picking a cue

matthias1988

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I want to know everything. What joints do what and benefits for them, what type of woods non woods and benefits of each. What the size of the tip does for a player. I heard smaller tips have the ability to put more english(with an accurate hit) on the cue ball, is there any truth to this. What the difference between a 100 dollar cue and a 300 dollar cue.
 
I want to know everything. What joints do what and benefits for them, what type of woods non woods and benefits of each. What the size of the tip does for a player. I heard smaller tips have the ability to put more english(with an accurate hit) on the cue ball, is there any truth to this. What the difference between a 100 dollar cue and a 300 dollar cue.



under $100 you get junk

over $500 you're just paying for bling

spend more than $100 and buy something made of maple.. all the rest is hype, marketing, and decorations.
 
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Hi Matthias,

1.) if we re talking about diameter/radius on shafts, there usualy we speak about a range from 11,75mm to 13 mm. If you re using a smaller tip some ppl say, that it s easier for them to aim. In my opinion this point you can just test on your own. But it is right, that you can vary a bit more with english. (not more or less, you can vary more). On the other side it is imo also a bit harder to play with it, bc you have to very accurate (makes sense i hope :) ).
Further here we ll come into the popular discussion about Low-Deflection. the most so called *low-deflection* shafts are thinner. This is caused because the cuemaker here try to reduce end-masse to get lower deflection (can be reached with several ways-but this would go too far here). A very good cuemaker can also creat a very good non-laminated shaft just using good wood (old-growth), a good taper and a smaller ferrule. But let me end here- LD is a never-ending story :-)

2.) If we come to talk about wood- well, that s very special. here you need usualy a ton of knowlede a great cuemaker can talk about, or a cue-a-holic who tested many many cues. some woods are extremly heavy (ebony for example) other not (birds-eye for example). Here you ll see later, what a cuemaker knows ^^. Usualy heavier woods are *cored*-means that they put a another kind of wood (a lighter one) and put it together to receive a better weight. Otherwise some cues would be to heavy.

3.) Joints. also for some ppl discussion sworth. there are wood-to-wood, piloted joints etc. - Here is also just your personal feeling asked. What do you prefer, what feels best for you-or just what looks better :-)

4.) Price: Uhm- endless ...llike you ve seen already. Imo (and i m very sure about it :p) if you have a Sneaky Pete (without inlays etc) and done by a good cuemaker you ll get here the best for your money. I just think usualy in Euros-- but in Dollars i think from 250-450 Dollars you can get Sneaky Petes. And no cue which will be more expensive has a better playing-ability. Here you ll pay just for the *look*.

5.) Procuciont Cues vs Custom Cues
Choice of what u want for your money my friend. Meanwhile you can get very nice Custom Cues for a superb Price. Here you have the advantage that the cue will like you will have it. Weight, length, look etc. - but also Production Cues have great player abilities. For example Mezz is an absoltley high-quality cue- the range here is also from 250 Dollars to 3-4 thousand dollars.
But: Money doesn t win^^ it s always the Indian...not the arrow (like said so often by Scott-Lee, a very nice and true sentence)
Production-Cues with quality from my opinion:
Mezz, Schon, McDermott, Jacoby,Pechauer

Custom Cues.....you have so terrible many good _Cuemakers in the USA...would take too long :) the AzB will help you out here-
I can highly recommend Bryan Mordt- her you ll get a ton and quality for your money. (but there are for sure several others).

Your question itself "difference 100-300" is difficult. 100 dollar is a bit low imo if you love pool :) If you spent 300-500 $ you ll have a cue which usualy follow you a lifetime. The higher priced cues have often a better shaft-quality. And imo the shaft quality makes the music.

My personal advice for you- Try out some cue from McDermott for example you will really get a very good cue for your money- and the shafts are also really good (afaik they offer 3-4 different shafts).

Hope i helped you a bit- but the vocabulary often isn t available that i would choose in german....lol. I could write wide more about each point, so i hoped i let you know what you wanted to know. If not- you could post this question also in the Cuemaker Section or in the Main-Forum. You ll get 100 of responses :p (some helpful, some nonsense, like always ^^)

lg from overseas,

Ingo
and now i have to go-- watching 1st division team league. Ortmann and Roschkowsky will play today :)
 
matthias, you asked to know about "everything". While Ratta did a great job hitting all your bullet points, you can read about each seperate point here on the forums, and keep yourself busy for a very long time.

I'm not one to immediately reply "use the search function" like you might see here from time to time, because I've had a frustrating time with it myself. But in this instance, it really will help. LD shafts, for instance. Search that and you'll find so many threads it'll make your head spin.

The good news is that those threads will contain a lot of direct reviews from users. The bad news is that you aren't going to get any concrete answers, because there are so many opinions. My suggestion is that you use these forums to gather as much info as you can, and that will help you decide what is important to you. I did so before I bought my first cue, and am quite happy with it. (For the record, in the $200-$300 range, but shop, shop, shop prices, too!)

Check out the cuemakers forum, too.

Lastly, if you want more specific information than you find, ask about one facet of your search at a time. Asking about "everything" will probably get you "nothing"...
 
I want to know everything. What joints do what and benefits for them, what type of woods non woods and benefits of each. What the size of the tip does for a player. I heard smaller tips have the ability to put more english(with an accurate hit) on the cue ball, is there any truth to this. What the difference between a 100 dollar cue and a 300 dollar cue.

I am assuming by your questions that you are reletively new to the game. I applaud you for attempting to research equipment choices, but quite honestly, a reletive new player is probably not going to notice much difference between different joints, shafts, tips, etc.

When I was selling cues, I would usually suggest a new player spend around $100 on a cue, and learn how to use it. The most important thing in your game is NOT which cue you have, but how YOU move it! As you become a better player, the small differences between joints, tips, etc will become more noticable to you. At that point, you may want to start thinking about all those things.

Learn what is important first. Until you do, what cue you have in your hands will have very little impact on your success.

Steve
 
it's a relative to your personal tastes, ability. technique, and style
although some folks will like a stronger taper or bigger tip on a shaft for playing 14.1 than some of the rotation games, it's just finding out what suits you.
some people can draw the dots off the ball with a big tip, and some can do it with a small one.
some people have style and flair so they play with a 5K+tascarella, and some folks will beat the pants off you with their 40 dollar cuetec in a neon pink vinyl case. in either case, they're happy as who they are.
 
I heard smaller tips have the ability to put more english(with an accurate hit) on the cue ball, is there any truth to this.

With a smaller diameter tip, the contact patch will be closer to the center axis of the cue as the cue is moved farther off center.

For a given offset from center of the cue's axis, the contact patch will be farther from center with a smaller diameter tip than a larger diameter tip, and therefore cause more spin (ignoring other factors).

If you offset the larger tip more and so the contact patch is in the same place, you will get the same spin.
 
What the difference between a 100 dollar cue and a 300 dollar cue.
There really isn't a difference, it's all about the players preference and how comfortable you feel shooting with the stick... I have shot with many high dollar pool sticks from $30 - $1200... I have found that I shoot best with the Fury DL series my self, which only cost me $92 before I added a kamuii black tip.... I actually try out many sticks every chance I get just to see how well I play with them, so I wouldn't go by the cost of the stick....
 
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