him that I am a titlist user and would like something similar. I remember he said something about the taper but he could not describe how he made it because he does it by feel.
Imo if you make the front 6 light, make the back 6 medium stiff then the next 6 stiff, the front will deflect more off the cueball ( thereby the cueball squirting less ) . Speaking inches from the tip.
It feels good because your grip hand naturally gets more feedback from a stiffer shaft than a from a hollowed whippy shaft.
Go ahead measure your shaft. I bet it easily has 1MM taper in 12 inches.
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Sorry i meant to say i am a predator user instead of titlist user, hence that sentence did not make much sense. I have edited it.

so you mean the front 12 inches has a 1mm taper on the maple shaft? I should measure the tip diameter and at the end of 12 inches the difference should be 1mm? Sorry i am not very familiar with this.

Also would what ferrule use matter? definitely not ivory. Some sort of fibre. I suppose it is LBM. Any ferrule will yield better results in terms of deflection?
 
MasterClass said:
Then i would wonder, are those fat predator shaft really low deflection shafts still?
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The FAT shaft is a "low deflection" shaft compare to a regular shaft but it will generate more deflection then the standard 314 or the Z shaft.

The front end mass of the FAT shaft is still lower because of the ferrule material being used and its length.
Another mean to reduce the front end mass that is used by Predator is making the first few inches of the shaft hollow.
 
Sorry guys, i know i am beating the dead horse here, but i am pretty sure i saw it twitching!

Just wanted an opinion. If the 314 fats shafts are constructed the same way as the 314-2 then there is this hollow bit in the front. Hence thought stiffer which i believe is because of the thicker, the hollow feel will still be present? Anyone has a different opinion or experience?

How is the OB1 shafts constructed? what is the technology behind the low deflection? I have read about the funky flower lamination and stuff, i dun believe that is all to it.

Could they also come up with a thicker shaft? but better performance in deflection or at least little difference? Do the guys from OB1 post here?
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question, if so just PM me and tell me to burn in hell. Do OB shafts or the 314 shafts make their shafts in a different diameter. I personally like 12mm-10mm tips better. Is it possible to get a OB or 314 shaft in one of those sizes for one of my cues? I wanted to get one for my cues, but I don't know if it is smart to buy a shaft that cost more than what you pay for the entire cue. I just always thought the shaft is more the shooting and performance part and the butt is more of a decorative part other than for the weight distribution part. Correct me if I am wrong, I'm a newbie, teach me. :D

Thanks in advance.

Happy shooting! :)

Chino
 
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Predator 314 shaft is 12.75 mm diameter.

Z shaft is 11.75 mm diameter.

And I believe the OB1 shaft is 12.75 mm diameter.

Anything less than that your looking at a snooker cue.

As for whether or not they are a good buy, I would recommend any of them. Since your signature states that you play with a 12mm tip, I would go for the OB or the 314 as they are closer to what you are used to.

The most important part of the cue is the tip by the way ;)
 
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Cameron Smith said:
Predator 314 shaft is 12.75 mm diameter.

Z shaft is 11.75 mm diameter.

And I believe the OB1 shaft is 12.75 mm diameter.

Anything less than that your looking at a snooker cue.

As for whether or not they are a good buy, I would recommend any of them. Since your signature states that you play with a 12mm tip, I would go for the OB or the 314 as they are closer to what you are used to.

The most important part of the cue is the tip by the way ;)
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I don't know the diameter of the schmelke shaft that I have, but I really like it. I have average size hands and with the 13mm shaft, it is hard to perform the close bridge, but with the slimer shaft of the schmelke, I could perform the close bridge a lot smoother. (I usually use an open bridge and am trying to learn the close bridge).

So far, I have only played with Le Pro and Elk Master tip. I have heard a lot about Moori, Sniper, Kamui, Everest and all those tips, never got to play with any of them. It seems to me the solution people came down to about tip brand and the hardest is all personal preference correct?

I saw one of those sneakiest pete at the for sale section that came with the OB2 shafts, I want it soooo bad, especially the tulipwood one :thumbup2:


Tips and shafts :embarrassed2: great talk haha

Chino
 
What ever you do, but one that is made with the small diameter tip. Do not try to turn down an existing shaft especially so with the predator. Those shafts cannot take it.
 
MasterClass said:
What ever you do, but one that is made with the small diameter tip. Do not try to turn down an existing shaft especially so with the predator. Those shafts cannot take it.
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Actually I'm pretty new, can you explain it a bit better if you would please? Thanks in advance.

I just measured my two shafts, the one on the GW is a 13mm and the one on the Schmelke is 12.75mm. Over all, I like the 12.75 more than the 13mm. Through it is only .25mm difference, but it is very noticable to me.

The 13mm is a little too thick to me, but I am sure this is just my personal preference as I don't have really large hands and my fingers are rather on the skinnier side. I don't think I have shot anything with a smaller diameter shaft than the Schmelke that I have (I haven't shot too many different cues) but I wonder what a 12.50mm would feel like, I might like it better. I wouldn't mind trying one of those 11.75mm OBs that Aristo mentioned earlier. As far as tip wise, I really want to try some other tips other than Le Pro and Elk Master, like the Moori, Kaumi, Tiger and all those other tips that everyone raves about.

Happy shooting! :)

Chino
 
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