Points, Inlays, Veneers, Ringwork, and other embellishments

CocoboloCowboy

CocoboloCowboy

Cowboys are my hero's
Silver Member
My best Pool playing friend and I were debating weather Points, Inlays, Veneers, ringwork, and other embellishments effect the hit of a Cue.

He says his next custom Cue will be a plane jane with no nothing to effect hit of a cue.

I think he is gone off the deep end as his best hitting cue has 8 points in the Forearm, and another 8 points in the Butt, and it is his best playing cue.

I do not think embellishments effect a cue hit, but it does make em pretty.
flyingbrick.gif
 
One way to look at it is everything done to a cue affects the feel of it in one way or another. The question is can the effect be measured by a human?

Vee points certainly change the hit of a cue. If you took a cue with a solid ebony forearm and inlayed 4 long floating points of holly, I believe the owner of the cue might feel the difference. Could you pick up two cues that you don't know blindfolded and tell which one has inlays and which one doesn't? Probably not, but that doesn't mean the inlays and points didn't have an affect.

Kelly
 
I think it would depend most on the construction methods, and whether points are structural or not, such as a fullsplice vs floating points. And whether or not the cue is cored, or what types of pins join the different sections, what they are set in, the ferrule, tip. I think that trial and error are necessary to find what you like best. I happen to play with a birdseye plain jane with Ivory Joint, and love the hit. I have had plenty of cues over the years, all but my first, as well as my current player were pointed cues, and a couple of fullsplices. The Ivory joint is a must have when it comes to my playing cue, now or in the future as the hit gives me just the right amount of feedback and feel. So my answer is yes, they do effect the hit, depending on what embellishments you have. Where abouts in AZ are you cocobolacowboy?And may I suggest to your friend to try an ivory joint on his plain jane.
Regards,
Ian
 
I think people are going in the right direction on this. I know that there are purists that feel that anytime you take away wood out of a cue in negatively affects the hit. Inlays reduce the cues integrety they say. I think it is hard to argue with that, but how practical is that? I think it may have some truth to it, but we are talking about something that, at least to me is not noticeable. I think that cuemakers today are so good to make this a non issue. I mean if you wasn to be that technical, adding a joint would do much more than adding some inlays to affect the cues integrety.
Again, one piece construction may be the best in theory, but again not as practical as having a cue that comes apart. I think that cuemakers are so good that any of these potential issues aren't even a consideration. The best cues today are two piece cues because more effort goes into making great quality two piece cues than one piece cues.

So the answer is yes, but no:D
 
It has been scientifically proven that Billiard balls are frightend of Elephants therefore the mear presence of Ivory on the table causes them to run for the shelter of the pockets.

The more Ivory you have , the greater effect.

They also know the when Pearl , Silver and other exotic inlay materials are in the area , Ivory is not far behind and therefore again , invokes a similar responce.
 
RRfireblade said:
It has been scientifically proven that Billiard balls are frightend of Elephants therefore the mear presence of Ivory on the table causes them to run for the shelter of the pockets.

The more Ivory you have , the greater effect.

They also know the when Pearl , Silver and other exotic inlay materials are in the area , Ivory is not far behind and therefore again , invokes a similar responce.
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LMFAO!!! This is so true!!!

I have a cue with 6 large ivory Points in the Forearm and 6 in the butt. 24 Silver and Ivory Diamonds and 12 Abalone Inlays. Rings have some Ivory too.

You should be there to see that damn cue ball jump off the table each time I break just because it thinks I am going to pick up that cue and shoot.

:eek: Selling my playing cue first thing in the morning!!!

Rep for the Great post!
 
He's quite right. Of course, I am willing to take care of all his rubbish and will even pay shipping.

If he happens to own one of those bad-hitting black boar 8-pointers, I will of course pay a small compensation, say - 200 USD to compensate for the silver and ivory :-)

Regards,

Detlev
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
My best Pool playing friend and I were debating weather Points, Inlays, Veneers, ringwork, and other embellishments effect the hit of a Cue.

He says his next custom Cue will be a plane jane with no nothing to effect hit of a cue.

I think he is gone off the deep end as his best hitting cue has 8 points in the Forearm, and another 8 points in the Butt, and it is his best playing cue.

I do not think embellishments effect a cue hit, but it does make em pretty.
flyingbrick.gif
Click to expand...
Maybe wraps, pins, joints, finish and weight bolts have negative affect on cues. Just get a long stick and put a leather tip on it and you should be godd.
 
If the points are real splice (half of full) it changes the the feel and hit.
The splice was used to get better contact in times when the glues that was used wasn't that good.
Inlay point are just for looks trying to emulate the splice look.
Rings and inlays were used to adjust weight and balance point that also affect the feel and hit.

With modern construction methods, you don't need point, rings or inlays but they sure do look nice.
 
O.L. Briggs on side in sun.jpg


Pool_fanatic said:
. Just get a long stick and put a leather tip on it and you should be god
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Or get a stick that's about a hundred years old with a butt 1.39 inches thick (35mm) --- a Viking skinny is 1.2" (30.6mm)
Paul_#_

Thread '💯Four one-piece cues about 100-years old — $400 shipped💯'

Cues by O.L. Briggs & Son of Boston MA made sometime between 64 and 125 years ago during that business's existence. The company was O.L. Briggs between 1870 and 1900. Click here for proof.

The 16 and 17 ounce cues appear to be mahogany and maple, while the 18 and 19 ounce cues ---purple heart and maple.

Cue lengths are 57" to end of tenon. No ferrules on the cues but included are six buffalo-horn ferrules that can be installed (from Cue Components).

Butt diameters near bumper for the 16, 17, 18, and 19 ounce cues are 1.35", 1.37"...
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
My best Pool playing friend and I were debating weather Points, Inlays, Veneers, ringwork, and other embellishments effect the hit of a Cue.

He says his next custom Cue will be a plane jane with no nothing to effect hit of a cue.

I think he is gone off the deep end as his best hitting cue has 8 points in the Forearm, and another 8 points in the Butt, and it is his best playing cue.

I do not think embellishments effect a cue hit, but it does make em pretty.
flyingbrick.gif
Click to expand...
One of the great masters of cue building fiercely belived this. Martin would not do points or fancy ringwork because he felt it changed the hit and feedback of the cue so significantly.

Honestly this all comes down to what you need your cue butt to do. Is it only delivering stroke or do you also require it to deliver consistent feedback to your hand?

My experience has been the more shit you do to the forearm with inlays and points and multiple materials the less of that feedback that makes it to your hand. Makers try to get around this by having a solid core of maple running from the joint to the sleeve but that's a hack and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

I'm having a BEM merry widow built for me right now with old growth maple that's was sitting in a makers wood crib for over 30 years that they got from a different maker when they retired, who probably had that piece of wood since the 70's. No points, no fancy rings, just a natural born killer...

IMG-20260401-152417-3.jpg


I am getting the steel joint and the two silver dollar rings in the sleeve engraved by a master engraver to add a bit of flair...
 
I think it has more to do with the wood than the inlays, points or rings. I have merry widow Viking from the 80's that hits nice as do my D series McDermotts but my best hitting cue is an old Titlist. I cant say its a great hitting cue because that is far too subjective, if people all felt the same about feedback there would never be a soft tip sold. Probably not a carbon shaft either, unless everyone uses only soft tips on them.
 
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Benelli said:
the more shit you do to the forearm with inlays and points and multiple materials the less of that feedback that makes it to your hand.
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If this includes veneers, Jacoby butts and shafts have problems:
  1. Its Earth series' butts are veneers.
  2. Its 140-piece Ultra Super Pro shaft are veneers:





Jacoby Element series specs.jpg
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