Piloted vs. non-piloted joint
- Thread starter luke
- Start date
No problem. Most piloted joints have floating inserts that other then adding an additional thread of two, do not play a role stabilizing the joint in any way. A few cue makers make piloted joints that screw in tight, Searing comes to mind, but most the shaft just buts up.
Don't know that I like all that empty space...the only reason for a piloted joint is so all areas make full contact. I would have the insert changed and do a piloted one. keeps the cue somewhat in original form. But that's just me.
Mario
Can you change a 3/8x10 flat to a 5/16x18 piloted shaft just by changing or adding an insert?
RBC
Deceased
Luke,
Yes you can.
You do need to check the diameters though.
Most 3/8-10 shafts are around .850", and most 5/16-18's are .830" to .840".
If yours falls into this category, then you have the material to cut down to make it fit. It will require re-tapering and finishing the joint end of the cue shaft.
Also, the pilot on 99% of piloted cues doesn't really do anything so it won't be a problem going flat faced.
Yes you can.
You do need to check the diameters though.
Most 3/8-10 shafts are around .850", and most 5/16-18's are .830" to .840".
If yours falls into this category, then you have the material to cut down to make it fit. It will require re-tapering and finishing the joint end of the cue shaft.
Also, the pilot on 99% of piloted cues doesn't really do anything so it won't be a problem going flat faced.
I don't see any major problem with using it flat faced. And like has been mentioned you can put a insert in the 3/8-10 shaft to make it piloted. If you are worried about the hollowness of the piloted hole as some have mentioned. Go get a few tiny faucet o-rings and put them around the screw and fill the hole up. That will cut down a little on the noise.