Phenolic Jump/Break Combos

[billiardbum]

I have put on Jump/Break Combos for a couple of years, and have cut and turned all of mine from flat stock phenolic up until now. I have bought the rod from Atlas, and it is a lot easier to make them. I have had some come back cracked. Has anyone else had this problem? My real question is how deep do you drill and tap the hole on a 1 inch Phenolic ferrule? Do you chamfer the tenon when it is threaded? Conversations from Chad from Atlas explained how to make them, but I believe it is exactly the way I am making them now. Also one other thing, which phenolic are you buying? Canvas or Linen? Maybe I am buying the wrong stuff! Thanks to all in advance for your replies...

Jim

 

[Cue Crazy]

Jim,

I don't put on hundreds of these a year or anything, but I've made a few both from the black linen, and from the natural canvas rod.
I have'nt had any come back with cracks That I remember off the top of My head. I have faced and fitted with super pros though on ocasion, cause some people prefer that combo, but still no cracks.
I do champer the end sometimes, but I like to chase the threads with a bottom tap, so I Don't have to remove as much wood to bottom out.

Hope this helps, but always possible You got a different batch then I. Mine all came from stock I purchased some time back.

Greg

 

[manwon]

I have put on Jump/Break Combos for a couple of years, and have cut and turned all of mine from flat stock phenolic up until now. I have bought the rod from Atlas, and it is a lot easier to make them. I have had some come back cracked. Has anyone else had this problem? My real question is how deep do you drill and tap the hole on a 1 inch Phenolic ferrule? Do you chamfer the tenon when it is threaded? Conversations from Chad from Atlas explained how to make them, but I believe it is exactly the way I am making them now. Also one other thing, which phenolic are you buying? Canvas or Linen? Maybe I am buying the wrong stuff! Thanks to all in advance for your replies...

Jim

Hello Jim, I had the same problem when I was installing them on a Tenon. I have since started drill down the shaft 1 1/4 inch threading the inside of the shaft. Then cutting a piece of Phenolic rod to 2 1/4th inch length and threading 1 1/4th inch of it, adding epoxy and screwing it into the shaft.
This way your Phenolic ferrule is solid, it will not make the ping sound when you hit the cue ball and in a year and half I have never had one crack and this also includes the shaft.

By the way, I like the Brown linen for Jump break ferrules better than the Black material.

 

[dave sutton]

I have put on Jump/Break Combos for a couple of years, and have cut and turned all of mine from flat stock phenolic up until now. I have bought the rod from Atlas, and it is a lot easier to make them. I have had some come back cracked. Has anyone else had this problem? My real question is how deep do you drill and tap the hole on a 1 inch Phenolic ferrule? Do you chamfer the tenon when it is threaded? Conversations from Chad from Atlas explained how to make them, but I believe it is exactly the way I am making them now. Also one other thing, which phenolic are you buying? Canvas or Linen? Maybe I am buying the wrong stuff! Thanks to all in advance for your replies...

Jim

call chad and ast him how he does ivory. he had a special bit slightly bigger bc while tapping the chunks cant get out and that makes the ferrule crack

there are also special taps you can buy that have staggered teeth to make room for the material comming out. stil 5x16-18

i also only use 3/4 not a full inch smaller i found is stronger

i used brown and black and havent had one crack so far

 

[Cue Crazy]

Hello Jim, I had the same problem when I was installing them on a Tenon. I have since started drill down the shaft 1 1/4 inch threading the inside of the shaft. Then cutting a piece of Phenolic rod to 2 1/4th inch length and threading 1 1/4th inch of it, adding epoxy and screwing it into the shaft.
This way your Phenolic ferrule is solid, it will not make the ping sound when you hit the cue ball and in a year and half I have never had one crack and this also includes the shaft.

By the way, I like the Brown linen for Jump break ferrules better than the Black material.

I made a threaded tenon from phenolic one time, only I put a regular ferrule on It. had a personal shaft that needed a new tenon, and wanted to see how it felt. It did hit hard and solid. Seems like It did break well, and It held up.

Greg

 

[manwon]

I made a threaded tenon from phenolic one time, only I put a regular ferrule on It. had a personal shaft that needed a new tenon, and wanted to see how it felt. It did hit hard and solid. Seems like It did break well, and It held up.

Greg

Greg, it works very well, and while many people do not openly talk about it, I suppose I let the cat out of the bag Woop's

There is no better way!!!!

 

[Mc2]

Hello Jim, I had the same problem when I was installing them on a Tenon. I have since started drill down the shaft 1 1/4 inch threading the inside of the shaft. Then cutting a piece of Phenolic rod to 2 1/4th inch length and threading 1 1/4th inch of it, adding epoxy and screwing it into the shaft.
This way your Phenolic ferrule is solid, it will not make the ping sound when you hit the cue ball and in a year and half I have never had one crack and this also includes the shaft.

By the way, I like the Brown linen for Jump break ferrules better than the Black material.

Sounds like this would work very well. What would need to be done if the ferrule needed to be replaced in the future or the customer wants the shaft put back to original if they didn't like the phenolic? Seems like this would be kind of permenant IMHO.

thanks, Jimbo

 

[RocketQ]

I don't know if the other shops around me are not properly installing the combos but I have had 4 repairs in the last 2 weeks that caved in. Looks like somebody took a 3/16th drill in the center of the ferrule. I cut em off thread an lbm and put a brown canvas tip on. Works great and thill looks like a tip.

 

[billiardbum]

I see what you are saying, but most people are just trying them, and sometimes they have me remove it, and replace with normal ferrule and tip. If this happens, I guess it does not matter, because you still have the tenon in Phenolic. Thanks for the advice. Jim

 

[Zims Rack]

I see what you are saying, but most people are just trying them, and sometimes they have me remove it, and replace with normal ferrule and tip. If this happens, I guess it does not matter, because you still have the tenon in Phenolic. Thanks for the advice. Jim

That's kind of what I was thinking! If the customer decides they want a regular ferrule and tip, then cut the phenolic down for the tenon.

Zim

 

[cueman]

To answer your question I leave about one half inch of solid cap on my combos. I usually make them about 1.125" to 1.250" long to make up for the lost tip length. I also drill a small glue relief hole. You will find a lot of people sell the linen instead of canvas material and it is a little weaker. I do round over the top of the tenon and I also make a solid shoulder about 1/8" long by 5/16 and center drill the ferrule with a 5/16 center drill to allow for that alignment shoulder. I have not had one crack since I switched from linen to canvas, but did have a few crack with the prettier linen phenolic. Jim, come by my booth at the Super Billiards Expo in March and I will show you even a better way to do the combo. I don't want to give it away on here this soon, but it works much better for the controlled break and still jumps the same. My High-Power Break Jump Cues are now built with this method and it is the best thing I have seen so far for performance.

 

[billiardbum]

To answer your question I leave about one half inch of solid cap on my combos. I usually make them about 1.125" to 1.250" long to make up for the lost tip length. I also drill a small glue relief hole. You will find a lot of people sell the linen instead of canvas material and it is a little weaker. I do round over the top of the tenon and I also make a solid shoulder about 1/8" long by 5/16 and center drill the ferrule with a 5/16 center drill to allow for that alignment shoulder. I have not had one crack since I switched from linen to canvas, but did have a few crack with the prettier linen phenolic. Jim, come by my booth at the Super Billiards Expo in March and I will show you even a better way to do the combo. I don't want to give it away on here this soon, but it works much better for the controlled break and still jumps the same. My High-Power Break Jump Cues are now built with this method and it is the best thing I have seen so far for performance.

Chris,

This is what I was looking for, I am doing it a little different than you are. I will try your method. I will come and visit you there for sure. Thanks Chris. Jim