Pivot Point
- Thread starter devindra
- Start date
I would say no to using ink. Ink tends to diffuse into the wood fibers, and is very difficult to remove, even with sanding.
An alternative is to cut out a small wedge of one of those white hole reinforcers (also useful for marking ball positions on felt) and put it where you want it. They peel off easily, and any residual glue comes off with a little rubbing or burnishing. If you want it black instead of white, ink the reinforcer before cutting it.
An alternative is to cut out a small wedge of one of those white hole reinforcers (also useful for marking ball positions on felt) and put it where you want it. They peel off easily, and any residual glue comes off with a little rubbing or burnishing. If you want it black instead of white, ink the reinforcer before cutting it.
Short answer is not necessarily.devindra said:
Now in more depth.
It depends on how you found this pivot point whether it is the pivot point where squirt and cue pivot angle cancel out precisely, or a longer pivot point where some swerve is bringing the CB back to the pre-pivot aim point.
If you want the CB to hit an initial aim point, you need to vary the pivot distance according to changes in shot length, speed of shot, cloth stickiness and cue elevation. So, for example a long slow shot with english and draw (hence more elevation) would require a much longer pivot distance that a power shot from one foot away where there is less time for the CB to swerve.
Also, even if you can hit the exact same aim point, you can still miss the shot!
For example, line up a 3/4 ball cut shot as if potting with soft stun. Then pivot and play the shot with a fair amount of OE. If you hit the exact same contact point on the OB, the angle of the OB will be about 1 inch off for every foot it travels. On a 3 foot shot you'll miss the pocket. That's the effect of throw.
This is why BHE or aim & pivot methods lack power without knowing how to make adjustments. But it can be very powerful once you learn them.
Colin
Colin Colenso said:
I thought the more deflection the shorter the bridge. I have got a feel on how to adjust my pivot point when playing. When I have to load the cue ball up with spin I tend to shorten my bridge to make the shot.
Do you use back hand english? In your opinion is back hand english better than parallel english?
If you're not using BHE (Aim & Pivot) then why are you concerned about your cue's pivot point?devindra said:
I think BHE can be a more accurate aiming system than 'what is wrongly called' parallel english, but it takes a fair bit of knowledge. Search youtube for Back Hand English. I have an introductory video on it there.
Colin
Colin Colenso said:
I'm surprised to see you ask this question Colin.
The cues pivot point is the answer to the question how much does this cue squirt? and this issue is relevant to to anyone wanting to hit with sidespin, no matter how they arrive at their aim.
I know what you mean Mike. Knowing a cue's pivot point is a handy qualitative reference point for the cue's squirt characteristics.mikepage said:
I just wasn't sure why Devindra was talking about placing the bridge at the pivot point and then mentioning getting more deflection with a shorter bridge made me think he/she was not using BHE :~
Colin
That doesn't happen for me as a general rule for all shots.devindra said:
Is there a particular type of shot you often play where this comes up? e.g. 1/2 ball Inside English medium speed, 2 feet between CB and OB?
That might help me to work out why you're getting this effect.
Colin
devindra said:
I am still confused a bit...
Do you mean that if you set up a shot..and hit that same shot twice you may have two different bridge lengths from the first to the second shot?
If the answer is yes......with all due respect I would suggest seeking out an instructor or at least a routine that gives you a consistent set up.
Scott or Randy would be my first choice for a set up consistency problem like this.
How did you determine your cue's pivot point? I ask because there have been widely varying pivot lengths reported for the same type of shaft, eg, Predators.devindra said:
In Ron Shepard's treatment of the physics of squirt (deflection), there really is no single pivot point; its location varies a little with tip offset. The amount that it varies can be an inch or so, depending on its "average" position. His theory is based on a fixed amount of endmass, a more or less necessary simplification which avoids some very difficult complications, but which may not be exactly true. Nevertheless, according to this, it's unlikely that you're going to be pivoting at the true pivot point for most shots anyway. You could try to determine the range of pivot positions, but it may not be worth the trouble - it seems that it's hard enough to get the nominal location to high accuracy.devindra said:
Jim