Pin Change

B

bigdogk9

Banned
I have an old Predator Green Veneer Sneaky pete with a flat face 5/16-14 pin. I'd like to have it changed out to a uni-loc.

What is the recommendations?

Plug with Phenolic and install pin?
Remove original pin and just install uni-loc?
Does this need a collar installed?

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 20150805_163600.jpg
    20150805_163600.jpg
    100.8 KB · Views: 408
bigdogk9 said:
I have an old Predator Green Veneer Sneaky pete with a flat face 5/16-14 pin. I'd like to have it changed out to a uni-loc.

What is the recommendations?

Plug with Phenolic and install pin?
Remove original pin and just install uni-loc?
Does this need a collar installed?

Thanks
Click to expand...

There are probably guys who would just trade cues with you to get that intact. The 5/16x14 Predators are more desirable.
 
Aloha

How about I purchase your cue from you and you can go buy the one you want with the uniloc joint. Hit me up.

Aloha
 
5/16-14 collarless is an awesome combination, and is what makes those old Predator sneakies play great... so changing to a weaker pin/adding a collar etc., can only make the cue play worse imo.
Like other have said, it is a great cue as is, and you'll have no trouble finding someone to buy/trade for it so you can get the cue with the specs you want.
 
pin

Thanks for your opinions. I'm not asking if I should or shouldn't change the pin. The reason for wanting to change is this is a very slim butt cue (which I like) and I have 8 older 314 shafts that I use and would like to mate this cue to them.

So what's the best way to change to a uni-loc
 
You could change the uniloc inserts on your 8 predator shafts to fit this pin ;) might make them more valuable!

Most cue builders here hate uni-loc if you can't tell. Send it back to predator, they might be able to help.
 
bigdogk9 said:
Thanks for your opinions. I'm not asking if I should or shouldn't change the pin. The reason for wanting to change is this is a very slim butt cue (which I like) and I have 8 older 314 shafts that I use and would like to mate this cue to them.

So what's the best way to change to a uni-loc
Click to expand...


The change should be very simple for an experianced person. I don't remember the 5/16x14 joint screws having a shoulder on them.
1- Remove the joint screw.
2-Check the dept of the hole
3-Bore for the countersink and shoulder on the uni loc
4- Install the screw with the proper expoxy. No quick drying expoxy for this. There's mixed emotions on epoxies on this forum. I know what works and what doesn't.
5- After the uni loc dries in place, face the joint and your done.
Best move, find someone close to you to do the work.
I'm not taking any work but I Hope this helps.
Sorry, got ahead of myself.
Most 5/16 joint screws I've seen are 3" long. They usually go in 2-1/8 to 2-1/4 deep.
Uni loc goes in 2-5/16.
Very important that the uni loc screw gets wet sanded with 2500 and 3000, then polished before installation. I use uni loc in half the cues I build. It's a great system when done properly.
 
Last edited:
Michael Webb said:
Very important that the uni loc screw gets wet sanded with 2500 and 3000, then polished before installation. I use uni loc in half the cues I build. It's a great system when done properly.
Click to expand...

Mike, are you talking about wet sanding the barrel, or the 5/16x14 anchoring threads?
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Mike, are you talking about wet sanding the barrel, or the 5/16x14 anchoring threads?
Dave
Click to expand...


Hi Dave:
No, never polish what goes inside the butt and glued. The stem that fits into the brass insert only. The finish on the uni loc screws is rough, this is the major cause of the butt and shaft freezing together. The tolerances are awesome but because the screws being offered are not polished properly, a little dirt will lock them up. I tell my customers at least once a month or two, put some alcohol or finger nail polish remover on a Q tip, swirl it around inside the brass insert. Air dries quick and you won't have any trouble. Most of them don't use joint protectors.
Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the response Mike. I have to agree about the sticking issue. I have seen this many times, just didn't think to do what you have suggested. I will try your method on the next one I do. I already had to change my son's breaker pin due to not being able to get it apart, then when we did, it was damaged and needed to be changed.
Have a great weekend Mike.
Dave
 
If you want to change to a uni-lock pin, I see no problem in that.
A collar is easy to install.
Not a huge fan of uni-lock myself as I find they tend to loosen or want come apart, due to dust buildup. I`m a 3/8x10 and 5/16x14 guy.
But I understand your reason to change if you have several uni-lock shafts you would like to use.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top