Point alignment

PracticeChampion

Well-known member
I can't get my points perfect, sometimes there 1/8" off, sometimes 1/4" and rarely acceptable. Is there a way of adjusting them to perfect?
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
If your setup for cutting the pockets are spot on and the veneers are all the exact same thickness there should not be a problem.
These are the first 2 places I would look to make sure even points come out consistent.

How you are cutting the pockets.....?
With what you are cutting the pockets....?
These are also a couple places that may need to be addressed.
 

CamposCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yes, check your pockets. If they are ending dead even after cutting the groove, that is a good start. I then try to keep everything perfectly on center (obviously) and keep the original centers throughout the process. You can't have any run out at the A joint or anywhere once assembled and have the points come out dead even or I can't anyhow. You can cheat a little shimming if you have one point a little higher. It is impressive how little it takes to throw the point lengths off though.
 

PracticeChampion

Well-known member
If your setup for cutting the pockets are spot on and the veneers are all the exact same thickness there should not be a problem.
These are the first 2 places I would look to make sure even points come out consistent.

How you are cutting the pockets.....?
With what you are cutting the pockets....?
These are also a couple places that may need to be addressed.
Midwest lathe using a router with 90° bit and I also bought the auto feed for the carriage. Seems to run real true
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
Personally, I never cared for the 90* included bits. For me, too much chance for possible tool pressure and push off.
Some guys like them but have probably figured out how to compensate for the challenges they can present.
There's no perfect way, but some setups may have less of a challenge. imo... I've gravitated to the mill and using a straight bit set up at a 45* going into the side of the forearm. I've seen the difference in what I believe to be sharper ended points with less pressure and possible tool push off.
xFLSrzv.jpg

I also use an indexing setup that I can take the forearm out of the fixture if needed and replace it back in the fixture with almost absolute dead nuts accuracy.
These things and what Campos eluded too about holding your center points on the forearm and when you attach your forearm to the handle you will need "zero" run out at the A joint. Not cutting any run out off on the first pass after attachment. You will inherit a series of other problems by making it look "OK" on the outside of the assembly.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Personally, I never cared for the 90* included bits. For me, too much chance for possible tool pressure and push off.
Some guys like them but have probably figured out how to compensate for the challenges they can present.
There's no perfect way, but some setups may have less of a challenge. imo... I've gravitated to the mill and using a straight bit set up at a 45* going into the side of the forearm. I've seen the difference in what I believe to be sharper ended points with less pressure and possible tool push off.
xFLSrzv.jpg

I also use an indexing setup that I can take the forearm out of the fixture if needed and replace it back in the fixture with almost absolute dead nuts accuracy.
These things and what Campos eluded too about holding your center points on the forearm and when you attach your forearm to the handle you will need "zero" run out at the A joint. Not cutting any run out off on the first pass after attachment. You will inherit a series of other problems by making it look "OK" on the outside of the assembly.
I would love to see that setup. The regular double angle cutter bits for wood does generate quite a bit of heat.
Since my CNC is out for an upgrade, I'm toying around with cutting points on the mill, using the spin indexer and a double angle HSS cutter, these are a lot more ridgid than the regular wood working ones.
double angle cutter.jpg
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I can't get my points perfect, sometimes there 1/8" off, sometimes 1/4" and rarely acceptable. Is there a way of adjusting them to perfect?
The most NON PARTICIPATED subject on this Forum
Is and always has been
Point construction.
WHY? Most people already know why! Lmfao!!!
To you the OP,
Keep your centers in tact. What you do to one channel, do to the rest.
 

PracticeChampion

Well-known member
The most NON PARTICIPATED subject on this Forum
Is and always has been
Point construction.
WHY? Most people already know why! Lmfao!!!
To you the OP,
Keep your centers in tact. What you do to one channel, do to the rest.
That's the problem, I do LoL. Must be getting vibration or something
 

CamposCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That's the problem, I do LoL. Must be getting vibration or something
Use the power feed for this operation. Cut first point groove to a partial depth, index to next point at same depth, index to next point at same depth, index to last point at same depth. Now go a little deeper with the groove and repeat the same operation. Repeat until your points are almost where you want them in length. Repeat this operation one more time making the last pass a light one so vibration is minimal. Don't push the power feed too fast during any of the cuts.
 

DeeDeeCues

Well-known member
Use the power feed for this operation. Cut first point groove to a partial depth, index to next point at same depth, index to next point at same depth, index to last point at same depth. Now go a little deeper with the groove and repeat the same operation. Repeat until your points are almost where you want them in length. Repeat this operation one more time making the last pass a light one so vibration is minimal. Don't push the power feed too fast during any of the cuts.

Great explanation. Skim passes and controlled motion are the keys to quality cuts in machining.
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
After cutting all 4 point grooves to what looks like the same in several small passes. Do one clean up pass on each point groove without resetting any depth cutting.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Are you cutting your Vee grooves between centers or chucking up on the Forearm?
Are you putting a line on the Forearm where you want the tips of the grooves to end?
Are your centers true?
 

PracticeChampion

Well-known member
Are you cutting your Vee grooves between centers or chucking up on the Forearm?
Are you putting a line on the Forearm where you want the tips of the grooves to end?
Are your centers true?
Between centers and yes I put a finish line on them, there good til the final tapers of the butt. Like you said in the other thread the problem is elsewhere and I agree 100% just don't know what is causing it. What's odd is sometimes on the final taper their perfect and others way off which makes me believe it's vibration
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Between centers and yes I put a finish line on them, there good til the final tapers of the butt. Like you said in the other thread the problem is elsewhere and I agree 100% just don't know what is causing it. What's odd is sometimes on the final taper their perfect and others way off which makes me believe it's vibration
Understood. I figured I would ask back in your thread
 

slim123

Active member
Between centers and yes I put a finish line on them, there good til the final tapers of the butt. Like you said in the other thread the problem is elsewhere and I agree 100% just don't know what is causing it. What's odd is sometimes on the final taper their perfect and others way off which makes me believe it's vibration
You need to be tapering on something better than what you are using , been there done that Cheap unreliable equipment will get you some horrible results
 

slim123

Active member
I love Vee points.
Show em
...
Please
.......
I was referring to alignment and tapering on equipment that is not up to par for that task. i don't do points just yet, but i have tried to taper someone else's prong, assembled to a handle, on a lower end lathe, too much work to make it right
 
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