Pocketing balls on the break

boyersj

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have been through the lessons, became an instructor and have taught quite a few of my own lessons. Myself and my students are a combined 7-0 in APA playoffs, with 2 teams qualifying for the Tri-annual phase of NTC qualification.

My mechanics have improved dramatically but there is one significant aspect of my game that has been unchanged and it cripples me badly; the break (primarily in 8-ball).

In both 8ball and 9ball the break is extremely important as to the next shooter can control the game's tempo. I have a pretty good break for 9ball but my 8ball break is traditionally problematic. I used to hit front ball with alot of velocity (including shoulder drop). I hit the rack pretty square with alot of velocity but balls wouldn't fall in with any regularity. Also it was difficult to overcome the rebound with the high velocity break so I would scratch back in the corner pockets frequently.

Since I have addressed my mechanics I control the ball more and hit the rack with a little less velocity (because I don't add a wind-up) and have also been hitting the second ball break that seems more practical with the more controlled accurate stroke.

I do have a break-rak and practice point of contact frequently, problem I am facing is a very low percentage of balls pocketed on the break. Half of my innings per match are from dry-breaks and I have had two (2) consecutive matches where I break 4 times without a ball pocketed.

Any guidance or information to improve this very important aspect would be greatly appreciated. I don't want my very competitive team to miss a trip to National's because I can't pocket balls on the break :)
 
Hi Steve

The average balls on break is about 50-60%, that's not bad at all.

Sounds like you need to take some speed of the cue ball.

randyg
 
If you break from the side rail, right or left, just behind the line & hit the apex ball coming from the side pocket that you are shooting from it has a very high chance to go into the opposite side pocket. The cue has a tendancy to scratch into the corner pocket so hit the break with draw to draw it into the long rail. I & others hit it with low outside to also spin it a bit back up table as well from off the rail.

You can vary the speed of the shot for defensive purposes as well, so a dry break does not leave the table wide open for a run out.

Try it, I think with a bit of practice that you will like it.

Regards,
 
A large part of breaking knowledge is in being able to read both the table and the rack.

Each table has it's sweet spot for breaking, which can change over time, but not in a single evening. You also have to know when a rack is racked in your favor or against you.

You can hit the balls perfectly all day long, but if you're breaking from the wrong spot, you won't make a ball.
 
A large part of breaking knowledge is in being able to read both the table and the rack.

Each table has it's sweet spot for breaking, which can change over time, but not in a single evening. You also have to know when a rack is racked in your favor or against you.

You can hit the balls perfectly all day long, but if you're breaking from the wrong spot, you won't make a ball.

Tap tap tap !

Gesendet von meinem GT-I9100 mit Tapatalk 2
 
A few things you might try:

1. Try hitting a few breaks with closer to a stop shot stroke than an all-out blast. Hit the head ball full on, no matter where you start from with the cue ball. See if you like the spread better.

2. Do your typical break but if you have the base of the cue ball right on the string, move it back from the string 1/4 or 1/2 an inch. Sometimes this helps with timing and gets more balls to drop.

3. Consider in matches whether you want to break or yield the break to your opponent. If a particular table is tough to break on, why not let them open the rack so you can run and win?

More Break Tips
 
Actually, I find that more balls go in when using the stick speed needed to send the cue ball down the table, back, and down the table (3 table lengths).

This speed is table-specific, so adjust the speed for the table size, and cloth.

You can test the "three-table-length" speed when practicing and see if it helps.
 
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