Point cutting jig...

Zims Rack

Zims Rack

Promoting the Cueing Arts
Silver Member
Does anyone have plans for a jig to cut the points (prior to installing) to save on wood waste. I've seen the points cut in very useful sizes to limit excess waste and was wondering if someone would like to share how they built their jig or if anyone sells them.

Thanks,
Zim
 
Flip your bandsaw table to 45 degrees and cut your squares in half. That's about the only way I ever figured to reduce waste.
 
JoeyInCali said:
http://dzcues.com/point_blanks.htm
I think DZ did that on a compound angle saw.
Kinda scary though.
Click to expand...

I do the same thing on my bandsaw with the table tilted like Sheldon said. With a thin kerf blade, a good rest locked in the miter slot, and a tapered holder/jig for the square that slides on the rest/fence, you can do a good job. You can get 2 points from as small as 5/8 square, though I prefer something a little bigger.

I suspect Bob cuts his on a bandsaw also.

Kelly
 
Zims Rack said:
Does anyone have plans for a jig to cut the points (prior to installing) to save on wood waste. I've seen the points cut in very useful sizes to limit excess waste and was wondering if someone would like to share how they built their jig or if anyone sells them.

Thanks,
Zim
Click to expand...
i just v-grooved a 1 1/2" thick block of wood, sloted it in the center from the side so that it can be lined up with point of the square, clamp and push them through. simple to do and gives good results.
M.C.
 
JoeyInCali said:
http://dzcues.com/point_blanks.htm
I think DZ did that on a compound angle saw.
Kinda scary though.
Click to expand...

Hi Joey, if you're not sure, feel free to ask.

No compound angle saw used here. Like Sheldon, I flip my bandsaw table to 45 degrees but I go one step further and use a homemade jig to offset the squares at the angle I need, depending on the size of the square. Push the jig & the square through with a block of scrap wood. Nothing scary about it!

I'm not showing my jig but it's based on something like this:
 

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Zims Rack said:
This is the angle of cut I'm searching for! I'm sure there are jigs out there to set the square wood in and run across a table saw or band saw.

Thanks,
Zim
Click to expand...

I would not recommend this on a table saw, at least not the way I was doing it using mine before I got my bandsaw. If you had a nice jig that clamped and secured the square in some way that it wasn't sacrificed when you ripped the square, that might be another story.

The tapered jig I use to do this that I mentioned is very simple, but it works as long as you pay attention to what you are doing. It isn't very impressive looking, but if you want more information you can pm me.

If I imagine what he described correctly, curlyscues method sounds pretty good. Build a tapering jig the square rests on and slide the entire jig to get the desired skew.

Kelly
 
^
Thnx DZ.
Tweaking with the table saw is scary to me.
Unless I get that safe table saw where it retracts when it hits flesh.
Cue tinkerers can't afford them.
 
JoeyInCali said:
^
Thnx DZ.
Tweaking with the table saw is scary to me.
Unless I get that safe table saw where it retracts when it hits flesh.
Cue tinkerers can't afford them.
Click to expand...

I saw the hot dog demo for the Saw Stop recently. It was pretty impressive, but I still wouldn't try anything risky even with a Saw Stop. It just stops the saw half way through your fingers, and keeps the saw from cutting your fingers completely off.
 
desert1pocket said:
I saw the hot dog demo for the Saw Stop recently. It was pretty impressive, but I still wouldn't try anything risky even with a Saw Stop. It just stops the saw half way through your fingers, and keeps the saw from cutting your fingers completely off.
Click to expand...
Getting whacked in the head with 1 1/2 by 18 ain't too sporty either. :eek:
My mentor always lost his left hand on a kickback.
Could have been avoided with a nice triple grind blade and some common sense.
I just cut corners with band saw now. A lot safer than table saw.
The people at the emergency room knew his accident was caused by a table saw right away. They see them there all the time. :eek:
Most victims are PROFESSIONALS too.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Getting whacked in the head with 1 1/2 by 18 ain't too sporty either. :eek:
My mentor always lost his left hand on a kickback.
Could have been avoided with a nice triple grind blade and some common sense.
I just cut corners with band saw now. A lot safer than table saw.
The people at the emergency room knew his accident was caused by a table saw right away. They see them there all the time. :eek:
Most victims are PROFESSIONALS too.
Click to expand...

My Stepmom worked as a cabinet maker for years, and was very safety concious. She still lost 2 fingers when a piece had a bad unexpected kickback. Luckily they were able to sew them back on, and they work fine. Power tools are dangerous no matter how safety concious you are. I have refused to work with people on construction projects due to poor safety habits.
 
Kelly_Guy said:
I would not recommend this on a table saw, at least not the way I was doing it using mine before I got my bandsaw. If you had a nice jig that clamped and secured the square in some way that it wasn't sacrificed when you ripped the square, that might be another story.

The tapered jig I use to do this that I mentioned is very simple, but it works as long as you pay attention to what you are doing. It isn't very impressive looking, but if you want more information you can pm me.

If I imagine what he described correctly, curlyscues method sounds pretty good. Build a tapering jig the square rests on and slide the entire jig to get the desired skew.

Kelly
Click to expand...



Kelly, BTW, Did you get the blade figured out? Just curious If that Was the problem?

Greg
 
JoeyInCali said:
Getting whacked in the head with 1 1/2 by 18 ain't too sporty either. :eek:
My mentor always lost his left hand on a kickback.
Could have been avoided with a nice triple grind blade and some common sense.
I just cut corners with band saw now. A lot safer than table saw.
The people at the emergency room knew his accident was caused by a table saw right away. They see them there all the time. :eek:
Most victims are PROFESSIONALS too.
Click to expand...



They are dangerous, and you can get got by a table saw at any time. I remember when I was young My cousin cut his fingers pretty badly, and in school one time My shop teacher cut almost all the way through 3 of his fingers right in front of My eyes. it was pretty shocking to see up close.

I had a piece of billet strip I was cutting kick out of My table saw one time and stuck in the wall about 4 feet behind me. Just glad I was'nt standing in it's path.;)

I really need a good bandsaw, but looking for something reasonable in price that cuts well. I just have a cheap bench model and can't get the blade ajusted, it walks all over the place no matter what I do.:(

Greg
 
Cue Crazy said:
I really need a good bandsaw, but looking for something reasonable in price that cuts well. I just have a cheap bench model and can't get the blade ajusted, it walks all over the place no matter what I do.:(

Greg
Click to expand...

For the $ I don't think you can beat a Grizzley saw. I've had the 16" for 6+ years with minimal up keep. I added the ball bearing guides as the only upgrade. I tried about every brand of blade on the market and would not spend any more $ on anything but the Timber Wolf blades...Swedish silicon steel ones. Low tension and more important..long lasting.
Go to Timber Wolf's web page and order direct from them......they generally always have some type of deal going on. I just checked and they have 20% off of 5 blades.....which is about the same as buy 4 and get 5. I use the 3/4" 3tpi for resawing and 1/2" 6tpi for all my other general stuff.

Happy sawing.........
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
For the $ I don't think you can beat a Grizzley saw. I've had the 16" for 6+ years with minimal up keep. I added the ball bearing guides as the only upgrade. I tried about every brand of blade on the market and would not spend any more $ on anything but the Timber Wolf blades...Swedish silicon steel ones. Low tension and more important..long lasting.
Go to Timber Wolf's web page and order direct from them......they generally always have some type of deal going on. I just checked and they have 20% off of 5 blades.....which is about the same as buy 4 and get 5. I use the 3/4" 3tpi for resawing and 1/2" 6tpi for all my other general stuff.

Happy sawing.........
Click to expand...

My bandsaw is a grizzly. I looked at the Timber Wolf blades Grizzly advertises, but there was not a length that would fit on my saw. I will check out Timber Wolf directly and see...thanks for the idea.

Kelly
 
Cue Crazy said:
Kelly, BTW, Did you get the blade figured out? Just curious If that Was the problem?

Greg
Click to expand...

Well...in a word.. no I have not put another blade on it. With all the traveling :rolleyes: I have been doing (leaving again next Monday) I haven't gotten around to ordering and putting on another blade. Going to do it very soon...then get back to what I was trying to make...

Kelly
 
Here is a simple jig I built from aluminum. The angle will change depending on the length of the blank. Hope that helps some.
azresize4.jpg

azresize.jpg
 
Canadian cue said:
Here is a simple jig I built from aluminum. The angle will change depending on the length of the blank. Hope that helps some.
azresize4.jpg

azresize.jpg
Click to expand...

That is nearly identical to what I have set up. I use a base that slides into my T slot as a rest/fence. Because that isn't adjustable, I have 3 different jigs made of mdf sort of like what you have for different size squares.
Kelly
 
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